T
Неделя моды в Милане в 18 образах
ФОТО:
LAUNCHMETRICS SPOTLIGHT
Четыре дебюта, трюки с переодеванием и снова вуайеризм — чем запомнилась Неделя моды в Милане осень-зима 2026/2027? Отвечаем в 18 образах.
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Walk of shame, версия Diesel. «Ты просыпаешься после бурной ночи, совершенно не представляя, где находишься, нужно одеться и сбежать, — поясняет Гленн Мартенс. — Очевидно, нет времени посмотреться в зеркало». Впрочем, занятнее как бы наспех застегнутых, мятых рубашек, платьев и кардиганов оказались фактуры коллекции: «застиранный» синий бархат, микс из, кажется, десяти разных видов меха и эта будто валяная вместе с макулатурой шерсть.
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Не традиционные бежевые пальто, а мантии. Как если бы модный дом Max Mara существовал в Средневековье. Или просто креативный директор Ян Гриффитс съездил на экскурсию в Саттон-Ху — археологический комплекс в английском графстве Суффолк. Но, что еще вероятнее, просто досмотрел «Рыцаря Семи королевств».
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Дебютная, то есть прошлая коллекция Симона Беллотти для Jil Sander оказалась настолько минималистичной, что, глядя на эту — скажем так, тоже не изобилующую деталями, — модные критики заявили: другое дело! В частности, их зацепили вырезы на костюмных юбках в районе боковых швов и высокие разрезы на спинах пальто. Мы, впрочем, сохранили в закладки другой образ: чтобы так же носить веселые синие носки и вытаскивать из-под жакета один угол воротника.
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Мария Грация Кьюри, которая пришла в Fendi после окончания университета и проработала с 1989 по 1999 год, дебютировала в качестве креативного директора дома — но, по заключению критиков, близкое знакомство с римским домом ей не слишком помогло. Оценку «удовлетворительно» за кружевные юбки, лохматые воротники из меха и «куцые» жилетки ей поставила и Марина Прохорова — читайте рецензию здесь.
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Шарфы, лацканы пальто, воротники свитеров — все размера XXL в новой коллекции Альберто Калири. Впрочем, не меньше критиков впечатлила его игра с фактурами, цветами и принтами: как, например, в этом образе, где встречается три вида шерсти — в морскую и мелкую ритмичную полоску, а также «елочку».
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Впору писать материал «Наполеон — главный модный инфлюенсер прямо сейчас». Вслед за характерными шляпами Dior и гусарскими мундирами у целого ряда брендов мы неожиданно наблюдаем двууголки из меха даже у певцов этники Etro.
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Кардиганы с шелковым подкладом, надетые лишь наполовину, мятые, будто бы из конфетных оберток, юбки с рубашками и болтающиеся на шее съемные меховые капюшоны — можно было подумать, что перед нами еще одно высказывание на тему walk of shame. Но Алессандро Дель Аква перелистал книгу The Hotel, Room 47 французской концептуалистки Софи Калле, чья ретроспективная выставка откроется в ноябре в Музее современного искусства в Берлине. В начале 1980-х та устроилась горничной в венецианский отель, где примеряла одежду постояльцев, изучала содержимое их косметичек, распыляла духи и читала дневники. И почему мы не добавили ее мудборд вуайеризма?
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Марко Фальцони перелистал каталоги Boss 1980-х и 1990-х годов — и в итоге стилизовал эту костюмную классику под конные прогулки по осеннему поместью. Сапоги и ботфорты из коллекции, впрочем, будут кстати уже сейчас, когда аномально высокие московские сугробы начнут таять.
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Кто бы мог подумать, что правило «не знаешь, что сказать про одежду, — описывай сет-дизайн» пригодится и в случае с Prada. Поэтому вместо коллекции — нарочито мятых юбок, полупрозрачных сарафанов и коротких топов, которые мы не раз видели на показах бренда, — критики сконцентрировались на кастинге: всего 15 моделей для 60 образов. Каждая выходила на подиум четыре раза, снимая или добавляя вещь в свой многослойный образ.
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Выдохнули с облегчением, рассматривая дебютную коллекцию Мерилл Рогге — победительницы премии ANDAM Fashion Awards 2025 — для Marni. Остроумная игра с пропорциями (только взгляните на габариты пайеток на этом платье — они еще и позвякивали при ходьбе), цвета, в которые впиваешься взглядом, и небанальные аксессуары (вроде колье, напоминающего связку перчиков чили) — все, за что мы любили бренд в последние десять лет, осталось на месте. Только теперь в марке еще и много функционального — например, эта сочно-зеленая парка.
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Фаусто Пульизи услышал, что Демна полюбил работать с крокодиловой кожей, и решил напомнить коллеге, кто на работе с экзотическими материалами (и их имитацией) собаку съел. Эту коллекцию дизайнер посвятил итальянской аристократке Луизе Казати, которая по легенде носила ожерелья из живых змей и путешествовала с ручными гепардами.
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От любви до ненависти: даже самый бесчувственный человек не остался равнодушным к дебютному шоу Демны для Gucci. В том числе к этому образу, который продемонстрировал рэпер Fakemink и который в российских соцсетях дружно окрестили «Gucci c “Садовода”». Нам меж тем кажется, что шоу удалось, — и вот почему.
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Без лишних слов: платье-гондола. Но если этого мало, добавим, что Венеция (в том числе ночная) вдохновила Давида Кому еще и на меховые мантии дожей, сияющие, как люстры из муранского стекла, золотые блузы и темные приталенные кардиганы с высокими кружевными воротниками и принтами в виде шипастых алых роз.
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Клатчи в виде кактуса и пакетика с чуррос — это прекрасно, но первое, на что модники начнут откладывать из новой коллекции Адриана Аппиолазы, которую тот посвятил родной Аргентине и экс первой леди страны Эве Перон, — это сумка в виде свинки-копилки.
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В мудбрде Доменико Дольче и Стефано Габбаны были фотографии юных Марпессы Хеннинк и Изабеллы Росселлини — обе в сицилийских мужских костюмах, которые отличали Dolce & Gabbana в первые годы существования. Мы, впрочем, не исключаем, что где-то там затесался и Гарри Стайлз, только-только выступивший в таком же костюме (правда, Chanel) на Brit Awards.
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На фоне слухов о том, что Максимилиан Дэвис может покинуть Ferragamo (так набравших обороты, что руководству пришлось выпустить официальное опровержение), дизайнер показал одну из самых сильных коллекций за четыре года в бренде. Выдающейся ее сделали главным образом фактуры и цвета, позаимствованные с работ художника-прецизиониста Чарльза Демута. Квинтэссенцией можно назвать платье, выполненное будто из жидкого золота.
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Можно бесконечно смотреть на огонь, воду и танцующую стеклянную бахрому, из которой Луиз Троттер делает топы, а теперь и шубы Bottega Veneta. Впрочем, не меньше на ее втором шоу для модного дома завораживали и другие фактуры: скажем, шелковые нити, с помощью которых дизайнер сымитировала овчину, или бархат, выстриженный так, чтобы напоминать каракуль. Это эффектное платье с огненной дымкой мы так и не разгадали, но положим, оно из взъерошенного ворса.
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Первая коллекция бренда под руководством Сильваны Армани, племянницы покойного дизайнера, ясно дала понять, что радикальных (да и вообще любых) изменений в бренде ждать не стоит. На месте остаются и костюмы из текучего бархата с удивительной светотенью.
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