03 МАРТА 2020

Первые появления Карла Лагерфельда и Кристиана Лакруа в Vogue — в новой коллекции Chanel

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На Неделе моды в Париже завершился показ Chanel осень-зима 2020. Шоу по традиции прошло в Гран-Пале. Модели ходили по зеркальному подиуму, заполненному дымом, в окружении белых скульптурных трибун. В коллекции креативный директор бренда Виржини Виар использовала отсылки не только к творчеству предшествующих ей Коко Шанель и Карлу Лагерфельду, но и к легендарному кутюрье Кристиану Лакруа. Черные платья, костюмы с приталенными юбками и твидовыми жакетами дополнили аппликации, принты и украшения в виде крестов с яркими камнями. Они напомнили фирменные декоративные элементы Лакруа. Самое известное их публичное появление было на черном жакете с крестом, который в 1988 году только назначенная на пост главного редактора Vogue Анна Винтур поместила на свою первую обложку. Виржини Виар на тот момент год работала в Chanel как стажер вышивального цеха — за 30 лет сотрудничества с модным домом она станет другом и музой Карла Лагерфельда и в конце концов примет от него управление брендом после смерти Карла. В том же 1988-м году Карл Лагерфельд тоже получил свою первую публикацию в американском Vogue. Все эти факты наделяют новую коллекцию Chanel особым символизмом. Как и на кутюрном шоу Chanel, состоявшемся 21 января, Виржини Виар вновь вспомнила о юношеских годах Коко Шанель, проведенных в Обазинском аббатстве. Из образов послушниц она на этот раз позаимствовала кружево, воротники с рюшами, белые колготки, прически с черными бантами и сапоги с отворотами, на низком каблуке.

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