T

Стиль в фильме «Матрица»

ТЕКСТ: Анна Баштовая

Как художница по костюмам Ким Барретт разработала стиль культовой трилогии.

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24 марта 1999 года на мировые экраны вышел фильм «Матрица», практически мгновенно став культовой картиной нового поколения и повлияв на множество областей, от индустрии кино до индустрии моды. Спустя буквально полгода после выхода картины знаменитый замедленный эффект bullet time был использован уже в десятках других фильмов, а на подиумах и красных ковровых дорожках массово появились кожаные плащи и узкие солнцезащитные очки. Как разрабатывался единый стиль «Матрицы», с какими нюансами и сложностями пришлось столкнуться создателям и почему мода снова возвращается к этому фильму — разбираем в канун 19-летия легендарного блокбастера.

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Затем Барретт вместе с командой приступила к изготовлению многочисленных версий одних и тех же костюмов, чтобы использовать их для разных задач в разных сценах. Для одного и того же костюма могло использоваться до трех видов ткани. Так, дубль-костюмы, сделанные из стретчевых материалов, давали актерам большую свободу движения в сценах драк и погонь, а костюмы из более плотных и дорогих тканей идеально работали на крупных планах.






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Несмотря на кажущуюся простоту и однотипность костюмов с ними было связано множество трудностей. Например, вскоре после начала съемок оператор-постановщик Билл Поуп обнаружил, что зеркальные очки актеров отражают всю съемочную группу. «Нам приходилось одеваться во все белое, чтобы не отражаться в очках. Или, наоборот, во все черное, когда действие происходило в темном помещении». Проблема с очками была далеко не единственной. Много трудностей было связано с техническими вещами: как спрятать под одеждой тросы для подъемов, или вентилятор для раздува ткани, или пластину для полетов. Такая пластина из стеклопластика со множеством шнуровок была спрятана под костюмом у каждого актера, для того чтобы он мог держать тело прямо во время сцен полета по воздуху.







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НЕО

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Один из главных костюмов «Матрицы», повлиявших в дальнейшем как на фэшн-дизайнеров, так и на уличную моду начала нулевых, — это, безусловно, пальто Нео. Правда, большинство подражателей и фанатов ошибочно считают это пальто кожаным, что в корне не верно. По словам Ким Барретт, дешевую шерстяную (!) ткань для пальто она приобрела в Нью-Йорке по три доллара за метр: «Это была идеальная ткань, идеально подходящая под задачу сделать полы пальто плотными, но развевающимися. Самое смешное, что люди постоянно говорят мне о кожаном пальто Нео, но на самом деле у него никогда не было кожаного пальто!» За несколько месяцев до начала съемок Барретт вместе с сестрами Вачовски сделала множество тестов разнообразных тканей в воздухе и определила, какого веса и какой плотности должна быть ткань, чтобы правильно развеваться в сценах драк и погонь, именно поэтому художник по костюмам остановила в итоге свой выбор на легкой, но плотной шерстяной ткани.



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Влияние «Матрицы» на индустрию моды началось практически сразу после выхода картины. Первым дизайнером, вдохновившимся фильмом, стал Джон Гальяно, посвятивший картине коллекцию Dior Haute Couture 1999. Второй стала Вера Вонг с коллекцией осень–зима 2000, в которой были представлены многочисленные пальто в стиле Нео и Морфеуса. Не обошло влияние «Матрицы» и красные ковровые дорожки, в 2000 году Джанет Джексон появилась в образе Тринити на MTV Movie Awards.





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Очевидное возвращение «Матрицы» на подиумы и в модные гардеробы началось с показов Balenciaga и Vetements осень–зима 2017, когда Демна Гвасалия вывел на подиумы удлиненные кожаные пальто и объемные тренчи в паре с узкими солнцезащитными очками. Похожие кожаные силуэты появились в том же сезоне у Balmain и Alexander McQueen. Год спустя свою коллекцию осень–зима 2018 посвятил «Матрице» Александр Вэнг, а Вирджил Абло начал продавать свои кожаные платья в комплекте с узкими очками Off-White. Главные трендсеттеры нового поколения Кендалл Дженнер, Ким Кардашьян, Белла и Джиджи Хадид все чаще появляются в образах а-ля Тринити, чем немало удивляют Ким Барретт. По словам художника по костюмам, она всего лишь пыталась предугадать моду будущего и по-настоящему шокирована тем, что ей это с такой точностью удалось.


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balenciaga, осень–зима 2017 

АЛЕКСАНДР ВЭНГ, осень–зима 2018 

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