16 ЯНВАРЯ 2020

«Мягкие» доспехи, фильмы Акиры Куросавы и танец — на показе Undercover

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margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/B7Xy5zxodgY/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none;" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Публикация от La Mode en Images (@lamodeenimages)</a> <time style=" font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px;" datetime="2020-01-16T07:15:50+00:00">15 Янв 2020 в 11:15 PST</time></p></div></blockquote> <script async src="//www.instagram.com/embed.js"></script>

В Париже, в Зимнем цирке семьи Бугильон состоялся показ Undercover. Креативный директор бренда Юн Такахаси представил мужскую и женскую коллекцию осень-зима 2020-2021. Он превратил цирковой манеж одновременно в подиум и сцену для перформанса, окрасив его как мишень. При работе над коллекцией дизайнер вдохновлялся фильмами японского режиссера Акиры Куросавы и, в частности, образами Тоширо Мифунэ — одного из любимых актеров Куросавы. Это отразилось в традиционных для бренда фотопринтах, украсивших отдельные вещи, силуэтах костюмов и танцевальном перформансе из трех частей о «Падшем человеке», который сопровождал показ. Над ним Такахаси работал вместе с фотографом Кацухиде Моримото, режиссером Тэцуя Нагато и бельгийским хореографом Дамьеном Жале. В финале представления они воссоздали сцену из фильма Куросавы 1975 года «Трон в крови»: герой танцовщика Тома Вайнбергера метался по сцене-мишени, уворачиваясь от стрел, которые падали сверху. В коллекции Такахаси показал отсылки к разным типам традиционного японского костюма, от одежд буддийских монахов с накидками «анг-хо», отразившихся в «городских» пижамных комплектах, до доспехов самураев, «смягченных» с помощью стеганых материалов, декоративных элементов из кожи и твида, цветовой гаммы и кроя, превращающего их в платья. Образы дополняли современные версии сандалий гэта, сумки, наброшенные на шеи, шапки и шляпы.

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font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:550; line-height:18px;"> Посмотреть эту публикацию в Instagram</div></div><div style="padding: 12.5% 0;"></div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: row; margin-bottom: 14px; align-items: center;"><div> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(0px) translateY(7px);"></div> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; height: 12.5px; transform: rotate(-45deg) translateX(3px) translateY(1px); width: 12.5px; flex-grow: 0; margin-right: 14px; margin-left: 2px;"></div> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(9px) translateY(-18px);"></div></div><div style="margin-left: 8px;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 20px; width: 20px;"></div> <div style=" width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 2px solid transparent; border-left: 6px solid #f4f4f4; border-bottom: 2px solid transparent; transform: translateX(16px) translateY(-4px) rotate(30deg)"></div></div><div style="margin-left: auto;"> <div style=" width: 0px; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-right: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(16px);"></div> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; flex-grow: 0; height: 12px; width: 16px; transform: translateY(-4px);"></div> <div style=" width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-left: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(-4px) translateX(8px);"></div></div></div></a> <p style=" margin:8px 0 0 0; padding:0 4px;"> <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/B7XML3Vjifo/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style=" color:#000; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none; word-wrap:break-word;" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noreferrer">PARIS FASHION WEEK BEGINS: @champ_magazine team out in full force ?????? Japanese designer #JunTakahashi brought pure cinematic excellence to his @undercover_lab AW20-21 collection, presenting the story of the “Fallen Man” directed by Takahashi, film director @tetsuyanagato, photographer @katsuhide_morimoto and choreography by the exceptional Belgian choreographer @damienjalet, held in the monumental location of the Cirque d’Hiver Bouglione. ? The influence of legendary Japanese filmmaker Kurosawa was heavily present, with images of actor #ToshiroMifune and Kurosawa’s main collaborator, found emblazoned on garments or referenced in the final arrow scene from Throne of Blood. Heavily layered pieces were reminiscent of Japanese traditional workwear, with modern takes on wooden “geta” sandals and samurai-like armour pieces reworked with leather and tweed. Models navigated around three performers draped in white creating an enigmatic spirit; @candelacapitan @christina_guieb @omarsdottirerna with the collections’ central protagonist “Fallen Man” @weinberger.tom ending with a tense and dramatic finale. Sounds by Ron Morelli and Krikor Kouchian of @lies_records. Captured by Champ belle @mayasonic. ♥️??????SUPERBE. “In a mad world, only the mad are sane.” ———— #undercover #undercoverlab #pfw #fallenman #damienjalet #juntakahashi #cirquedhiverbouglione #liesrecords</a></p> <p style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;">Публикация от <a href="https://www.instagram.com/joannakawecki/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px;" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noreferrer"> Joanna Kawecki</a> (@joannakawecki) <time style=" font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px;" datetime="2020-01-16T01:37:31+00:00">15 Янв 2020 в 5:37 PST</time></p></div></blockquote> <script async src="//www.instagram.com/embed.js"></script>

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