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За что розу любят в парфюмерии и косметологии?
Равнодушных к розе нет. Любите ее? Отлично. Не любите? Не спешите так заявлять. Она полезна всем типам кожи и может стать невидимкой в любом аромате. Рассказываем, как ей это удается.
С точки зрения ухода за кожей роза — универсальный (и проверенный веками) солдат, она подходит разным типам кожи в зависимости от того, в каком виде ее будут использовать: в виде эфирного масла, экстракта или розовой воды. Самые очевидные достоинства розы будут полезны сухой коже: масло розы увлажнит, разгладит, успокоит. По тем же причинам оно отлично работает на зрелую кожу, так как насыщено жирными кислотами и антиоксидантами (куда ж без них), которые будут бороться с морщинами и усталым видом. Как ни странно, но роза поможет и жирной коже: розовая вода известна тонизирующими, очищающими и стягивающими свойствами. Кстати, ей же можно ополаскивать волосы (если это настоящая розовая вода), как это делают на Востоке уже многие века. Достоинств у розы так много, что хоть самой расти ее и делай выжимки для приготовления волшебного экстракта молодости. Проблема только в том, что из тридцати цветков вы получите пару капель масла, и не факт, что ваша роза будет обладать всеми полезными качествами. Это лучше доверить технологам косметических марок.
Чем роза может быть полезна вашей коже
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ВОССТАНАВЛИВАЮЩИЙ КОНЦЕНТРАТ DIOR PRESTIGE LA MICRO-HUILE DE ROSE, 14 700 РУБ., DIOR
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Крем для лица с экстрактом черной розы, 12 615 руб., Sisley
Маска для окрашенных волос Rose Hip Oil, 2650 руб., CHI
Сыворотка для лица Rose Oil Blend, £26,00, Pixi
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Расслабляющая смесь для ванны с солью Мертвого моря и бутонами дамасской розы Zen Bath, 1555 руб., BeautyBuzz
Тонизирующий спрей Complexion Water {Rose}, 1300 руб., Fig + Yarrow
Почему роза так популярна в парфюмерии
Начнем с того, что роза — один из первых цветков, чье масло использовали еще в древние времена и для косметических целей, и для придания аромата коже. Египет, Персия, Римская империя, арабские страны — везде роза была составляющей культуры ухода за собой.
В современной парфюмерии без розы не обойтись по простой причине: «Роза — это идеальная основа для любого аромата, не базовая нота, а каркас, структура, на которую можно нанизывать все остальные ноты. Розу очень легко скрыть. Сложнее сделать чистый аромат розы, чем ее спрятать», — объясняет Ксения Третьякова, руководитель проекта Molecule.
Если вы думаете, что не любите ароматы с розой, читайте дальше
В парфюмерии используется порядка 300 оттенков розы, иногда вы даже не сможете ее узнать в аромате. «Девяносто процентов людей, которые приходят в магазин с убеждением, что они не любят розу, уходят с покупкой аромата, где есть в основе роза, — говорит Ксения Третьякова. — Просто им никто об этом не говорит». Эти оттенки будут зависеть от многих причин: от сорта, страны, где выросла роза, метода получения экстракта, окружающих ее нот.
Какие сорта используются в парфюмерии
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Два самых популярных сорта роза в парфюмерии — это роза centifolia, майская, или столистная роза, которую выращивают в Грассе или Марокко, и роза damascena — дамасская роза, которая растет в Болгарии и Турции. Как можно догадаться, эти сорта часто называют по месту выращивания розы, поэтому обычному человеку нетрудно запутаться в них. Хотя две розы одного сорта, но выращенные на разной земле и в разных климатических условиях, все равно будут отличаться. «Именно условия окружающей среды определяют особое звучание цветка, — утверждает Ксения Третьякова. — Так, например, роза таиф (сорт называется по месту его происхождения — городу Таиф в Саудовской Аравии) растет в горах, в суровых условиях кислородной недостаточности, можно сказать. Если взять ее и посадить на другой земле, с другим климатом, она изменит свое уникальное звучание».
Роза таиф считается одним из самих дорогих сортов розы, реже других используется в парфюмерии и особенно ценится в арабских странах. Безусловно, ее высокую стоимость, как и любого ингредиента, определяет ее редкость.
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Парфюмерная вода с нотами шафрана, розы таиф и амбры Ta’if, 50 мл, 12 200 руб., Ormonde Jayne
Кстати, именно поэтому за последние сто лет менялись позиции грасской и болгарской розы. Болгарская еще сто лет назад была самым дорогим сортом, но сейчас стала одним из самых доступных. Грасская роза, наоборот, была дешевле, а сейчас ее производят 2 % от того количества, что производили сто лет назад. Притом что парфюмерный запрос, наоборот, вырос.
Исторические моменты для ароматов с розой
Каждый парфюмерный бренд считает необходимым иметь в своей коллекции аромат с розой и по возможности со своим фирменным почерком.
Один из первых знаменитых ароматов — Fleurs de Bulgarie Creed (сейчас этот аромат воссоздан в современном исполнении), созданный в 1845 году для королевы Виктории. По названию понятно, что аромат воспевает болгарскую розу.
Парфюмерная вода с нотами бергамота, болгарской розы, серой амбры и мускуса Fleurs de Bulgarie, 75 мл, 14 700 руб., Creed
В 1930 году бренд Jean Patou решил использовать розу в дуэте с жасмином и выпустил знаменитый аромат Joy, который был задуман как антидот мрачным настроениям в обществе во время Великой депрессии (мировой экономический кризис 1930-х годов). Кстати, в 2002 году дом Jean Patou выпустил Enjoy — современную версию Joy, где розу замешали с фруктами и специями.
В 1984 году Annick Goutal выпустила аромат Rose Absolue. Сама Анник Гуталь была фанатом розы и в этой композиции соединила шесть видов: майскую, турецкую, болгарскую, дамасскую, египетскую и марокканскую.
Другие знаковые имена многим знакомы: Nahéma Guerlain (1979), Paris Yves Saint Laurent (1983), Trésor Lancôme (1990), Stella de Stella McCartney (2003), Chloé (2008).
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Какая она — современная роза? И кому она подходит?
Сегодня нота розы выступает соло, чаще в компании с другими аккордами. Вместе с пионом или ландышем она звучит более свежо. Мускус накрывает ее прозрачной вуалью и превращает в тихий скромный цветок. Шафран и перец подчеркивают ее пикантную сторону. В нишевых ароматах розу часто ставят в пару с удом — классической нотой арабской парфюмерии.
Если раньше роза казалась возрастной, то сейчас большинство ароматов в сегменте масс-маркет и люкс направлены на молодых девушек, которые ищут более прозрачное или сладкое звучание розы в цветочных букетах. Такие ароматы легко дают наводку своим внешним видом: ищите флаконы в розовых и фиолетовых расцветках, часто с бантом или розой на горлышке.
В то же время нишевая парфюмерия отстаивает властный статус розы, утверждая, что «тяжелая» роза может быть отличным игроком и носить ее могут и женщины, и мужчины.
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Парфюмерная вода с нотами грасской и дамасской роз, красного апельсина и розового перца Miss Dior, 6990 руб., Dior
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