T

Что нужно знать о нью-йоркской парфюмерной марке Le Labo

иллюстрации: наташа джола

ТЕКСТ: настя полетаева

Узнаваемый аромат Santal 33 любят многие инсайдеры индустрии моды. Чем еще известны Le Labo — и где купить флаконы из коллекции City Exclusives.

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«Впервые я почувствовала аромат Santal 33, когда пришла на встречу к арт-директору и режиссеру фэшн-видео Жене Онегиной, — рассказывает визажист Катя Горелова. — Скажу честно, когда он наконец появился у меня, все остальные ароматы из моей коллекции ушли на второй план. Меня очень часто спрашивают, какой у меня парфюм, — чаще всего модели на съемках, конечно, но спрашивали и стилисты, и фотографы».


«Сейчас кажется даже странным, если от кого-то не пахнет Santal 33», — написал в твиттере Гриффин Фанк в 2015 году. Тогда нынешний дизайнер и арт-директор Apple работал в американском GQ и имел в виду своих коллег по цеху. Аромат Santal 33 марки Le Labo к тому моменту существовал всего четыре года и за это время успел заслужить репутацию главного аромата международной модной тусовки. И хотя у Le Labo было и есть немало других хитов, именно Santal 33 прославил бренд как марку для фэшн-инсайдеров с хорошим вкусом — это амплуа со временем только окрепло.


«Я парфюмерный консерватор, и раньше у меня было всего два аромата, которыми я пользовалась всю жизнь, — рассказала The Blueprint стилист Анна Сенина. — Santal 33 я впервые почувствовала на ком-то из коллег во время ювелирной выставки SIHH (закрытая выставка достижений часового и высокого ювелирного искусства, которая раз в год проходит в Женеве. — Прим. ред.). Он был такой необычный, и мне показалось, что к нему подходит слово art — сразу возникли ассоциации с современным искусством, с какими-то инсталляциями. Я не могла его выбросить из головы и написала о нем моему брату, который живет в Нью-Йорке — в Москве Le Labo тогда купить было нельзя. И так совпало, что как раз в тот день, когда я ему написала, у Le Labo была презентация, он пошел на нее и заказал мне этот аромат. Его смешали специально для меня, подписали бутылочку моим именем, и брат передал его в Москву. Конечно, это было для меня очень ценно. Этот аромат я часто слышу на коллегах, и он у меня стал прочно ассоциироваться с тусовкой фэшн-профессионалов». 

Santal 33 стал едва ли не самым популярным сувениром, который везли из путешествий представители российской модной индустрии, пока корнер марки не открылся в Москве: «Я попробовала Santal 33 около трех лет назад в Colette  (знаменитый парижский концептуальный магазин, открылся в 1997-м и закрылся в 2017 году. — Прим. ред.) — и сразу почувствовала, что могу жить с этим ароматом: он очень необычный и сексуальный. У меня сложные отношения с запахами: многие укачивают, а в этом мне нравится все. Нравится его дизайн, нравятся магазины Le Labo по всему миру — туда хочется возвращаться и наполнять опустевшую баночку Santal 33», — рассказала Яна Глумилина, соосновательница концепт-стора Leform.


И хотя, по словам основателей Le Labo, успех этого аромата стал сюрпризом для них самих, история его популярности выглядит как гениальная стратегия: что может быть для бренда выгоднее, чем обожание людей, создающих моду.




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Le Labo придумали европейцы Эдди Роски и Фабрис Пено в Нью-Йорке в 2006 году. К тому моменту они долго работали в отделе маркетинга Giorgio Armani Fragrances, который принадлежит концерну L’Oréal, и, по их же словам, им стало смертельно скучно в мире парфюмерных гигантов и корпораций. На свои собственные деньги они решили запустить парфюм-стартап, который как будто бы отстраивали по принципу «мы сделаем все, чтобы максимально отличаться от корпоративной системы». Le Labo переводится с французского как «лаборатория», и первый же магазин бренда в Нью-Йорке выглядел как обиталище аспиранта-химика: аскетичные стеклянные флаконы с почти аптечными этикетками, простые картонные коробки, деревянные полки, консультанты в белых халатах. «Нам обоим нравилось, когда можно было попасть на бэкстейдж. Оказаться на бэкстейдже во время фэшн-шоу — это, может быть, даже лучше, чем получить приглашение в первый ряд. И мы подумали: что если дать людям возможность заглянуть в парфюмерный бэкстейдж — делать что-то на их глазах», — рассказывал потом Роски об идее не продавать покупателям готовый парфюм, а смешивать его прямо в магазине и снабжать наклейкой с именем. Конечно, ход отчасти маркетинговый: при вас смешивают лишь парфюмерный концентрат, спирт и воду в рамках заранее придуманных формул. Но все же не совсем: приготовленный таким образом аромат получался максимально свежим, что важно для многих ингредиентов. И главное, от всего этого появлялось ощущение магии.



Роски и Пено не скрывали, что хотят быть максимально непохожими на большие бренды, создающие ароматы. Они заявили, что не будут давать классическую рекламу в медиа. На их сайте написано: «Мы считаем, что знаменитости должны покупать наш продукт за деньги». Они начали свою марку с 10 ароматов, и за 12 лет жизни Le Labo к ним прибавилось всего шесть новых (не считая постоянной коллекции City Exclusives), потому что ни Роски, ни Пено не верят в конвейерное производство парфюмов. Более того, для каждого аромата они ищут новый «нос» (хотя с некоторыми звездами вроде швейцарца Фрэнка Фоэкля работают по несколько раз) и сразу просят создателей не ограничивать свою фантазию, сколько бы ни стоили ингредиенты.



Довольно логично, что такая нигилистская позиция стала лучшей рекламой. Среди покупателей появились звезды вроде Кирстен Данст, Эммы Робертс и Алексы Чанг, а в ранг потребителей быстро перешли и сами журналисты: ароматы Le Labo можно уловить на самых модных вечеринках и за кулисами фэшн-шоу.

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City Exclusives — это единственная постоянная тематическая коллекция Le Labo. Сейчас в ней 11 ароматов, каждый посвящен одному из городов мира, и купить его можно только там. Фанаты марки долго страдали — как верно написал британский Vogue, «перед поездками на недели моды редакторы получали тонну просьб привезти аромат Vanille 44 из Парижа или Tubereuse 40 из Нью-Йорка, и им приходилось сбегать в магазины Le Labo в перерывах между показами».


Ароматы из коллекции City Exclusives появились и в России  — только до 30 сентября, эксклюзивно в Mercury (ЦУМ и ДЛТ).





Цена: 21420 руб. за 50 мл и 32660 руб. за 100 мл

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Даллас: Aldehyde 44

Аромат, что логично, альдегидный: его композиция построена вокруг абсолютов нарцисса, жасмина и туберозы, которые опираются на мускус с легким оттенком ванили.






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Чикаго: Baie Rose 26

Создатели говорят, что вдохновлялись джазом: к розовому перцу они придумали добавить мускус, кедр, гвоздику и абсолют грасской розы.


Сан-Франциско: Limette 37

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Свежий бергамот, теплые ноты жасмина и гвоздики, сексуальные ветивер, бобы тонка и мускус — парфюмер хотел передать впечатления от солнечного лета в Сан-Франциско.






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Лос-Анджелес: Musc 25

Аромат противоречевый: с одной стороны, альдегидный, почти стерильный, с другой — в нем есть чувственные ноты амбры, мускуса, ветивера и синтетического цибета.








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Нью-Йорк: Tubereuse 40

Tubereuse 40, конечно, посвящен туберозе, но сначала вы чувствуете бергамот, мандарин и флердоранж. И лишь потом ощущаете туберозу, смешанную с ароматами леса: мха, амбры, кедра и сандалового дерева. Кстати, Tubereuse 40 — один из любимых ароматов Кирстен Данст.






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Москва: Benjoin 19

Парфюмер Фрэнк Фоэкль хотел создать парфюмерный эквивалент встречи Анны Карениной и Вронского в романе Льва Толстого. В его прочтении эта знакомая всем со школы сцена пахнет кедром, мускусом и ладаном. Кстати, только этот аромат, в отличие от остальной серии, можно купить в Москве постоянно.




Амстердам: Mousse de Chene 30

Его называют неошипровым: он пахнет мхом и пачулями, а усиливают их древесные ноты. Еще в Mousse de Chene 30 есть кардамон и розовый перец. Это одновременно классический и необычный аромат.






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Лондон: Poivre 23

Poivre 23 доступен только в концентрации extrait de parfum, и в отличие от многих других ароматов Le Labo, напрямую иллюстрирует свое название — он пахнет бурбонским перцем, пряным и теплым.







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Париж: Vanille 44

Создатели считают, что Париж — не только город любви, но и город ванили. И создали для него аромат Vanille 44, который… пахнет не только и не столько ванилью: в нем очень сильны янтарные, древесные, очень чувственные ноты.







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Дубаи: Cuir 28

Cuir 28 — вариант для любителей тяжелых сложных ароматов: он пахнет кожей и деревом, и даже абсолют ванили обретает в нем немного животное звучание.







Токио: Gaiac 10

Древесно-мускусный (мускус в нем — четырех разных видов) аромат с нотами кедра и ладана.






Лучшие материалы The Blueprint в нашем канале на Яндекс.Дзен.

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