19 ФЕВРАЛЯ 2020

Алессандро Микеле показал закулисье Gucci на показе осень-зима 2020

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margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/B8wGv-IIrvg/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none;" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Публикация от Italo Pantano (@italopantano)</a> <time style=" font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px;" datetime="2020-02-19T14:22:25+00:00">19 Фев 2020 в 6:22 PST</time></p></div></blockquote> <script async src="//www.instagram.com/embed.js"></script>

На Неделе моды в Милане завершился показ Gucci осень-зима 2020. Шоу проходило в пространстве Gucci Hub. Все началось с того, что гостей просили пройти через бэкстейдж-зону, где визажисты готовили моделей. Там их лично встречал креативный директор Gucci Алессандро Микеле. На этом знакомство с закулисьем бренда не закончилось. Сценография шоу была представлена в виде круглого подиума, вращающегося под ритм метронома. Он был заставлен рейлами с одеждой и аксессуарами — зрители видели, как портные и стилисты вносят последние штрихи в образы для шоу. Подготовленные модели заходили в специальные рамы, а после спускались в зал. В финале шоу их места заняли все, кто готовил показ, перед тем как на подиуме появился и сам Микеле. «Я решил показать, что скрывается за кулисами. Пусть из тени выйдет чудо и затаится дыхание», — объяснил концепцию показа сам дизайнер в своих рукописных заметках, которые он сделал перед шоу.

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margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/B8wIyCloaAe/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none;" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Публикация от Laurent dombrowicz (@laurentdombrowicz)</a> <time style=" font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px;" datetime="2020-02-19T14:41:29+00:00">19 Фев 2020 в 6:41 PST</time></p></div></blockquote> <script async src="//www.instagram.com/embed.js"></script>

Что касается самих вещей, в женской коллекции осень-зима 2020 Микеле сделал ставку на социальные и гендерные темы, включая религию и неравенство по отношению к разным сообществам. Модели появлялись в вещах-отсылках к самым громким заявлениям и знаковым элементам, которые дизайнер делал на подиуме за время пяти лет работы креативным директором Gucci. Среди них — парики с драгоценными камнями, эльфийские уши, костюмы и платья, размывающие границы между мужским и женским, а также новая версия платья с изображением женских репродуктивных органов. Оно напоминает о круизной коллекции 2020 года, которая стала реакцией Микеле на практически полный запрет абортов в Алабаме: тогда дизайнер создал образы-манифесты, провозглашающие неприкосновенность права женщин на личный выбор.

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