T

Что изменилось в российских модных медиа в 2018-м?

Текст: Варя Баркалова


Уходящий год был непростым для многих глянцевых журналов — в том числе и в России: многие закрылись или сменили формат. Зато пустующая ниша бьюти-изданий начала заполняться. А телеграм-каналы, на наше счастье, пережили волну блокировок фактически без потерь.

Издательство ACMG лишилось почти всех своих изданий, а оставшиеся выходят в непонятном режиме.

{"points":[{"id":52,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":54,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":53,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

и Numero. Последний официально «перезапустился», чтобы выходить дважды в год в новом формате.

{"points":[{"id":52,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":54,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":53,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

Закрылась печатная версия журнала Forbes Woman 

{"points":[{"id":52,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":54,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":53,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

а потом – SNC

{"points":[{"id":52,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":54,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":53,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

У Forbes сменился владелец: от издательства ACMG журнал перешел бизнесмену Магомеду Мусаеву

{"points":[{"id":52,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":54,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":53,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

Николай Усков, который был уволен главой ACMG Александром Федотовым и оспаривал увольнение в суде,

{"points":[{"id":52,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":54,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":53,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

 теперь назначен редакционным директором Forbes.

{"points":[{"id":52,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":54,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":53,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

То же произошло и с российским L’Officiel: ACMG продали свою долю Владимиру Помукчинскому, который владел ей ранее (источники редакции сообщают, что сделка не состоялась). 

{"points":[{"id":52,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":54,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":53,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

Изначально сообщалось, что главредом останется Ксения Собчак, но вскоре она покинула свой пост в журнале.

{"points":[{"id":52,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":54,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":53,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

Впрочем, это не помешало развитию каналов: все они имеют стабильный прирост подписчиков. Так, аудитория флагмана фэшн-телеграма Good morning, Karl! за 2018 год выросла в два раза — с 16 до 32 тысяч подписчиков. А канал The Blueprint запустился в апреле — то есть за пару недель до начала блокировок — и набрал за 2018-й 7,5 тысячи подписчиков.

{"points":[{"id":52,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":54,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":53,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

В прошлом году мы писали про расцвет телеграм-каналов о моде. В 2018-м суд по просьбе Роскомнадзора постановил заблокировать приложение на территории России.

{"points":[{"id":52,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":54,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":53,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

У российского Vogue новый главный редактор — третий за 20 лет существования журнала.

{"points":[{"id":52,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":54,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":53,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

Викторию Давыдову на этом посту сменила Маша Федорова.

{"points":[{"id":52,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":54,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":53,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

Давыдова, в свою очередь, запустила собственное лайфстайл-издание Sport Chic.

{"points":[{"id":52,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":54,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":53,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

В Buro 24/7 тоже большие изменения.

{"points":[{"id":52,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":54,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":53,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

Соосновательница медиапроекта Мирослава Дума продала свою долю акций компании, издание перевезло штаб-квартиру в Лондон и назначило нового генерального директора.


{"points":[{"id":52,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":54,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":53,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

Раньше он был корпоративным изданием сети магазинов «Золотое яблоко», но теперь позиционирует себя как независимый

{"points":[{"id":52,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":54,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":53,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

Есть новое и в бьюти-журналах. Перезапустился журнал Flacon, который теперь делает команда Алены Долецкой. 

{"points":[{"id":52,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":54,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":53,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

Созданием журнала Л'Этуаль занялся издательский дом «Мамихлапинатана» и новая команда.

{"points":[{"id":52,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":54,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":53,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

Запустился журнал Scent о парфюмерии — его выпускает команда дистрибьютора нишевой косметики Esterk Lux Parfum.

{"points":[{"id":52,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":54,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":53,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

Лучшие материалы The Blueprint
в нашем канале на Яндекс.Дзен

{"width":1200,"column_width":120,"columns_n":10,"gutter":0,"line":40}
false
767
1300
false
true
{"mode":"page","transition_type":"slide","transition_direction":"horizontal","transition_look":"belt","slides_form":{}}
{"css":".editor {font-family: tautz; font-size: 16px; font-weight: 400; line-height: 21px;}"}