T
Безопасна ли домашняя мезотерапия?
Текст: Адэль Мифтахова
Косметология становится безопаснее и доступнее, и это логичным образом приводит к тому, что из кабинета косметолога процедуры перемещаются на дом. Приборы для световой LED-терапии практически вытеснили саму процедуру из клиник, потому что так же эффективны и при соблюдении простых правил не способны нанести вреда дома. Менее безопасная, но все более популярная процедура — домашний микронидлинг (или мезотерапия, то есть прокалывание кожи). Рассказываем о ней подробно.
Зачем вообще прокалывать кожу?
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В процессе микронидлинга кожу множество раз прокалывают очень тонкими иглами. После этого наносят косметику (важно, чтобы кожа в момент прокола была стерильна). Это, как предполагается, хорошо сказывается на ее качестве и помогает при некоторых состояниях.
Две основные цели микронидлинга — доставка ингредиентов в кожу и повышение выработки коллагена. Доставка ингредиентов упрощается за счет того, что иглы прокалывают роговой слой кожи, а он — главный барьер на пути проникновения веществ внутрь (и вредных, и полезных). Иглы создают в коже каналы, по которым витамины, пептиды и — чаще всего — гиалуроновая кислота, проникают лучше.
На выработку коллагена микронидлинг влияет за счет повреждения кожи. Когда игла прокалывает ее, кожа стремится заживить повреждение, выпуская различные факторы роста, которые еще и контролируют количество и качество коллагена.
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Какие есть приборы для микронидлинга?
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Они бывают разными: от валиков до патчей. Самый распространенный вариант — мезороллер. Это валик с большим количеством игл, который нужно прокатывать по коже.
Второй по популярности девайс, который все чаще появляется в инстаграмах косметологов, — дермапен. Это «ручка» с иглами, которую удобно использовать для мелких областей. Часто и в мезороллеры, и в дермапен встраивают дополнительные функции: LED-лампы или ультразвук для ухода и обеззараживания.
Мезороллер Cosmetic Gold Roll-CIT
Важно ли, какой длины иглы?
Они тоже бывают разными: от 0,2 до 2 мм (а для тела бывают еще длиннее). С первого взгляда может показаться, что, чем длиннее иглы, тем эффективнее будет процедура, но на деле это зависит от того, с какой целью используется микронидлинг.
Короткие иглы не влияют на выработку коллагена. Коллаген образуется на глубине 0,5–2 мм в зависимости от части лица или тела, поэтому короткие иглы до него не достают. А вот длинные — вполне. Зато короткие иглы помогают веществам лучше проникать в кожу. Поэтому их используют при алопеции, пигментации и для глубокого увлажнения.
Длинные иглы как раз влияют на выработку коллагена, и их используют для омоложения, против рубцов и растяжек. Они также помогают доставлять вещества до дермы.
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То есть мезотерапия дома — это круто?
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Нет. Микронидлинг — противоречивая процедура, и делать ее дома не стоит, только в кабинете косметолога. Мезотерапия на дому часто приводит к занесению инфекции, точечной пигментации, шрамам и прочим неприятным вещам. Об этом говорит «Американская ассоциация дерматологов». К тому же дома люди склонны вместе с мезороллером использовать обычную косметику, которая не предназначена для глубокой доставки, и поэтому сильно повышается риск аллергии и образования мелких гранулем (узелков) на коже.
Еще микронидлинг запрещено делать людям со склонностью к келоидным рубцам (и со склонностью к рубцеванию в принципе). Как и любой другой серьезный инструмент, в руках профессионала игла может стать хорошим подспорьем в решении самых разных проблем. А вот дома ею можно нанести себе вред. Иногда дерматологи и трихологи сами назначают пациентам дермароллеры для домашнего использования, но в этом случае они дают четкие инструкции, а иглы не бывают длиннее 0,2 мм.
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Мезоручка Skin Pen
Патчи с иглами тоже вредны?
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Относительно безопасные девайсы для домашнего микронидлинга все же существуют. Это патчи и мезороллеры с растворимыми иглами. Эти иглы сделаны из гиалуроновой кислоты, и после снятия патча они остаются в коже и растворяются. Патчи с микроиглами используют в медицине в первую очередь для вакцинации, и технология доставки веществ в этом случае работает так удачно, что в косметологии она просто не могла не появиться.
Компания Librederm еще несколько лет назад выпустила патчи с микроиглами для кожи под глазами, а совсем новый бренд Blom выпускает такие же голографические (их разработкой занимается Сергей Остриков из недавно закрывшегося магазина Pudra.ru). Недавно патчи выпустили Vichy, правда, до российского рынка они пока не добрались. Cам факт того, что подобное средство включил в линейку большой международный бренд, говорит о том, что они безопасны и редко приводят к неприятным последствиям.
Мезопатчи 111skin Meso Infusion
Overnight Micro Mask
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Чаще всего такие патчи предназначены для кожи вокруг глаз, но бывают для губ, носогубных складок и даже для прыщей (здесь на иглы нанесен ниацинамид для заживления). Мезороллеры с такими иглами делают редко и в основном в Корее.
С растворимыми иглами рисков намного меньше, потому что и патчи, и роллеры с ними используются всего один раз, и они изначально стерильны. Серьезного антивозрастного эффекта они не дадут, но увлажнят и разгладят мелкие морщинки на какое-то время. На иглы можно дополнительно нанести разные активные вещества для более серьезного эффекта, но пока производители массово этого не делают. Скорее всего, как раз из соображений безопасности.