T

Как очищать кожу летом?

Текст:
мария чекалина

Летом кожа блестит больше. И часто это не тот волшебный здоровый блеск, который мы видим на фото моделей в инстаграме и на показах. Блеск из реальной жизни приводит к закупорке пор, черным точкам и желанию припудрить кожу перед важной встречей. Поэтому проведем небольшой ликбез по уходу за кожей летом.

Почему летом кожа становится жирнее и на ней появляется больше комедонов?

Всему виной жара и повышенная влажность. Наша кожа теряет влагу, и потовые железы начинают производить больше себума, чтобы защитить кожу от этой потери. Себум смешивается с отмершими клетками на поверхности кожи, к ним добавляется окружающая нас на улице пыль, и вся эта дружная тусовка забивается в наши поры и начинает кампанию по разведению бактерий (здравствуйте, прыщи!).

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Что в этой ситуации делать?

Во-первых, не переборщите с жесткими методами очищения. Не стоит каждый день делать скрабы, глиняные маски — ваша кожа станет еще суше и начнет выделять еще больше кожного сала. Подберите мягкие средства для очищения кожи, а пилинги и маски используйте два раза в неделю.



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Во-вторых, смените на летнее время основное увлажняющее средство: оно может быть с матирующим эффектом или облегченной текстуры (гель, флюид).


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Аквафлюид с соком алоэ «Гений увлажнения», 447 руб., L’Oréal Paris.



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Увлажняющее матирующее желе, 3385 руб., Kenzoki.

Матирующий гидрофлюид Pore Detox Perfecting Hydra-Matt Fluid, 2900 руб., Mavala.

Увлажняющий матирующий лосьон, 19 600 руб., La Mer.

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Каким средством лучше очищать каждый тип кожи?

Для сухой и чувствительной кожи подберите мягкие, не пенящиеся средства: бальзам, масло, молочко.




Нормальную кожу можно умывать теми средствами, которые вам комфортны по ощущениям.




Жирной коже подойдет гель, мусс или отшелушивающее средство для умывания (но никаких скрабов, если на лице высыпания).

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Очищающее масло для лица, 3200 руб., Patyka.

Очищающая пена для лица для чувствительной и сухой кожи Nature Solutions, 1549 руб., The Plant Base.

Пенящийся крем для жирной и комбинированной кожи с гидроксикислотами и энзимами, от 1800 руб., Lierac.

Очищающий гель для проблемной кожи с салициловой кислотой Blue Herbal, 1690 руб., Kiehl’s.

Очищающее молочко с экстрактом ромашки Camomille Cleansing Milk, около 2300 руб., Naturals by Yerba Vita.

Желе с микроводорослями, глубоко очищающее поры, Nutritious Micro-Algae, 2500 руб., Estée Lauder.

Надо ли утром умываться со средством для очищения?

«Если кожа жирная, проблемная, то рекомендуется применять для умывания специальные средства в виде пенок, гелей или муссов два раза в день (ночью работа сальных желез не прекращается, так что утром можно столкнуться с избытком жирности кожи), — комментирует Татьяна Попова, косметолог клиники эстетической медицины «Время красоты». — А при сухой и склонной к сухости коже для утреннего очищения будет достаточно применения мицеллярной воды»

Мицеллярная вода Sensibio, 1300 руб., Bioderma.

Мицеллярная вода для жирной проблемной кожи Effaclar Ultra, 1001 руб., La Roche-Posay.

А салфетки для снятия макияжа эффективны в очищении?

Салфетки для снятия макияжа не заменят вам полноценную процедуру очищения. Но они спасут вас в спортзале, в дороге или в офисе, когда нужно обновить макияж (то есть удалить его и нанести заново).

Салфетки для снятия макияжа essentials, 605 руб., Artistry.

Нужно ли как-то особо наносить средство для умывания?

Всего лишь рекомендация: при нанесении не просто размазывайте средство по лицу, а массируйте кожу пальцами — таким образом вы дополнительно усиливаете циркуляцию крови в коже и процесс ее обновления.

Что такое система двойного очищения?

«Один раз — хорошо, а дважды — надежнее и правильнее» — принцип двойного очищения. Эта система пришла к нам несколько лет назад из Азии. Для удаления макияжа и растворения скопившегося на коже себума используется гидрофильное масло, а уже после следует умывание пенкой или гелем, которые очищают поры от бактерий и грязи. Смысл в том, что, чем лучше вы очистите кожу, тем эффективнее будут работать ваши сыворотки и кремы. Если на лице останутся какие-либо загрязнения или частички неотшелушенной кожи, то все последующие средства ухода подействуют не на сто процентов, их работа становится просто бессмысленной. Если у вас сухая кожа, то замените гель для умывания (второй этап) мягким молочком.

Очищающая пена для лица для чувствительной и сухой кожи Nature Solutions, 1549 руб., The Plant Base.

Очищающая пена для лица для чувствительной и сухой кожи Nature Solutions, 1549 руб., The Plant Base.

Охлаждающая поросуживающая пенка для умывания Where is Pore?, 1690 руб., Caolin.

Черное масло для очищения кожи, 2900 руб., erborian.


Деликатное очищающее молочко для лица, 860 руб., Weleda

Что делать, если мне нравится очищающий эффект глиняных масок, но у меня сохнет от них кожа?

Выход есть: на время выдерживания маски накройте участки лица с глиняной маской пищевой пленкой. Это еще и усилит очищающий эффект. Объясняет косметолог клиники эстетической медицины «Время красоты» Татьяна Попова: «От применения пищевой пленки в данном случае мы получаем эффект окклюзии, благодаря чему используемые компоненты маски проникают глубже и лучше очищают кожу. При этом пищевая пленка не позволяет глиняной маске высохнуть, что в противном случае (без применения пищевой пленки) вызывает сухость кожи. Кроме того, данный прием снижает травматичность процедуры — глина при высыхании все же способна повредить особо чувствительную и тонкую кожу. В случае, когда применяется пищевая пленка, глиняная маска не высыхает и хорошо смывается по окончании процедуры».

Очищающая маска с экстрактами глины гассул и морских водорослей Skin Best Wonder Mud, 4010 руб., Biotherm.

Очищающая маска с активированным углем и глиной Supermud Clearing Treatment, 1700 руб., дорожный формат, GlamGlow.

Очищающая маска с зеленой глиной и зеленым чаем, 390 руб., Sephora.

Как быть, если после умывания от воды из-под крана кожу стягивает или она раздражена?



Если у вас слишком жесткая водопроводная вода, то установите фильтр для смягчения воды. Если нет такой возможности, то после умывания распылите на лицо термальную воду и только после этого промокните полотенцем или бумажной салфеткой.

Минерализирующая термальная вода, 730 руб., Vichy.

Термальная вода, 527 руб., Avène.

«Избавиться «раз и навсегда» от черных точек, к сожалению, не получится, — отвечает косметолог Татьяна Попова. — Дело в том, что кожное сало, скопление которого и образует черные точки, является своего рода защитой кожи от внешних факторов — и этот процесс остановить невозможно.




Но можно говорить о коррекции степени проявления черных точек: это регулярная чистка в центре косметологии и использование в домашнем уходе специальных средства для очищения (маски и пилинги)».

Можно ли на самом деле избавиться от черных точек?



Отшелушивающий крем двойного действия Ultra Dual Microfoliant, 4410 руб., Ultraceuticals.

Отшелушивающее средство с эффектом гликолевого пилинга L’Institut Youth Resurfacing Peel, 3800 руб., Darphin.

«Если говорить о летнем периоде, то чистки рекомендуется делать за две недели до отпуска и через десять дней после возвращения из поездки, — советует Татьяна Попова. — Говоря в целом о частоте проведения чисток, нужно ориентироваться на тип кожи. При сухой и чувствительной коже частые чистки не рекомендуются — на сегодняшний день существуют уходы, включающие энзимные пилинги, которые можно расценивать как качественное очищение. То есть можно выстроить программу ухода таким образом, чтобы перед проведением непосредственно чистки подготовить кожу, сделав пилинг или какой-либо уход, предусматривающий пилинг. Что касается жирной или проблемной кожи, то зачастую необходимо провести несколько процедур очищения в течение месяца — но не чаще одного раза в десять дней».

Как часто надо делать чистки в салоне? 

И можно ли их делать перед поездкой на море?


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