T

Какую косметику покупать в Китае 

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美女


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ТЕКСТ: Ксения Кузьмина

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Локальные бренды в основном делают акцент на многовековых традициях, китайской медицине, целительных свойствах растений-эндемиков, а маркетинговые стратегии заимствуют у международных компаний. Про главные бестселлеры рассказывает Ксения Кузьмина.

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Удивительная штука: пока во всем мире сложно найти что-то не произведенное в Китае, местные косметические бренды без Google-переводчика обнаружить не так-то просто. Китайские интернет-магазины вообще запутаны почти как даркнет. На локальных ресурсах (Taobao, Weibo, Tmall) продается все, в том числе и любопытная косметика. Но она вся в иероглифах и ориентирована только на местное население. Пришлось изучать англоязычные ресурсы, много тестировать и опрашивать консультантов в магазинах и местных женщин (и ставить их в тупик вопросами о китайских бьюти-марках).


Важно знать, что в Гонконге и Макао доминирует экспортная косметика, особенно в премиальных категориях. Локальным маркам не просто конкурировать, поскольку китайские покупательницы все чаще тянутся за люксом, который стойко ассоциируется с французскими и американскими брендами — Chanel, Lancôme, Estée Lauder. Или следуют за трендами маленького модного соседа — Южной Кореи — и за инновациями и технологиями из Японии. Лучшее из этого интересного микса — ниже.

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Все натуральное и органическое



“天然”和有机

Знаменитый многофункциональный гель можно использовать и для тела, и для волос, и после бритья, и для заживления ожогов. Создатели рекомендуют смешивать его с праймером (2:1 в пользу праймера), в сочетании с маслами использовать как ночную маску, а еще как уход для ногтей. Как активный пользователь Amazon в прошлом, не могу с восторгом не упомянуть умопомрачительные 4,5 звезды и более 1300 отзывов. Заслуженная народная любовь.



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Успокаивающий увлажняющий гель с алоэ Nature Republic Aloe Vera 92%


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Lu Ming Tang — тандем французской косметической экспертизы и китайских чайных традиций. Этот концентрат отличает впечатляющий строй антиоксидантов и редкий для таких средств видимый эффект: он помогает избавиться от темных кругов и припухлостей, ощутимо разглаживает мелкие морщины и освежает взгляд.



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Концентрат для глаз с чаем пуэр Lu Ming Tang Elixir de Vie Bio Shield Eye Concentrate


Крем для тела Khemist Holistic Body Crème



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Близость Австралии способствует не только развитию китайского шоу-бизнеса, но и распространению австралийских холистических марок. В креме Khemist натуральные и органические масла под предводительством беспроигрышного карите отлично увлажняют.



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Крем Egyptian magic


Сила шести натуральных компонентов: мед, прополис, пчелиная пыльца, воск, маточное молочко, оливковое масло. Отлично питает, заживляет и увлажняет.



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«Космецевтика»

的药妆品


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Обновляющая сыворотка с миндальной кислотой Dr Wu Daily Renewal Serum


Маркой, основанной звездным тайваньским дерматологом доктором Ву Йинг-Чином, в свое время заинтересовался LVMH и инвестировал в нее 25 миллионов долларов. У марки многочисленные награды, признание и стабильный рост продаж.

Миндальная кислота считается одной из самых щадящих среди AHA-кислот, поэтому подходит даже для чувствительной кожи. Dr Wu внедрили ее в средства домашнего ухода — в том числе в эту сыворотку. Первые секунды она слегка пощипывает, но в целом это мягкий пилинг, который способствует регенерации, предотвращает появление акне и борется с тусклым цветом лица. Главное, не забывать про защиту от солнца.

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Эссенция Acwell №3 Aquazene Effector


Шампунь от выпадения волос Sebamed Anti-Hairloss


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Еще один отличный вариант для чувствительной кожи. Эссенция без раздражающих ингредиентов интенсивно увлажняет и защищает от воздействия окружающей среды. Естественному защитному барьеру помогают центелла азиатская и комплекс восточных трав Puritox.



Помимо гинкго билоба в составе комплекс NHE. Он же гексил никотинат, который стимулирует кровообращение в коже головы, предотвращая выпадение волос и способствуя росту новых.




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Маски и патчи


面具和补丁


Маска с ампулой Mediheal/Line friends E.G.T. Timetox


Персонажи из стикер-пэка для корейского приложения Line волшебным образом получили невероятную популярность не только в Корее, но и в соседних странах. Мультяшные звери теперь украшают мерч от одежды для дома до кремов для рук. Один из лидеров масочного рынка, Mediheal, создал мимимишную капсульную коллекцию Line Friends, добавив немного фана эффективному продукту.


В нем содержится ЭФР (E.G.F., эпидермальный фактор роста) — белок, открытый нобелевским лауреатом Стэнли Коэном. Он ускоряет рост и деление эпителиальных клеток и в тандеме с мощным антиоксидантом должен делать кожу более упругой, плотной и подтянутой. ЭФР — частый ингредиент в составе корейской косметики, а в паре с гиалуроновой кислотой он усиливает ее эффективность.

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Ночная маска для губ Laneige Lip Sleeping Mask



SOS-средство для губ. Засыпаете с измученными сухостью, морозами и ветрами губами, просыпаетесь с мягкими и нежными. Карите, бета-глюкан и гиалуроновая кислота обволакивают поверхность губ, увлажняют, питают и закупоривают влагу.



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Ночная маска Dr.Jart+ Cicapair Night Re.Pair Mask



Заставить себя заснуть на спине — небольшая цена за подтянутую, более плотную и гладкую кожу утром. Ночная маска из линии Cicapair с центеллой азиатской (и снова здравствуйте!) — это без преувеличения чудо-средство, результат от воздействия которого виден после первого же применения. Определенно мастхэв, если вас беспокоит потеря упругости, раздражения, покраснения и мелкие высыпания.



Охлаждающие наклейки для ног Lion Kyusoku Jikan Cooling Leg Pad



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Спасение-бестселлер для любителей высоких каблуков, продолжительных прогулок и интенсивных тренировок. Союз лаванды, шалфея, розмарина, лимона и апельсина охлаждает уставшие ноги и помогает избавиться от синдрома «неуемных» ног, когда и утром усталость не проходит. Использовать после душа или перед сном, рекомендуют наклеить полоски на икры, ступни и оставить на ночь. Держатся они крепко, при этом особо не ощущаются.



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Средства, осветляющие и выравнивающие тон


减轻和提高基调

Осветляющий комплекс Jayjun Real Water brightening mask



Трехступенчатую систему Jayjun с минеральной водой корейского острова Чеджудо — очищающая пенка, эссенция и, собственно, маска — создала команда дерматологов, пластических хирургов и исследователей косметологии. После регулярного использования поверхность кожи существенно выравнивается и становится более упругой.



Лёгкость (кит.)


Тонирующий крем Dr.Jart+ V7 Toning Light




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Крем содержит семь витаминов и обещает мгновенный эффект: сияние, выравнивание тона, сокрытие недостатков и, как обычно, увлажнение. Особенно пригодится обладателям желтого подтона и отлично работает в качестве основы под BB-крем или кушон. Кроме сиюминутного результата уже дней через пять-семь можно заметить, что тон стал ровнее, кожа более гладкой и увлажненной.



Лёгкость (кит.)


Защита от вредного воздействия окружающей среды



防止受到环境的有害影响


Защита от пыли для российского человека причуда (ну и зря), а для китайского — жизненная необходимость из-за катастрофической экологии. Кожа при высокой концентрации пыли страдает, раздражается и быстрее стареет. Крем VPROVE должен защищать от воздействия мелких частиц пыли и осветлять тон. Комплекс POLLUSTOP® образует защитную пленку на поверхности кожи, блокируя три типа атмосферных загрязнителей (частицы углерода, тяжелых металлов и пыли), ультрафиолет и удерживая влагу в эпидермисе.



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Крем VPROVE Cream Expert Dust Defense Cream (SPF 30 PA++)




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Санскрины Dr.Jart+

Every Sun Day UV Sun Fluid




Азиатские блогеры неустанно повторяют, как важно защищать кожу от солнца ежедневно даже в городе, а не только на пляже. Средства для ежедневного использования, блокирующие солнечные лучи, занимают целые секции в магазинах. У Dr.Jart+ их несколько, причем с легкой текстурой и ароматом. Флюид Every Sun Day формирует барьер для защиты от пыли и должен подойти для кожи, склонной к акне.



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Бальзам для губ IPSA The Time Reset Lip Essence SPF 18 PA++




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Отличный бальзам для губ с защитой от солнца, увлажняет, усиливает их естественный оттенок, заживляет трещинки. Кстати, это еще одна марка, заслуживающая внимания за лаконичный дизайн, научный подход и эффективность.



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Корейская K-beauty


한국의 케이 - 뷰티

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Лошадь (кор.)

Бровь (кор.)

눈썹

Карандаш для бровей Cyber Colors Auto Eyebrow Pencil




Крем Guerisson 9 Complex Cream




Сложно отделаться от ассоциаций со всем известным «лошадиным» брендом, если глянуть на упаковку. Этот крем стал мегапопулярным в Азии за счет чудодейственного лошадиного масла, богатого питательными веществами, ненасыщенными жирными кислотами и витамином E. При соприкосновении с кожей маслоподобная текстура тает, разглаживая морщинки и питая. При всем уважении к китайской медицине и несмотря на гладкое и увлажненное лицо, лошадь, немым укором косящаяся в мою сторону, не позволяет мне спать спокойно ночами после использования крема. Как известно, лошадиное масло — субпродукт индустрии производства лошадиного мяса (специально для него лошадей не убивают, но все же).

Просто очень хороший инструмент 3 в 1 (щеточка, пудра и карандаш) для натуральных ровных бровей. Оттенки удачные, карандаш идеальной мягкости, в целом вещь удобная, технологичная и бюджетная.



Улитка (кор.)

Маска Tony Moly Intense Care Snail Hydro-Gel Mask



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Не знаю, беспокоят ли вас судьбы потеющих ради красоты улиток так же, как беспокоили сначала меня, но в разговоре о корейской косметике сложно не упомянуть хотя бы одно средство с улиточным муцином. Можно спать почти спокойно: улитки при производстве ингредиента не страдают, хотя нервничают, поскольку муцин вырабатывается как реакция на стресс. В улиточной слизи содержатся эластин, коллаген, гиалуроновая и гликолевая кислота, интенсивно питающие и увлажняющие кожу, предотвращающие акне и уменьшающие воспаления.



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Японская J-бьюти

和の美を


Масло камелии Oshimatsubaki Hair Care Oil



Камелия (яп.)

椿


Масло цубаки, или японской камелии, богато витаминами групп А, В и E и ненасыщенными жирными кислотами. Оно проникает в волосяной фолликул, питая волосы, минимизирует повреждения и делает их более гладкими и сияющими. За что очень любимо японскими женщинами и часто включается в состав средств ухода за волосами.



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Эссенция SK II Facial Treatment Essence



Японцы любят легкие текстуры; эссенции, тонеры, эмульсии, лосьоны — неотъемлемая часть ухода. Эссенция SK II по текстуре совершеннейшая — и дорогая — вода, отчего может вызвать недоверие. Но после использования кожа выглядит здоровой, сияющей и увлажненной. В долгосрочной перспективе обещает выровнять тон и избавить от мелких морщин. В основе — запатентованный элемент Pitera™, открытый учеными, заметившими удивительно молодые руки работников, создающих саке. Сделав предположение, что заслугой тому процесс ферментации, ученые в итоге открыли Pitera™, прозрачную жидкость, насыщенную витаминами, минералами, амино- и органическими кислотами. Если не готовы отдать около 200 американских долларов за 230 мл чудо-водички, попробуйте найти мини-эссенцию в магазинах вроде Sasa и Bonjour. С получением бесплатных пробников в Китае все сложно, зато их можно купить.



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Тонирующий крем Shiseido Synchro Skin Tinted Gel Cream



Увлажняющий лосьон Hada Labo Goku-jyun Clear Lotion



Новый тонирующий крем-гель Shiseido — это легчайшая текстура, едва уловимый аромат, защита кожи от ультрафиолета, сухости, оксидантов и воздействия окружающей среды. Придает естественное сияние, увлажняет. Отличный вариант для лета.



Звезда японских аптечных магазинов, завоевавший любовь в Китае. Лосьоны Hada Labo годами удерживают первую строку в рейтинге продаж. Хотя по текстуре это скорее не лосьон, а вода, оснащенная аж тремя видами гиалуроновой кислоты. Наносите похлопывающими движениями в качестве первой увлажняющей ступени после тщательного очищения, при необходимости сопровождая сывороткой и кремом.



Для многоступенчатой системы ухода


用于多阶段护理系统


Очищающий бальзам Banila Co Clean It Zero



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Абсолютный бестселлер и в Китае, и в Корее, откуда и приехал, один из самых трудоспособных бойцов на поле очищения. При контакте с кожей бальзам трансформируется в масло, тщательно удаляя даже самый стойкий макияж. Папайя помогает избавиться от ороговевших частиц кожи, а барбадосская вишня, богатая витамином C, должна выравнивать тон кожи.



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Очищающее масло Clarins Total Cleansing Oil



Тонер the SAEM Iceland



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Интенсивно увлажняющий тонер с исландскими минеральной водой и мхом. Можно наносить с помощью ватного диска или пальцами похлопывающими движениями. Чтобы усилить эффект и придать коже дополнительное влажное сияние, попробуйте наносить его слоями. Семь слоев я лично не осилила, но даже два-три действительно делают кожу заметно более сияющей..


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Пожалуй, менее легендарное, чем Shu Uemura (именно они ввели ритуал очищение маслом в широкие массы), но если хотите привезти то, чего в России нет, то обратите на него внимание. В российской линейке оно не представлено.


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Тинты, стики и блески для губ


色调棒和唇彩

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Двухцветный стик Laneige Two Tone Tint Lip Bar



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Легким движением руки создает градиентные увлажненные губы с умеренным блеском. Как человек, вечно тянущийся к фиолетовым, черным и синим помадам, я больше всего заинтересовалась оттенком 03 Tint Mint. Этот стик больше бальзам (отлично увлажняющий), чем тинт, но если хочется больше цвета, используйте пигментированную часть на всей поверхности губ.



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Тинт The SAEM Saemmul Jelly Candy Tint



Тинт Tony Moly Get It Tint



Однажды попробовав тинт, можно понять зашкаливающую популярность этой категории макияжа: нежная текстура, пигментированность, ненавязчивый аромат и вариативность нанесения (по центру для эффекта зацелованных губ или ровным слоем, растушевав подушечками пальцев). Все оттенки очень удачные, большой соблазн начать собирать коллекцию.



И пахнет, и выглядит как леденец, но кроме игривой упаковки предлагает насыщенные ягодные оттенки, блеск и увлажнение.



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Кушоны

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坐垫


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Тонирующий кушон HERA UV MIST CUSHION COVER SPF50+/PA+++



Тонирующий кушон It's Skin Tiger Cica



CC-кушон Cyber colors



У него устойчивое и довольно плотное покрытие. Кушон придает коже здоровое сияние, так называемый влажный финиш, увлажняя и выравнивая тон. Существует три варианта: ультраувлажняющий, матовый и классический.


Белый кушон в мятной упаковке. Экстракт центеллы азиатской, также известной как тигровая трава, должен успокаивать кожу и ускорять процесс регенерации, а каламиновая пудра — способствовать уменьшению отеков, снимать раздражение и устранять покраснения. Делает тон светлее, превращая даже самую тусклую кожу в сияющую. Можно использоваться в качестве праймера или самостоятельно, если хочется эффекта макияжа без макияжа.


Трехкомпонентный CC-кушон: розовый сегмент с розовой водой, бежевый с CC-кремом и белый с осветляющей эссенцией. Обещает ровный осветленный тон без видимых воспалений и увлажнение. Ровное покрытие создается в том числе за счет специально разработанного спонжа с 80 000 микроотверстиями. Лайфхак: можно варьировать оттенок, набирая на спонж средства из трех сегментов в разных пропорциях.



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Средства для глаз


眼部护理


Ультратонкая подводка Maybelline Hyper Sharp Eyeliner



Тушь Majolica Majorca Lash Expander



Король в царстве туши, японский бренд Majolica Majorca принадлежит Shiseido и ориентируется на юных девушек (видно по обилию кошечек и цветов). Пластиковая щеточка, похожая на расческу, разделяет и завивает ресницы и отлично подходит для любителей естественного образа.



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Можно хоть китайские иероглифы рисовать на лице, хоть классическую стрелку — практически волшебная палочка макияжной графики толщиной 0.01мм.


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Наклейки для создания двойного века BN Japan Perfect WT



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До приезда в Китай, я думала, что улиточные кремы – это странновато. Пока мне не открылся дивный новый мир азиатских средств для создания двойного века. Мастерству учатся с помощью бесчисленных Youtube-туториалов. Здесь, например, его показывает мегапопулярная в Азии визажистка и блогер Pony Syndrom. Любопытства ради можно повторить и дома.


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Советы для бьюти-шоппинга


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美容购物的秘诀


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Определитесь с отношением к cruelty-free




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Косметический рынок в континентальном Китае и в специальных регионах (SAR) различается, в том числе благодаря более гуманному законодательству о тестировании на животных в последних. Китай предпринимает некоторые шаги по смягчению строгих правил для косметических брендов, но пока все иностранные компании, производящие свою косметику вне Китая, для продажи на местном рынке обязаны тестировать ее на пушистых друзьях. В то время как некоторые мировые бренды сделали выбор в пользу прибыли, марки вроде Urban Decay, Kat von D, Lush, The Body Shop остаются верны принципам cruelty-free и представлены только в Гонконге и Макао. The Body Shop даже ведет кампанию в поддержку отмены жестоких правил, в том числе собирая подписи покупателей в своих магазинах. Так что, если вы принципиальный защитник животных, примите это к сведению. Даже бренды, которые тратят значительный процент бюджета на тестирования in-vitro и in-vivo, приняв решение выйти на континентальный рынок Китая, теряют статус cruelty-free, поскольку вынужденно участвуют в установленной местным законодательством жестокости.



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Изучите даже привычные бренды…




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Присмотритесь к всем известным маркам: линейка почти всегда заметно отличается от того, что представлено в России. Так что можно обнаружить кое-что новое и необычное среди привычного, вроде гидрофильного масла Clarins или ультратонких подводок Maybelline.



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…и фавориты знаменитостей





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Среди премиальных брендов обратите внимание на марки типа SK-II, Laneige, Hera, Sulwhasoo, Koh Gen Do, заслуженно популярные среди азиатского пользователя. BB-кушон Laneige рекомендуют Мишель Фан и Лиза Элдридж, последняя к тому же признавалась в любви к их ночной маске. Машель Фан, например, высоко оценила BB-кушон Laneige, тональные кушоны Sulwhasoo и Hera. Лиза Элдридж рекомендует тот же кушон Laneige и их ночную увлажняющую маску, а вместе с Кейт Босуорт и Джессикой Альбой — тональный крем Koh Gen Do Aqua Foundation за невесомость, ровный тон и увлажняющие свойства. Крисси Тейген использует маски и патчи SK II во время авиаперелетов, а Пэт Макграт и Кейт Бланшетт верны эссенции SK II.



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Помните про форматы магазинов






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Марки, продающиеся в собственных бутиках или в универмагах, часто есть в более бюджетных косметических магазинах (Sasa, Bonjour, Colormix) с большими и огромными скидками. Там часто царит вдохновенный хаос, так что за консультациями и расслабленной атмосферой лучше ходить в универмаги и бутики. За трендами хорошо охотиться в гонконгском Facesss.




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Напишите список






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Перед посещением бьюти-Мекк типа Sasa потратьте некоторое время на изучение брендов и хитов продаж, определитесь, что подойдет именно для вашей кожи, и составьте список. Иначе в магазине велик шанс впасть в состояние аффекта и очнуться на запруженной китайской улице с 25 улиточными масками и 5 кушонами (или потеряться в многообразии и неизвестности и купить что-то скучное и привычное). Можно запросто пропустить стоящие экспонаты, не разобравшись с иероглифами. В крайнем случае смотрите на стенды с бестселлерами или поговорите с консультантами. Чтобы не заблудиться в магазине, помните, что средства обычно расположены по категориям: маски, тонеры, кремы, BB-кремы, средства для тела и т. д.



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