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Стиль в фильме:
«Любовь на кончиках пальцев»
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Искусство машинописи, силуэты в стиле пятидесятых (и шестидесятых тоже) во французской комедии «Любовь на кончиках пальцев», создатели которой вдохновлялись сериалом «Безумцы».
Конец пятидесятых, Франция. Молодая провинциалка Роуз Памфиль (Дебора Франсуа) не желает мириться с выбором, который сделал за нее отец, и вместо свадьбы с завидным холостяком и лучшим инженером городка отправляется на поиски работы. В то время профессия личного секретаря — оплот мечты для юных дам: когда Роуз приходит на собеседование в страховую компанию, она оказывается в одном коридоре с еще как минимум c двадцатью женщинами. В итоге героиня поражает управляющего Луи (Ромен Дюрис) скоростью печати на машинке с помощью двух пальцев — и тот решает обучить девушку десятипальцевому методу и сделать ее победительницей конкурсов по стенографии. Эти соревнования — не выдумки сценаристов. Более того, они проводятся по сей день: рекорд в 955 ударов в минуту был установлен в 2003 году Хеленой Матушковой из Чехии, в то время как в фильме называется результат в 514 ударов.
Эстетика и общая стилистика фильма напоминают американскую классику: «Забавную мордашку», «Зуд седьмого года» и фильмы Хичкока. За наряды художницу по костюмам Шарлотт Давид даже номинировали на премию «Сезар»! Впрочем, тщательно продуманные образы — заслуга всей команды фильма. Режиссер Режис Руансар вдохновлялся сериалом «Безумцы» — и потому с должным вниманием подошел к деталям. А Дебора Франсуа тоже имела право голоса: в интервью изданию WWD она рассказала, что советовала, где сделать ленту на поясе для чулок тоньше, а где — добавить к юбке еще один пышный слой.
Пояса для чулок Дебора упомянула не случайно. Грамотный подбор исподнего (Франсуа носила белье, созданное именитым парижским домом Cadolle, в клиентках которого в свое время числились Уоллис Симпсон и Мата Хари) сыграл важную роль в создании костюмов: заостренные чашки, пояса и корсеты помогли скорректировать силуэт героини. При этом гардероб последней переполнен платьями, будто созданными Кристианом Диором — разве что в чуть более жизнерадостных, чем обычно позволял себе дизайнер, цветах: например, голубом и ярко-розовом. Любимый силуэт Роуз — открытые плечи (либо вырез-лодочка), пышная юбка, длина ниже колена. А еще кажется, что каждое платье так или иначе украшено бантом — незаметным или, напротив, привлекающим внимание.
Если Роуз носит яркие наряды и фасоны пятидесятых, другой важный женский персонаж, Мэри Тейлор (Беренис Бежо), щеголяет в элегантных образах уже из начала шестидесятых. Художник по костюмам хотела показать ее более прогрессивной женщиной, поэтому сшила для Мэри укороченные брюки, к которым подобрала топ с пестрым принтом и балетки. Кроме того, для Беренис выбрали ярко-рыжий парик, и актрисе так понравился новый образ, что сразу после съемок она и сама перекрасилась в рыжий.
Наконец, главный мужской персонаж, Луи, одевается в стиле героев американского актера Монтгомери Клифта («Одинокие сердца», «Дикая река»). Он носит сшитые на заказ деловые костюмы, белоснежные рубашки, широкие галстуки и никогда не снимает винтажные часы Jaeger-LeCoultre — стабильность, как известно, признак мастерства.
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