Blueprint
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Они везде: в видеоклипах, на обложках журналов, показах и, конечно, в инстаграме. Они необычные, безусловно красивые и сложно носибельные. Разбираемся, кто, зачем и как делает объемные, словно стеклянные ногти.


<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/CIWn0Xsl8r2/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" data-instgrm-version="13" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:540px; min-width:326px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"><div style="padding:16px;"> <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CIWn0Xsl8r2/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style=" background:#FFFFFF; line-height:0; padding:0 0; text-align:center; text-decoration:none; width:100%;" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noreferrer"> <div style=" display: flex; flex-direction: row; align-items: center;"> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 40px; margin-right: 14px; width: 40px;"></div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 100px;"></div> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 60px;"></div></div></div><div style="padding: 19% 0;"></div> <div style="display:block; height:50px; margin:0 auto 12px; width:50px;"><svg width="50px" height="50px" viewBox="0 0 60 60" version="1.1" xmlns="https://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="https://www.w3.org/1999/xlink"><g stroke="none" stroke-width="1" fill="none" fill-rule="evenodd"><g transform="translate(-511.000000, -20.000000)" fill="#000000"><g><path d="M556.869,30.41 C554.814,30.41 553.148,32.076 553.148,34.131 C553.148,36.186 554.814,37.852 556.869,37.852 C558.924,37.852 560.59,36.186 560.59,34.131 C560.59,32.076 558.924,30.41 556.869,30.41 M541,60.657 C535.114,60.657 530.342,55.887 530.342,50 C530.342,44.114 535.114,39.342 541,39.342 C546.887,39.342 551.658,44.114 551.658,50 C551.658,55.887 546.887,60.657 541,60.657 M541,33.886 C532.1,33.886 524.886,41.1 524.886,50 C524.886,58.899 532.1,66.113 541,66.113 C549.9,66.113 557.115,58.899 557.115,50 C557.115,41.1 549.9,33.886 541,33.886 M565.378,62.101 C565.244,65.022 564.756,66.606 564.346,67.663 C563.803,69.06 563.154,70.057 562.106,71.106 C561.058,72.155 560.06,72.803 558.662,73.347 C557.607,73.757 556.021,74.244 553.102,74.378 C549.944,74.521 548.997,74.552 541,74.552 C533.003,74.552 532.056,74.521 528.898,74.378 C525.979,74.244 524.393,73.757 523.338,73.347 C521.94,72.803 520.942,72.155 519.894,71.106 C518.846,70.057 518.197,69.06 517.654,67.663 C517.244,66.606 516.755,65.022 516.623,62.101 C516.479,58.943 516.448,57.996 516.448,50 C516.448,42.003 516.479,41.056 516.623,37.899 C516.755,34.978 517.244,33.391 517.654,32.338 C518.197,30.938 518.846,29.942 519.894,28.894 C520.942,27.846 521.94,27.196 523.338,26.654 C524.393,26.244 525.979,25.756 528.898,25.623 C532.057,25.479 533.004,25.448 541,25.448 C548.997,25.448 549.943,25.479 553.102,25.623 C556.021,25.756 557.607,26.244 558.662,26.654 C560.06,27.196 561.058,27.846 562.106,28.894 C563.154,29.942 563.803,30.938 564.346,32.338 C564.756,33.391 565.244,34.978 565.378,37.899 C565.522,41.056 565.552,42.003 565.552,50 C565.552,57.996 565.522,58.943 565.378,62.101 M570.82,37.631 C570.674,34.438 570.167,32.258 569.425,30.349 C568.659,28.377 567.633,26.702 565.965,25.035 C564.297,23.368 562.623,22.342 560.652,21.575 C558.743,20.834 556.562,20.326 553.369,20.18 C550.169,20.033 549.148,20 541,20 C532.853,20 531.831,20.033 528.631,20.18 C525.438,20.326 523.257,20.834 521.349,21.575 C519.376,22.342 517.703,23.368 516.035,25.035 C514.368,26.702 513.342,28.377 512.574,30.349 C511.834,32.258 511.326,34.438 511.181,37.631 C511.035,40.831 511,41.851 511,50 C511,58.147 511.035,59.17 511.181,62.369 C511.326,65.562 511.834,67.743 512.574,69.651 C513.342,71.625 514.368,73.296 516.035,74.965 C517.703,76.634 519.376,77.658 521.349,78.425 C523.257,79.167 525.438,79.673 528.631,79.82 C531.831,79.965 532.853,80.001 541,80.001 C549.148,80.001 550.169,79.965 553.369,79.82 C556.562,79.673 558.743,79.167 560.652,78.425 C562.623,77.658 564.297,76.634 565.965,74.965 C567.633,73.296 568.659,71.625 569.425,69.651 C570.167,67.743 570.674,65.562 570.82,62.369 C570.966,59.17 571,58.147 571,50 C571,41.851 570.966,40.831 570.82,37.631"></path></g></g></g></svg></div><div style="padding-top: 8px;"> <div style=" color:#3897f0; 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Нейл-арт живее всех живых: стразами и орнаментами украшают ногти уже не только женщины, но и мужчины, к тому же для каждого ногтя выбирается индивидуальный дизайн. В довершение ко всем этим маленьким революциям нейл-арт уходит из привычной плоскости — в самом прямом геометрическом смысле. Все чаще можно встретить объемные ногти. Кто-то вылепливает на ногтевой пластине цветы, кто-то крепит на нее бутылочку Fairy, миниатюрный подъемный кран или человечка из акрила. Но самый модный объемный маникюр — сделанный словно из стекла.


За доказательствами далеко ходить не надо. Вы, возможно, входите в 20 с лишним миллионов человек, которые уже посмотрели вышедший в начале неделе клип Розалии и Bad Bunny. До этого «стеклянный» нейл-арт засветился в другом дуэте певицы — с Билли Айлиш. В клипе на песню Lo Vas a Olvidar так не похожие друг на друга в визуальном плане исполнительницы нашли-таки точку соприкосновения в нейл-арте (которым, к слову, обе увлекаются) — на ногтях у девушек можно рассмотреть словно застывшие причудливые всплески и пузырьки воды, которые появляются на водной глади во время дождя.

клип BAD BUNNY x ROSALÍA «LA NOCHE DE ANOCHE»

обложка i-D

Розалия в Клипе «Lo Vas a Olvidar»

Билли Айлиш в промо Клипа «Lo Vas a Olvidar»

А еще раньше прозрачные инопланетные цветы украсили ногти певицы без преувеличения легендарной — Бьорк появилась с ними на обложке юбилейного номера i-D.


На неделях моды проигнорировать такой яркий тренд, конечно, не могли — на недавнем показе Iris van Herpen все внимание было приковано к ногтям, выполненным в технике, которая получила название «экзоскелетный нейл-арт». Они стали одним из самых ярких событий прошедшего кутюра.


Что и говорить про инстаграм, где словно выполненный не нейл-стилистами, а стеклодувом маникюр появился гораздо раньше, чтобы остаться надолго.


Iris van Herpen, весна-лето 2021

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«Объемные элементы декора — это не новинка в нейл-арте: мастера из Восточной Азии делали из акрила зверей и фигурки, а российские — лепнину и цветы, — говорит Евгения Голубева, которая не раз создавала маникюр на съемках The Blueprint. — Сейчас в моду вошла объемная абстракция — и это, в общем, в духе времени». Растущую не первый год популярность объемного маникюра замечает и нейл-мастер Даша Мещерякова. «Появляется все больше новых креативных художников, которые выбирают для самовыражения руки и ногти. Они не думают об этом как о каких-то клиентских историях и о том, насколько это применимо в реальной жизни. Это просто один из их инструментов для творчества, — говорит она. — Очень радует, что с недавних пор эти мастера стали более заметны и привлекли внимание своими необычными работами, которые стали чем-то действительно новым и „просочились“ на съемки и даже на мировые подиумы».


Как сделать такой необычный маникюр? Нейл-стилист Соджин О, занимавшаяся ногтями Айлиш и Розалии, создавала объем с помощью стеклянных заготовок, сделанных художницей Грейс Уордлоу, и прозрачного геля The Gel Bottle.


Еще один вариант — 3D-принтер. Именно на нем был напечатан «экзоскелет» Iris van Herpen и маникюр Бьорк (в первом случае лавры достались Эйчи Мацунаге, во втором они поделены между ней и другим японским мастером — Томоей Накагавой).

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<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/CKsTeV1A7NE/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" data-instgrm-version="13" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:540px; min-width:326px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"><div style="padding:16px;"> <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CKsTeV1A7NE/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style=" background:#FFFFFF; line-height:0; padding:0 0; text-align:center; text-decoration:none; width:100%;" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noreferrer"> <div style=" display: flex; flex-direction: row; align-items: center;"> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 40px; margin-right: 14px; width: 40px;"></div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; 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Ни у вас, ни у вашего нейл-стилиста нет 3D и знакомого стеклодува? Это вовсе не значит, что можно забыть про подобный нейл-арт. «Я искренне восхищаюсь тем, что делает Эйчи Мацунага при помощи 3D-принтера. Но не нужно копировать, можно вдохновиться: лучше, чем оригинал, все равно не получится (это результат долгой и технически сложной работы). Правильнее сделать что-то новое и необычное», — справедливо замечает Мещерякова. По ее словам, для создания похожего маникюра подойдут объемные декоративные элементы, изготовленные вручную из геля или пластика, — их можно смонтировать поверх прозрачных накладных ногтей или прямо поверх своих собственных. «Я делала подобную работу на одной из съемок. Но, чтобы носить такие „украшения“ и не потерять и не повредить их на протяжении, скажем, вечеринки, нужно быть очень аккуратным», — добавляет Даша.


Однако, прежде чем прикладывать столько усилий, стоит понять, есть ли у этого не самого практичного тренда перспективы? Евгения Голубева уверена, что есть: «Этот дизайн твердо вошел в ряды топовых, думаю, мы долго будем видеть вариации на его тему, — считает она. — Плюс его можно адаптировать под реальную жизнь — некоторые мои клиенты ходят с объемами на ногтях повседневно».


Верит в светлое будущее нейл-арта и Галина Смирнова, nail-тренер команды мастеров Kynsi — сети салонов, которая ассоциируется скорее с классическим клиентским дизайном, а не с креативными акриловыми скульптурами. «Современный потребитель очень поменялся. Ушли стереотипы, барьеры, стеснение. Появились новые ориентиры, например, звезды тиктока, которые определенно являются сейчас трендсеттерами, — говорит Галина. — Искусство на ногтях стало безобидным рычагом для самовыражения, раскрытия своего творческого потенциала». Она отмечает, что запрос на креативный маникюр у них заметно вырос — причем не только у женщин, но и у мужчин.


Даша Мещерякова видит на горизонте и компромиссный вариант объемного нейл-арта: «Нужно учитывать образ жизни, ведь ходить с такими ногтями, сохраняя их первозданный вид, непросто и отнюдь не практично. Думаю, что в ближайшем будущем станут более популярны накладные ногти „на выход“, на которых можно будет изобразить все что угодно».


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А Смирнова предлагает присмотреться к богатству материалов: не только к стразам и наклейкам, но и к искусственным фруктам и цветам, шипам, цепочкам, кольцам и далее по списку. А еще лучше подыскать мастера, который сможет создать необходимую форму из геля или акрила. «Главное, найти специалиста, который „заражен“ искусством и каждое ваше неожиданное решение будет принимать как вызов», — резюмирует Галина. Пусть ваша смелость вдохновит его на шедевр.

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