T
Лучшее
с недели моды в Париже
Текст: Нелли Асриян
ФОТО:
LAUNCHMETRICS SPOTLIGHT
Модный месяц подошел к концу — во-первых, выдыхаем. А во-вторых, подводим итоги последней из четырех недель моды — парижской — списком самых интересных образов: ковбой на Jean Paul Gaultier, первая женщина-пилот на Balmain, пастух на Louis Vuitton и, в конце концов, Чебурашка на Loewe.
Dior
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«Я хотел одежду, работающую при дневном свете», — заявил Джонатан Андерсон после шоу Dior осень-зима 2026/2027. На котором и показал, пожалуй, самое «вирусное» платье Парижской недели моды — с парой хризантем, что так красиво способны распуститься только под лучами солнца.
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{"points":[{"id":7,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":0,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":9,"properties":{"x":0,"y":-30,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":8,"properties":{"duration":200,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power0.easeNone","automatic_duration":false}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}
Saint Laurent
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Прошлой осенью Энтони Ваккарелло показал объемные платья с экстранизкими талиями, а для будущей — такие же шубы. Помимо нее у главной героини коллекции, по мнению дизайнера, должны быть только «телефон, карта и фотография детей».
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Dries
Van Noten
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На мудборде Джулиана Клаузнера были фламандский натюрморт, гобелен и студенческая форма — так и родился «расписанный» цветами жакет с лацканами, напоминающими воротник университетской куртки. «Невероятно. Просто невероятно», — сказал после показа Дрис Ван Нотен своему смущенному ученику.
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Balmain
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А главной героиней дебютировавшего в Balmain Антонена Труна стала Даниэль Декуре — первая женщина-пилот авиакомпании Air France. Та, которая днем надевает черную кожаную куртку, а вечером — переодевается в черный смокинг. И блузу с игривыми лентами.
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Tom Ford
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«Вот они — твердо стоят на ногах и честно смотрят
на все, что происходит в этом мире» — так Хайдер Акерманн описал своих моделей. Одна из них выглядела, пожалуй, честнее всего — в простых джинсах и шерстяном жакете, а еще с солнцезащитными очками, кожаными перчатками и сединой.
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Alaïa
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Последняя коллекция Питера Мюлье для Alaïa (дизайнер переходит в Versace — поближе к старому другу Рафу Симонсу), по его словам, «пытается быть идеальной» — и у нее получается. «Я хотел показать, чему научился в модном доме. Я научился точности. Я научился редактировать. И понял, что настоящая роскошь — не то, о чем мы думаем. Настоящая роскошь — идеально скроенный жакет».
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Schiaparelli
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«Та самая сука, которая просто живет эту жизнь», —
без всякого стеснения характеризовал Дэниел Роузберри клиентку Schiaparelli. «Жить жизнь» ей советуем в платье с как бы отзеркаленным верхом —
и шуршащим низом, расшитым то ли пайетками,
то ли бахромой.
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Mugler
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Мигель Кастро Фрейтас исправился после своей дебютной коллекции для Mugler — по крайней мере, перестал использовать бежевый цвет. Вместо него — глубокий фиолетовый, ярко-желтый и насыщенный синий. А еще отсылки к power dressing 80-х — глянуть на широкие плечи этого гибрида платья и куртки.
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{"points":[{"id":7,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":0,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":9,"properties":{"x":0,"y":-30,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":8,"properties":{"duration":200,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power0.easeNone","automatic_duration":false}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}
Loewe
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Это же буквально Чебурашка. Правда, Джек Маккалоу и Лазаро Эрнандес вдохновлялись работами не советских мультипликаторов, а немецкой художницы Козимы фон Бонин — а точнее ее скульптурами фантазийных существ.
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{"points":[{"id":7,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":0,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":9,"properties":{"x":0,"y":-30,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":8,"properties":{"duration":200,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power0.easeNone","automatic_duration":false}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}
Givenchy
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Платье с цветами и будто вытекающей из них бахромой — чем не разрушающийся от старости фламандский натюрморт? «Как собраться в мире, который разваливается?» — задалась вопросом Сара Бертон
и, как в любые тревожные времена, попыталась найти ответ и успокоение в прошлом: полотнах Абрахама Миньона и Даниэля Сегерса.
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{"points":[{"id":7,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":0,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":9,"properties":{"x":0,"y":-30,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":8,"properties":{"duration":200,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power0.easeNone","automatic_duration":false}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}
Celine
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Пайетки, которые будет видно за километр — даже учитывая то, что они лишь игриво выглядывают
из-под плаща. «Хотел, чтобы было просто свежо
и круто», — прокомментировал всю коллекцию Майкл Райдер. А что, собственно, еще нужно?
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{"points":[{"id":7,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":0,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":9,"properties":{"x":0,"y":-30,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":8,"properties":{"duration":200,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power0.easeNone","automatic_duration":false}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}
Balenciaga
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Маленькое черное платье в исполнении Пьерпаоло Пиччоли. Черный в целом стал основополагающим цветом коллекции — как и принты, сделанные из стоп-кадров серий «Эйфории». Ведь дизайнер пригласил Сэма Левинсона, автора шоу, поучаствовать в создании коллекции.
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{"points":[{"id":7,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":0,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":9,"properties":{"x":0,"y":-30,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":8,"properties":{"duration":200,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power0.easeNone","automatic_duration":false}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}
Jean Paul Gaultier
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Вполне себе персонаж мультфильма «Раз ковбой, два ковбой». Хотя Дюран Лантинк настаивает, что на этот образ его подтолкнул снимок Марлен Дитрих с хлыстом. «Думаю, такая игривость — то, что роднит меня с месье Готье», — рассудил дизайнер.
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McQueen
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Шон Макгирр, кажется, чувствует себя все увереннее — по крайней мере, смотря его шоу, больше не хочется плакать. А за это полупрозрачное платье с цветами и болеро из перьев (в сочетании с выглядывающим
из-под него локоном волос) — хочется вовсе похвалить.
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Chanel
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Выбрать один образ из коллекции Chanel становится все сложнее. Но этот твидовый комплект пятнами и вкраплениями напоминает гусеницу — ведь Матье Блази вспомнил об интервью Габриэль Шанель газете Le Figaro. «Мода — это и гусеница, и бабочка, — говорила она. — Будь гусеницей днем и бабочкой ночью».
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Louis Vuitton
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Судя по этому образу, Николя Жескьер теперь знает, что такое бурка. Да и вдохновлялся дизайнер явно пастухами (может, даже с картин Нико Пиросмани): дальше в коллекции встречается, например, пастушья палка ярлыга — с зеленой сумкой aka котомкой aka узелком на конце.
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Miu Miu
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Миучча Прада понимает поговорку «держи ноги
в тепле, а голову в холоде» ровно наоборот — сочетая тапочки с ушанкой. А еще опять заигрывает с рабочей одеждой, униформой и прочим «бытовым» гардеробом.
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