T

На всю голову

Про нейл-арт мы уже говорили, про рисунки на веках тоже. Самое время обсудить узоры на волосах! Разбираемся, откуда взялась техника нанесения рисунка на локоны, что попросить у колориста в салоне и как справиться с задачей самостоятельно.

Drake

В начале месяца по интернету гуляло фото Drake, на котором рэпер (чей новый альбом мы очень ждем) изображен с необычной для него прической и выбеленным у лба узором в виде сердца. А на прошлой неделе с затейливыми цветами на белом каре появилась в своем новом клипе Дженнифер Лопес. Так что есть все шансы, что музыканты — а парикмахер Джей Ло работает также с Дуа Липой и Кэти Перри — сделают это окрашивание таким же популярным, как контрастные пряди у лица.

Эмма Томпсон

Дженнифер Лопес

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В пользу техники говорит и то, что первая волна ее популярности пришлась на 2000-е — десятилетие, которое в принципе возвращается в моду.

«Трафаретное окрашивание было популярно на парикмахерских съемках в начале нулевых», — говорит топ-стилист MUTE Геворг Агамалян. Того же мнения придерживается стилист по волосам и совладелец сети парикмахерских Birdie Коля Риш: «Изначально эта техника появилась в профильных журналах. Все пошло от парикмахеров, которые хотели заниматься творчеством, от их желания выделяться и усиливать свои скилы — это очень сложное окрашивание».

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Так как подобная техника была своего рода Terra Incognita в мире окрашиваний, к ней прибегали многие колористы. Но визионером, по словам Риша, был осевший в Лондоне итальянец Анжело Семинара . Он не просто продвигал идею трафаретного окрашивания, а изобрел прибор, который помогает колористу создавать максимально четкие узоры на волосах.


«Волосы — это материал, который постоянно находится в движении. Чтобы рисунок был четким и его было видно, красить нужно слоями, тонкими прядями одна за другой, и четко попадать в ранее прорисованные линии, — объясняет Коля. — Волосы должны быть идеально прямыми — их вытягивают, фиксируют с помощью лака, затем наносят рисунок. И Анжело Семинара придумал инструмент, на котором как на планшете фиксируются волосы и трафарет, а сверху наносится краситель. В этом заключается его ноу-хау. Кажется, „импринтер“ (так называется прибор) использует и парикмахер Дженнифер Лопес».

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Но Анжело далеко не единственный, кто профессионально работает в этой технике. Геворг Агамалян советует присмотреться к команде стилистов xpresionc из Мадрида. «Испанцы придумали пиксельное окрашивание лет пять назад. Это выглядело очень клево, очень талантливо и стало своего рода бумом среди парикмахеров». Работает в этой технике и креативный директор и один из создателей марки Tigi Энтони Масколо, и множество талантливых парикмахеров с меньшим количеством регалий — достаточно пройти по хештегу #hairstencil.

Тем не менее остается очень много нюансов, которые препятствуют тому, чтобы этот нишевый тренд стал мейнстримом, — в этом солидарны Агамалян и Риш. Во-первых, это технически очень сложно. Во-вторых, долго. В-третьих, за таким окрашиванием очень сложно ухаживать.


«Когда мы рисуем цветом по светлым волосам, оттенки будут вымываться и расползаться, пока не превратятся в разводы, — предупреждает Коля Риш. — Продлить жизнь окрашиванию можно привычными методами — использовать минимум шампуня или мыть волосы холодной водой (хотя зимой это не кажется слишком разумным)».

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Более долговечный вариант — создать узор на темных волосах путем обесцвечивания. Такой рисунок никуда не денется. Или использовать парик — как сделала Джей Ло в своем клипе. Или сменить стрижку, как советует Геворг, — на коротких волосах с помощью трафарета можно рисовать даже дома, если очень хочется.

В конце концов, можно использовать не перманентный краситель, а баллончики с краской для волос. Рисунок не переживет и первого мытья, зато и восстановить его не сложно.


«Сейчас тренд трафаретного изображения на волосах востребован в большей степени благодаря Инстаграму, — считает Дарья Немзер, арт-директор MUTE. — Вариантов трафаретов бесчисленное множество: от геометрических и абстрактных до сложных художественных изображений. И это, конечно, привлекает внимание». По мнению Немзер, техника могла быть заимствована у граффити. И коллективный разум в Инстаграме с ней, кажется, согласен — еще один популярный хештег, по которому можно найти трафаретное окрашивание, — это #graffitihair.


При этом сама идея далеко не новая. В интервью Vice стилистка по волосам из Южной Калифорнии Жанин Кер (цветное окрашивание она часто совмещает с фигурными стрижками, получая узоры в 3D) рассказывала: «Недавно я наткнулась на винтажный ролик о прическах 1950–1960-х годов, и там использовали цветные спреи и трафареты!»

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Вдохновились достаточно, чтобы приступать к окрашиванию?


Тогда начните с выбора трафарета — его можно купить или вырезать собственноручно. Затем вытяните волосы утюжком — на гладкой поверхности рисунок лучше считается. Следом зафиксируйте волосы лаком (по словам Риша, он пригодится, даже если вы раскошелились на «импринтер»). И уже поверх прикладывайте трафарет и рисуйте. Дайте подсохнуть, и, если у вас, конечно, есть антитела, можно отправляться на вечеринку. Главное — не попасть под снег.

Стайлер SteamPod 3.0, L'Oreal Professionnel 

21 900 ₽

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Термозащитный спрей для волос Phytokeratine Repairing Thermal Protectant Spray, Phyto

2 115 ₽

Термозащитный спрей Glow + Smooth, PHILOSOPHY by Alex Kontier

2 200 ₽

Тонирующий спрей для волос Color Blush, Sephora Collection 

646 ₽

Выпрямитель Corrale, Dyson 

39 990 ₽

Спрей для волос Colorista Spray, L’Oreal Paris 

436 ₽

Лак сильной фиксации And 44 Vamp Spray, Kemon

1 881 ₽

Спрей-краситель для волос Pastel Spray, Kryolan 

1 350 ₽

Стайлинг-термозащита для волос Spray Extreme Play Safe 230°C, Redken

1 841  ₽

Моделирующий лак «Гладкость», Nivea 

364 ₽

Лучшие материалы The Blueprint
в нашем канале на Яндекс.Дзен

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