Fashion • hair tutorial

How to look like
a Gosha Rubchinskiy model

How to look like
a Gosha Rubchinskiy model

PHOTO:

GOSHA RUBCHINSKIY, SERGEY KOSTROMIN, SASHA MADEMUASELLE

TEXT: KATYA FEDOROVA

PHOTO:

GOSHA RUBCHINSKIY, SERGEY KOSTROMIN, SASHA MADEMUASELLE

TEXT: KATYA FEDOROVA

Want to look like the models from the latest Gosha Rubchinkiy show? Check out our exclusive backstage photos and learn from the stylists who worked on the original looks.

rus.

rus.

Last weeк the international fashion community took a break from Milan and Florence to travel to a small seaport of Kaliningrad, the capital of a Russian enclave between Poland and Lithuania to see the latest show of Gosha Rubchinkiy this time in collaboration with sportswear giant аdidas. The show will be the first in the series of events the two brands are planning together in anticipation of the 2018 Fifa World Cup that will take place in Russia. The models for the show were street cast all over the country by Gosha himself and Lumpen agency. To transform regular street kids into Rubchinkiy’s soccer army, Gosha (who used to be a hairdresser in his younger years) worked with stylists from Urban Design Team Sebastian Professional: Yaz Aysberg, Linda Benkhaldi and Maya Pak. Together they looked to popular men’s haircuts of the Soviet era and reinvented them into more modern versions. After the show they agreed to talk us through their working process.

Fig. 1 

Dynamic romanticism

This look was inspired by students after the Communist revolution of 1917. The models'' long, curly hair were cut with a blade. “A blade is a special kind of razor used in hairstyling. The texture you get with it has more plasticity, is easier to wear and looks lighter than the if the same cut would be done with scissors. The blade let us create a more defined curl. We also used the instrument to feather some of the curls to create a more relaxed, even messy look. It came out exactly as we wanted it” — says Yaz Aysberg, the creative director of Sebastian Professional in Russia. After the cut, the hair was parted in the middle and finishing creme Sublimate was applied to add even more definition to the curls.

Fig. 2

Boys band
highlights

Remember the boys bands of the 90’s with their ubiquitous highlighted bangs? To create looks reminiscent of that era the stylists blowdried the hair straight. It was the only style that required hair dye, as the fronts of some of the models hair were highlighted blond. Asymmetric fringes were styled to the side with deep side parts into “classic Westlife looks” as the stylists called them. To get them to stay in the desired shape they used the ultra-light Shaper Zero Gravity hairspray and Sublimate finishing cream.

Manly military style “landing strip”

Fig.3

Fig.3

Manly military style “landing strip”

A classic beloved by Soviet men and early 90-s bands like Depeche Mode and their Russian counterpart Technologiya. The flat shape is achieved by creating a stark contrast in hair length on the sides and in the back of the head, as well as perfect graphic lines on top. The stylists have used Drynamic+ dry shampoo to mat the hair down and make them more street.

Fig.4.1

Brutal sports fan

Fig. 4.2

Fig. 4.3

Fig. 4.4

This understated look that was created by using a machine ( for uniform length) and scissors (where more precise shaping was needed) was typical for Soviet men of the 30’s and 40’s and is still the most popular haircut among those who are looking to project aggressive manliness.

Fig.5.1

Cocky creative

Cocky creative

Fig.5.1

Fig. 5.2

рис. 5.2

Fig. 5.3

The stylists goal here was to create a manly look with longish curly hair. To achieve it they worked matifying Craft clay into the curls, brushed them back and fixed them with Texture maker texturizing spray and Shaper Zero Gravity hairspray.

Models

Fig.1
                            Nikita, Moscow

Fig.2
                            Maxim, Kaliningrad

Fig.3
                            Stepan, Moscow

Fig.4.1
                            Andrey, Moscow

Fig.4.2
                            Kirill, Kaliningrad

Fig.4.3–4.4
                            Ivan, Divnogorsk

Fig.5.1–5.2
                            Arseny, Velikie Luki

Fig.5.3
                            Lion, Moscow

Fig.1
       Nikita, Moscow

Fig.2
       Maxim, Kaliningrad

Fig.3
       Stepan, Moscow

Fig.4.1
       Andrey, Moscow

Fig.4.2
       Kirill, Kaliningrad

Fig.4.3–4.4
       Ivan, Divnogorsk

Fig.5.1–5.2
       Arseny, Velikie Luki

Fig.5.3
       Lion, Moscow

Hair styling products

Fig.1 Finishing cream
          Sublimate

рис.1 Финиш-крем
          Sublimate

Fig.2 Shaper Zero
           Gravity

рис.2 Shaper Zero
           Gravity

Fig.3 Dry shampoo
          Drynamic+

рис.3 Сухой шампунь
          Drynamic+

Fig.5.1–5.3 Texture
                     Maker Hair Spray

рис.5.1–5.3 Матирующая  
                      глина Craft Clay

Fig.5.1–5.3 
                      Craft Clay

hair:
HAIR STYLISTS Sebastian Professional Urban Design Team and HAIR STYLISTS Sebastian Professional ELENA PAVLOVA’S ART SALON

MAKEUP: 
МАС makeup artists