T
Что такое
косметический минимализм
и почему этот тренд полезен вашей коже
ТЕКСТ: Кристина Обломская (Buro 24/7 UA)
Бьюти-редакторы, блогеры и skincare-энтузиасты чистят свои полки с косметикой и все чаще говорят, что использовать много средств не нужно и вредно. И даже самые преданные адепты сложных систем ухода устраивают месяцы no buy и приучают своих читателей к минимализму. И в этом есть смысл.
С рассказа о косметическом минимализме начинает выступление сооснователь французского бренда Novexpert Сирил Теленж, который 25 лет жизни посвятил «зеленой химии», разработке косметики из натуральных компонентов. Больше всего Теленжа беспокоит то, сколько средств сейчас использует среднестатистический покупатель.
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Вдохновленные корейскими трендами вроде glass skin (кожа, блестящая как стекло), девушки постоянно отшелушивают кожу и наносят на нее слои увлажняющего ухода: мист, сыворотка, эссенция, крем, ампула (в корейской системе это дополнительное увлажняющее средство, которые нужно наносить поверх слоев сыворотки и крема). Каждое из них содержит не меньше десятка ингредиентов, в том числе парабены, компоненты эфирных масел и многое другое. Само по себе все это не опасно, но, по словам Теленжа, при нанесении на кожу в больших количествах может спровоцировать раздражение. А в долгосрочной перспективе делает кожу более чувствительной. Справедливость этого замечания подтверждает факт, что именно азиатки жалуются на реактивность кожи больше остальных. В 2017 году, согласно данным этого исследования, из тысячи опрошенных женщин чувствительной свою кожу назвали 68,8 %.
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Количество людей с реактивной кожей постоянно растет. Среди факторов, которые провоцируют чувствительность, — стресс, грязный воздух, гормональные нарушения и… постоянные эксперименты с уходом. В мире, где есть доступные кислоты, витамин С и ретиноиды, остановиться с экспериментами не так-то просто, потому что благодаря потоку информации из блогов и инстаграма людям кажется, что они разобрались в составах и принципах ухода. О том, что «читать составы» вредно, еще несколько лет назад писала в книге «Бьюти-мифы» косметолог и основательница Meder Beauty Science Тийна Орасмяэ-Медер, подчеркивая, что без высшего химического образования изучать список компонентов на этикетке бессмысленно.
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Проблема повышенной чувствительности и избытка косметики на полке, которая при этом не улучшает состояние кожи, положила начало новому, пока нишевому тренду — простому и понятному уходу из трех-пяти шагов, который не отнимает много времени и сил. В skincare-комьюнити стали актуальны инициативы no buy (период без покупок) и one empty — one newbie (покупать новое, только до конца использовав что-то старое). Их суть — использовать косметику более рационально и осознанно, тратить на нее меньше денег и при этом добиваться лучшего результата. Инстаграм-блогер Марсия, более известная под никнеймом Skinminimalist, стала одной из первых, кто заговорил о рациональности в уходе, и на своем примере доказала, что меньше — значит лучше. Она схематично показала зависимость состояния кожи от количества используемых средств.
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Еще один блогер, которая популяризирует разумный подход к уходу за кожей, — американка с корейскими корнями Лиа Ю. Минимализм стал основой концепта ее собственного бренда Krave Beauty, в коллекции которого всего два средства: очищающее средство на мягкой моющей основе и кислотный лосьон с экстрактами суперфудов. Лиа стала известной благодаря своему каналу об уходе за кожей на YouTube и взвешенному подходу к теме skincare: «слушайте свою кожу», «устраивайте себе отдых от косметики» — от бьюти-блогера такое услышишь нечасто.
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Идею минималистичного ухода подхватили и другие бренды. Принципа less is more придерживаются относительно новые на рынке марки Lixirskin и Stratia: в их линейках всего пять-семь продуктов, рассчитанные на три-четыре этапа. Мягкое очищение, стимуляция обновления клеток (у Lixirskin это комбинации кислот PHA/AHA и BHA/AHA в формате ночных средств и ретиноиды, у Stratia — деликатная миндальная кислота), увлажнение и восстановление защитного барьера кожи — логичный и всем понятный уход.
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Stratia Liquid Gold
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Даже среди корейских брендов заметен новый тренд: марка Pyunkang Yul, например, помимо сокращенного варианта традиционной для азиаток системы стремится к гипоаллергенности и выпускает продукты без отдушек, подходящие для чувствительной кожи. Это простые средства, которые не обещают чудес, а закрывают базовые потребности в уходе: очищение, увлажнение, починку гидролипидного слоя и эпидермального барьера.
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Pyunkang Yul Essence Toner
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Со сложным многоступенчатым уходом есть еще одна проблема: сочетание косметики с активными компонентами между собой — непростое дело. Понятная шпаргалка о том, как это правильно делать, есть, например, на сайте The Ordinary. Только справедливы эти рекомендации для конкретных продуктов: The Ordinary всегда указывают pH и концентрацию активных компонентов в составе своих тритментов. С другими средствами это может не работать: не зная точных концентраций и уровня pH косметики, можно получить осложнения (например, ожог) или нивелировать действие продуктов. Наглядный пример: витамин С в форме L-аскорбиновой кислоты при сочетании с модным сейчас ниацинамидом может вызвать красноту и жжение, пишет в своем блоге косметический химик Стефан Алан Ко.
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Lixirskin Night Switch
PHA/AHA 10%
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Договориться с желанием пробовать новое можно. Сначала составьте основу ухода — мягкое очищение, увлажнение, крем с SPF (пункты 2 и 3 можно объединить), — привыкните к ней, а затем добавляйте новые продукты, скажем, мист для дополнительного увлажнения кожи и сыворотку. Главное — не больше одного-двух дополнительных средств за раз. Команда «косметического полицейского» Полы Бегун, например, советует использовать не более пяти продуктов утром и вечером (очищающее средство, тоник, пилинг, сыворотка и увлажняющее средство — с SPF или без в зависимости от времени суток); опционально к этой схеме можно добавлять бустеры и средства для локального применения.
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Проще всего экспериментировать с масками, спреями и очищающими средствами. Увлажняющие, очищающие, лифтинговые, ночные маски в любом формате — хоть кремовые, хоть листовые — это хороший способ познакомиться с новым для себя брендом, не меняя основной уход. Спреи также можно встроить в любую систему: наносить под сыворотку или крем, освежать лицо в течение дня, фиксировать макияж и так далее. С сыворотками сложнее: важно знать свой тип кожи и адекватно понимать ее проблемы и потребности — только так получится выбрать «свой» продукт. А еще стоит помнить общее правило наслаивания косметики: от легких текстур — к плотным, от водянистых — к масляным. Даже в рамках косметического минимализма использовать новые средства можно (и иногда нужно), но принцип «все лучшее сразу» — это не про правильный уход за кожей.
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