T
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Самые яркие костюмы «Звездных войн»

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Из чего сделали бикини принцессы Леи, как из противогаза получилась маска Дарта Вейдера и сколько времени заняла работа над тронной мантией Амидалы — рассказываем, как появились самые выдающиеся костюмы героев «Звездных войн».

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Текст:
Анна Баштовая

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14 декабря стартует 8-я часть самой знаменитой саги на Земле, а то и во всей Галактике. Ровно 40 лет человечество делится на две категории: тех, кто смотрел «Звёздные войны» десятки раз, и тех, кто принципиально их не смотрит. Но надо признать, даже последние знают, кто такой Мастер Йода, как дышит Дарт Вейдер и во что одета Принцесса Лея. Мы составили путеводитель по самым выдающимся костюмам и верим, что первым это поможет посмотреть на любимых героев другими глазами, а вторым — заинтересоваться знаменитой Вселенной.

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СВЕТЛАЯ СТОРОНА



Люк Скайуокер

Легендарный рыцарь-джедай, ученик магистра Йоды, брат принцессы Леи и сын Дарта Вейдера.

Персонаж Люка Скайуокера претерпел множество трансформаций, прежде чем стать тем, кого мы в итоге знаем. В набросках Джорджа Лукаса он сначала был девушкой, затем гномом, затем 60-летним генералом и лишь в четвертой версии сценария стал юным падаваном.



Костюм Люка, как и весь внешний облик джедаев, является прямой отсылкой к одежде для восточных единоборств. Одним из основных референсов Джорджа Лукаса при создании саги послужила картина Акиры Куросавы 1954 года «Семь самураев», откуда режиссер почерпнул не только идеи кодекса джедаев и битвы на мечах, но и коричневые плащи и поясные мантии. Кроме того, в костюмах джедаев присутствуют элементы облачения буддийских монахов разных школ.




Являясь выходцем с солнечной планеты Татуин и сражаясь на Светлой стороне Силы, Люк всегда одет во все светлое с небольшими вкраплениями натуральных земляных и песочных оттенков.





ПРИНЦЕССА ЛЕЯ

Сенатор Галактического Сената, сестра-близнец Люка Скайуокера, дочь Дарта Вейдера, мать Кайло Рена.



Джордж Лукас поставил перед художником по костюмам Джоном Молло задачу сделать наряд принцессы «простым, но вечным». «Я очень тщательно старался избежать любого намека на моду, и поэтому мы сделали принцессу Лею очень простой. Никакого дизайна, никакого фэшена, ничего», — вспоминает режиссер. Таким образом появилось знаменитое просторное белое платье в пол с широкими рукавами. Несмотря на кажущуюся простоту и даже асексуальность платья, в этом наряде присутствовал важный нюанс — по задумке режиссера, под ним не должно было быть никакого нижнего белья, а грудь актрисы «маскировали» с помощью специальной телесной ленты. В итоге в одной из сцен из-за неправильно поставленного света через одежду принцессы стала отчетливо видна ее грудь. Актриса Кэрри Фишер, исполнившая роль Леи, впоследствии отшучивалась: «Насколько мне известно, в космосе не носят нижнего белья».





Знаменитое золотое бикини принцессы было разработано дизайнером Эджи Жерар Роджерс под впечатлением от картины фэнтези-художника Фрэнка Фразетты «Египетская королева» 1969 года. Как и в случае с просвечивающим платьем, здесь не обошлось без казусов. Фишер вспоминала: «Самой большой проблемой металлического бикини было то, что оно было не металлическим, а из какого-то твердого пластика, который не держался на коже. Моей молодой, почти популярной злосчастной коже. Поэтому, когда я расслабленно полулежала на гигантском пузе Джаббы, низ моего твердого пластикового бикини… в общем, он имел склонность выставлять мое (теперь не такое уж интимное) интимное место на всеобщее обозрение. С того места, где стоял Боба Фетт, под пластиковым низом моего бикини он мог видеть все до самой Флориды». Пришлось срочно делать резиновый вариант бикини, но носила его уже не Фишер, а дублерша принцессы Леи Трейси Эддон. Все мучения Фишер оказались в итоге не напрасны, золотое бикини в одночасье превратило ее в секс-символ. Например, в сериале «Друзья» в эпизоде про типичные мужские фантазии в аналогичном наряде появляется Дженнифер Энистон. В 2015 году оригинальное бикини было продано на аукционе за 96 тысяч долларов.





ХАН соло

Герой, бунтарь и лидер Альянса повстанцев. Друг Чубакки и Люка Скайуокера, возлюбленный принцессы Леи и отец Кайло Рена.




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В костюме Хана Соло отчетливо прослеживается любовь Джорджа Лукаса к американским вестернам и намек на будущего Индиану Джонса. Узкие брюки, расстегнутая рубашка, жилет со множеством карманов, высокие сапоги, тяжелый пояс с кожаной кобурой, бластер вместо револьвера — можно сказать, что Харрисон Форд начал носить костюм Индианы Джонса за четыре года до создания серии фильмов об Индиане. Чтобы как-то осовременить очевидно олдскульный костюм, дизайнер Джон Молло добавил на брюки Хана Соло цветные лампасы и, как говорят, исключил ковбойскую шляпу.






<blockquote class="twitter-tweet" data-lang="ru"><p lang="en" dir="ltr">White girls dress like Han Solo now <a href="http://t.co/kplWxTu7K7" rel="nofollow">pic.twitter.com/kplWxTu7K7</a></p>— Darth Vader (@DepressedDarth) <a href="https://twitter.com/DepressedDarth/status/489791180847464449?ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw" rel="nofollow">17 июля 2014 г.</a></blockquote> <script async src="https://platform.twitter.com/widgets.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

МАСТЕР ЙОДА

Гранд-мастер Совета джедаев, учитель джедаев более 800 лет, наставник Люка Скайуокера.





По задумке Джорджа Лукаса, Йода изначально должен был казаться второстепенным незначительным персонажем, «похожим на лягушку, на которую никто никогда не обратит внимание». Именно поэтому куклу с самого начала разрабатывали как небольшое зелёное существо. Автором Йоды считается визажист оригинальной трилогии Стюарт Фриборн. Для моделирования куклы Йоды Фриборн скрестил два лица: взял за основу свой облик, который всегда казался ему забавным, и добавил к нему характерные морщины Альберта Эйнштейна, чтобы придать мудрости.







Управляли Йодой четыре человека: один отвечал за уши, второй за глаза, третий за рот, четвёртый за руки. Кроме того, перед каждым дублем было множество репетиций и тестов, таким образом фигура Йоды стала чуть ли не самой сложной задачей в ранних частях «Звёздных войн».








Последняя кукла Йоды была создана для шестого эпизода в 1986 году, в следующих более современных эпизодах внешность Мастера создавалась уже при помощи компьютерной графики.









ПАДМЕ АМИДАЛА

Королева планеты Набу, возлюбленная Энакина Скайуокера, мать Люка и Леи.






По дворцовым правилам Амидала обязана носить сложные наряды, громоздкие прически и ритуальный грим, что позволяет скрыть истинное лицо королевы и заменить ее во время опасных мероприятий одной из служанок. За костюмы Падме отвечала дизайнер Триша Биггар. Работа над костюмами началась за три года до съемок, Биггар путешествовала по всему миру, вдохновляясь традиционными костюмами разных стран и собирая красивые редкие ткани. Так в гардеробе Амидалы появились костюмы из шелка, бархата, льняных смесей и винтажных кружев, соединяющие в себе элементы традиционных нарядов Японии, Бирмы, Индонезии, Непала, Китая, Тибета и России.








На создание одного из самых знаменитых костюмов Падме — красной тронной мантии, вдохновленной стилем китайского императорского двора, ушло восемь недель. Нижняя часть костюма была сделана из множества узких полосок ткани, прикрепленных к кольцам кринолина, что сохраняло форму жесткой и поддерживало вес ткани, позволяя ей скользить по полу. Воротник и рукава были украшены искусственным мехом и золотой вышивкой. Подол мантии был отделан элементами из акриловой смолы, покрытой французской эмалью.










Для свадебного наряда художник по костюмам Триша Биггар решила использовать чудом доставшееся ей старинное покрывало из пожелтевших кружев. Но оказалось, что для полноценного выполнения задуманного покрывала не хватает. В итоге полотно было разобрано на элементы, которые затем были нашиты на выкроенные для платья куски тюля. Для дополнительного орнамента было сплетено 300 метров шелкового шнура в той же цветовой гамме. Головной убор Амидалы был создан из мальтийских кружев и украшен подлинными эдвардианскими восковыми цветами и розетками из жемчуга.











ТЁМНАЯ СТОРОНА



ДАРТ вейдер

Он же Энакин Скайуокер. Темный лорд ситхов, могущественный джедай, самый известный злодей не только во вселенной «Звездных войн», но и в принципе за всю историю кино.







Костюм Дарта Вейдера разработал в 1975 году дизайнер Ральф Маккуорри. «По описаниям Лукаса, Вейдер был большой темной фигурой в плаще, — рассказывает Ральф. — Он должен был носить железную шляпу, как у рыбаков — с длинными спускающимися вниз полями, и маску. В одной из сцен фильма ему предстояло выпрыгнуть из «Звездного разрушителя» и приземлиться на корабль, который они догоняли, прожечь дыру в корпусе и найти жертву. Соответственно, он должен был выдержать вакуум и низкие космические температуры, поэтому я решил, что у него должна быть маска для того, чтобы дышать в безвоздушном пространстве». После разработки эскизов костюма Ральфом Маккуорри за дело взялся сам костюмер оригинальной трилогии Джон Молло. «Мы наняли модель для примерок и прошлись по разным костюмерным студии «Эльстри», собирая то, что нам казалось пригодным для создания костюмов, — рассказывает он. — Например, для Вейдера мы нашли кожаный мотоциклетный костюм, нацистскую каску, противогаз и монашеский плащ из отдела Средневековья. Потом надели все это на модель, сняли на «Полароид» и показали Лукасу». Маску, устройство на груди, наплечники и остальную броню создал скульптор Брайан Мюра.









Для того чтобы все части костюма подходили актеру, были сделаны слепки тела Дэвида Прауса, который был взят на роль Вейдера. В то время Праус был известным культуристом с собственной сетью спортзалов тяжелой атлетики, поэтому его довольно часто приглашали на роль большого и сильного парня. Как гласит легенда, Лукас предложил Праусу выбрать между Чубаккой и Вейдером, выбор был очевидным (роль Чубакки в итоге отошла обычному больничному санитару Питеру Мейхью ростом 2 метра 18 сантиметров).










ШТУРМОВИКИ

Солдаты Империи, у которых нет настоящих имен, лишь порядковые номера.








Костюм штурмовика, как и Дарта Вейдера, изначально был придуман и нарисован дизайнером Ральфом Маккуорри в 1975 году. «Жуткие белые космические доспехи», как описывал их Лукас, были белыми неспроста: с точки зрения режиссера, зло выглядит более устрашающим, когда прикрывается благородным светлым цветом. Затем художник по костюмам Джон Молло, основываясь на скетчах Маккуорри, изготовил из вакуумного пластика шлемы и доспехи штурмовиков. Все остальные части экипировки — перчатки, ремни, сапоги — были самыми обыкновенными повседневными вещами, выкрашенными в белый цвет. «Как ни странно, — признавался Молло, — все сработало».










ДАРТ мол

Могучий воин-ситх, враг джедаев и Ордена.










Образ Дарта Мола был создан одним из ведущих концептуальных дизайнеров в киноиндустрии Иеном Маккейгом. «Джордж Лукас описывал Дарта Мола как существо из вашего самого ужасного кошмара. Ну что ж… Я нарисовал Джорджу мой самый ужасный кошмар. Если бы вам удалось сейчас сорвать всю кожу со своего лица, то вид обнаженных мышц был бы точной копией образа Дарта Мола того времени. Идея обнаженной плоти лица, с которого сняли кожу, казалась мне красивой и пугающей одновременно. Помимо этого, на теле у большинства опасных животных имеются отметины: змеи, тигры, осы — у всех у них на желтом или оранжевом фоне нанесены черные полосы, как предупреждение для остальных животных держаться подальше. Беззащитные животные зачастую даже имитируют эту окраску, чтобы отпугнуть врагов». Грим — самая запоминающаяся часть образа Мола. Рожки на голове на самом деле являются пучками настоящих волос на выбритой голове актёра, а красно-жёлтые линзы воплотили идею создателей о никогда не моргающем злодее.











КАЙЛО РЕН

Сын Хана Соло и принцессы Леи, один из лидеров Первого Ордена, бывший ученик Люка Скайуокера, перешедший на Тёмную сторону Силы.











Так как Кайло Рен одержим образом своего деда, Дарта Вейдера, и движим идеей закончить то, что начал Вейдер, в его костюме присутствуют элементы, напрямую отсылающие к костюму Тёмного лорда. Как рассказывает художник по костюмам новых частей саги, Майкл Каплан, он с самого начала работал с концепцией тёмного многослойного костюма и капюшона, которые в итоге были изготовлены из хлопковой материи, покрытой лаком. «Я хотел, чтобы он давал отблеск, оживляющий его в сценах с мрачной атмосферой — я знал, что такие сцены будут».












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Наибольшую сложность представляли шлем и лицевая часть маски, при создании которых было отвергнуто множество вариантов концепции и дизайна. «Это невероятно трудно — придумать маску, которая не выглядит как производная от какого-то уже существующего супергероя и не вызывает ассоциаций с другим культовым персонажем», — делился Каплан.













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