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Американская мода глазами гостей
Met Gala 2021

Фото:

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Пару часов назад в Нью-Йорке завершилось главное модное мероприятие даже не года, а последних двух лет (с учетом перерыва) — Met Gala 2021. Тема бала Института костюма Метрополитен-музея, как всегда, совпала с темой выставки, которая вот-вот откроется для посетителей — «В Америке: лексикон моды». А в приглашении дресс-код зашифровали двумя словами: «американская независимость». Но, по мнению Насти Сотник, гостям вечера стоило дать более четкие указания.

«Гуляя по залам, вы увидите 104 определения американской моды — каждому экспонату соответствуют определенные смыслы и эмоции», — говорит куратор Института костюма Эндрю Болтон всем, кто присоединился к его виртуальной экскурсии по выставке. При таком богатстве трактовок понятно, почему Met Gala 2021 остался без четкого дресс-кода. Каждый гость интерпретировал тему «В Америке: лексикон моды» по-своему, и в итоге мы получили почти те же 104 определения американской моды, только без кураторского отбора Эндрю Болтона. Оказалось, что лексикон многих гостей Met Gala почти не совпадает с лексиконом хозяев праздника, хотя некоторые пересечения все-таки нашлись.

Американская мода — это политика

Одним из первых запоминающихся выходов на красной (на самом деле в этот раз бежевой) дорожке Met Gala стал выход Кэролин Б. Малони — члена палаты представителей конгресса от 14-го избирательного округа Нью-Йорка (на территории которого и расположен Метрополитен). Она появилась в платье с длинным шлейфом, расшитым лозунгами «равные права для женщин» и YES ERA!. «В связи с долгожданной церемонией открытия выставки Института костюма Метрополитен-музея, посвященной американским дизайнерам, я призываю к ратификации ERA (поправки о равных правах 1972 года. — Прим. The Blueprint), чтобы мы достигли равенства раз и навсегда», — написала она в своем Instagram. Диалог с обществом через свой образ продолжила политик Александрия Окасио-Кортес в белом платье, на котором красными буквами были выписаны слова Tax the Rich («налоги на богатых»), а Кара Делевинь — в кастомизированном корсете Dior авторства Марии Грации Кьюри с лозунгом «Долой патриархат» (Peg the Patriarchi). Были и гости с более личными посланиями, например, футболистка Меган Рапино, которая держала в руках клатч с надписью в поддержку ЛГБТ+сообщества In Gay We Trust. И канадский актер Джон Леви, по просьбе которого Джонатан Андерсон вышил на кастомизированном наряде Loewe Канаду и США как две страны на карте мира, слившиеся в поцелуе.

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Кара Делевинь в Dior

Меган Рапино в Sergio Hudson

Американская мода — это вечная классика 

Такое определение в лексиконе моды для себя выбрала хозяйка вечера, председательница Met Gala Анна Винтур. Она вышла на красную дорожку в платье одного из брендов — синонимов американского гламура, Oscar de la Renta. Бренд еще не раз заявил о себе — громче всего на одной из распорядительниц бала этого года, Билли Айлиш. Певица появилась в телесно-розовом «платье принцессы» с огромным шлейфом (чтобы его расправить, потребовалось пять человек) в обмен на то, что Oscar de la Renta откажутся от использования меха. Были на Met Gala и другие классические американские марки, например, Carolina Herrera на Карли Клосс, Michael Kors на Реджине Кинг и Vera Wang — в том числе на еще одной распорядительнице бала, поэтессе Аманде Горман и, собственно, самой Вере Вонг.

Американская мода — это молодость

Но большинство гостей все же проследили связь между Анной Винтур как соавтором инициативы CFDA / A Common Thread по поддержке молодых американских дизайнеров и Анной Винтур как председателем Met Gala. А еще, видимо, сделали домашнее задание, узнав, что на выставке «В Америке: лексикон моды», кроме больших брендов из США, таких как Marc Jacobs или Ralph Lauren, — будут и молодые, и совсем юные марки. Так что на красной дорожке были наряды и тех, на кого обратил внимание Эндрю Болтон, и речь не только о его бойфренде Томе Брауне, в костюмах и платьях которого на Met Gala прибыл десант из десятка звезд, от Хэмиша Боулза и Джимми Фэллона до Мэйси Уильямс и Эм Джей Родригес. Так, мы увидели сразу два платья Christopher John Rogers (на Еве Чен и Джордан Александр, героиня которой, кстати, была лицом CJR по сюжету новой «Сплетницы»), Ким Петрас в Collina Strada, Джиллиан Андерсон в Gabriela Hearst, Наталию Брайант в Conner Ives, Лорд в Bode. Один из самых запоминающихся образов — платье Джозефа Альтузарры в паре с туфлями Rick Owens на певце Трое Сиване.

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Наталия Брайант в Conner Ives

Джордан Александр в Christopher John Rogers 

Кеке Палмер в Sergio Hudson

<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/CTyHJqSIfML/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" data-instgrm-version="13" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:540px; min-width:326px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"><div style="padding:16px;"> <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CTyHJqSIfML/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style=" background:#FFFFFF; line-height:0; padding:0 0; text-align:center; text-decoration:none; width:100%;" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noreferrer"> <div style=" display: flex; flex-direction: row; align-items: center;"> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 40px; margin-right: 14px; width: 40px;"></div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; 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Розалия в Rick Owens

Трой Сиван в Altuzzara

Дебби Харри Zac Posen

Американская мода — это американа

Джинсы, ковбойские мотивы, кантри-стиль в одежде — все это тоже большой пласт американской моды, точнее, американского стиля, растиражированного в поп-культуре. Таким определением, собираясь на Met Gala, вдохновились сразу несколько гостей. Южнокорейская певица CL выбрала джинсовый кейп Александра Вэнга, а Леон Бриджес нарядился в ковбойскую рубашку авторства Эмили Адамс Боде. Правда, в этой эстетике его перещеголяла Джей Ло — вот кто главный ковбой на Met Gala. Шляпа и платье Ralph Lauren, а на ногах — туфли из собственной линии певицы, которая поступит в продажу 28 сентября, о чем Лопес объявила в своем Instagram прямо в разгар вечера (потому что американская мода — это еще и бизнес). 

Американская мода — это старый Голливуд

Некоторые гости копнули глубже в поп-культуру и отталкивались от того, что впервые американская мода громко прогремела в мире благодаря костюмам для голливудских фильмов. Авторские наряды Чарльза Джеймса, образы, которые придумала легендарная Эдит Хэд, — не только американцы, но и все дизайнеры мира до сих пор вдохновляются ими. То же самое случилось и на Met Gala: некоторые гости почти буквально повторили узнаваемые голливудские образы. Эмили Блант в Miu Miu вдохновилась Хеди Ламарр из «Девушек Зигфилда», Яра Шахиди в Dior — Жозефин Бейкер, Кендалл Дженнер в Givenchy — Одри Хепберн в «Моей прекрасной леди», Джемма Чан в Prabal Gurung — Анной Мэй Вонг, первой азиатской актрисой, добившейся успеха в Голливуде. А Megan Thee Stallion, три дня назад смотревшая показ Coach из первого ряда, сегодня примерила платье бренда и всем рассказала, что при работе над образом вдохновлялась эпохой золотого Голливуда.

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Яра Шахиди в Dior

Джемма Чан в Prabal Gurung

Американская мода — это Met Gala

Первый Met Gala состоялся в 1948 году, так что бал Института костюма сам по себе — важнейшая часть американской моды. Некоторые выдающиеся моменты из его истории вспомнили гости Met Gala 2021. Кайя Гербер в Oscar de la Renta почти дословно повторила один из самых известных выходов Бьянки Джаггер на Met Gala в 1981-м. Наоми Осака в Louis Vuitton будто вспомнила тему Met Gala 2015 года, посвященного влиянию азиатской культуры на западные бренды. А Хантер Шафер и Граймс — бал 2018 года, посвященный связи моды и религии. Иман в золотом Harris Reed, Ирина Шейк в усыпанном цветами Moschino и Лили Рейнхарт в аналогичном Christian Siriano больше соответствовали теме «кэмп». Как и Lil Nas X, который в своем выходе повторил подвиг Леди Гаги, сменившей на красной дорожке сразу четыре наряда. Правда, в случае с Lil Nas X нарядов было три, каждый тоже отсылал к определенным темам Met Gala прошлых лет: под «королевской» накидкой (прямо как Guo Pei Рианны в 2015-м) были рыцарские доспехи (как когда звезды интерпретировали в нарядах католицизм), а под ними — ода кэмпу в виде обтягивающего комбинезона. Все образы — Atelier Versace.

Американская мода — это европейская мода на звездах Америки

Нельзя исключать и то, что модными многие вещи и бренды сегодня делают звезды поп-культуры, которых США продолжают выпускать в промышленных масштабах. Мы помним, как выходы Ким Кардашьян и Карди Би пробудили всеобщий интерес к Mugler, креативный директор Valentino Пьерпаоло Пиччоли влюбился в Леди Гагу, а Джаред Лето стал лучшим другом Gucci. Так что на моду в Америке в том числе влияют и европейские бренды: в одних случаях это продиктовано контрактами, а где-то личными привязанностями, как у Кэри Маллиган с кутюрным Valentino или Фаррелла Уильямса, который вспомнил своего покойного друга и наставника Карла Лагерфельда, появившись вместе с супругой Хелен в парных архивных нарядах Chanel времен Карла. Правда, обилие европейских брендов все же может сыграть злую шутку с американской модой — и они снова ее затмят. Прошлой ночью это почти случилось, когда Balenciaga, соперничающие по частоте выходов с Thom Browne, вырвались вперед на плечах самой долгожданной гостьи вечера: Рианна появилась в кутюрном платье-халате авторства Демны Гвасалии. Но вишенка на торте Met Gala была все же из Америки — ее поставил ASAP Rocky, который привлек всеобщее внимание «лоскутным одеялом» лос-анджелесского бренда ERL.

Читайте главные новости из мира моды, красоты и культуры в телеграм-канале
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