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Они везде: в видеоклипах, на обложках журналов, показах и, конечно, в инстаграме. Они необычные, безусловно красивые и сложно носибельные. Разбираемся, кто, зачем и как делает объемные, словно стеклянные ногти.


<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/CIWn0Xsl8r2/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" data-instgrm-version="13" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:540px; min-width:326px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"><div style="padding:16px;"> <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CIWn0Xsl8r2/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style=" background:#FFFFFF; line-height:0; padding:0 0; text-align:center; text-decoration:none; width:100%;" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noreferrer"> <div style=" display: flex; flex-direction: row; align-items: center;"> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 40px; margin-right: 14px; width: 40px;"></div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; 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Нейл-арт живее всех живых: стразами и орнаментами украшают ногти уже не только женщины, но и мужчины, к тому же для каждого ногтя выбирается индивидуальный дизайн. В довершение ко всем этим маленьким революциям нейл-арт уходит из привычной плоскости — в самом прямом геометрическом смысле. Все чаще можно встретить объемные ногти. Кто-то вылепливает на ногтевой пластине цветы, кто-то крепит на нее бутылочку Fairy, миниатюрный подъемный кран или человечка из акрила. Но самый модный объемный маникюр — сделанный словно из стекла.


За доказательствами далеко ходить не надо. Вы, возможно, входите в 20 с лишним миллионов человек, которые уже посмотрели вышедший в начале неделе клип Розалии и Bad Bunny. До этого «стеклянный» нейл-арт засветился в другом дуэте певицы — с Билли Айлиш. В клипе на песню Lo Vas a Olvidar так не похожие друг на друга в визуальном плане исполнительницы нашли-таки точку соприкосновения в нейл-арте (которым, к слову, обе увлекаются) — на ногтях у девушек можно рассмотреть словно застывшие причудливые всплески и пузырьки воды, которые появляются на водной глади во время дождя.

клип BAD BUNNY x ROSALÍA «LA NOCHE DE ANOCHE»

обложка i-D

Розалия в Клипе «Lo Vas a Olvidar»

Билли Айлиш в промо Клипа «Lo Vas a Olvidar»

А еще раньше прозрачные инопланетные цветы украсили ногти певицы без преувеличения легендарной — Бьорк появилась с ними на обложке юбилейного номера i-D.


На неделях моды проигнорировать такой яркий тренд, конечно, не могли — на недавнем показе Iris van Herpen все внимание было приковано к ногтям, выполненным в технике, которая получила название «экзоскелетный нейл-арт». Они стали одним из самых ярких событий прошедшего кутюра.


Что и говорить про инстаграм, где словно выполненный не нейл-стилистами, а стеклодувом маникюр появился гораздо раньше, чтобы остаться надолго.


Iris van Herpen, весна-лето 2021

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«Объемные элементы декора — это не новинка в нейл-арте: мастера из Восточной Азии делали из акрила зверей и фигурки, а российские — лепнину и цветы, — говорит Евгения Голубева, которая не раз создавала маникюр на съемках The Blueprint. — Сейчас в моду вошла объемная абстракция — и это, в общем, в духе времени». Растущую не первый год популярность объемного маникюра замечает и нейл-мастер Даша Мещерякова. «Появляется все больше новых креативных художников, которые выбирают для самовыражения руки и ногти. Они не думают об этом как о каких-то клиентских историях и о том, насколько это применимо в реальной жизни. Это просто один из их инструментов для творчества, — говорит она. — Очень радует, что с недавних пор эти мастера стали более заметны и привлекли внимание своими необычными работами, которые стали чем-то действительно новым и „просочились“ на съемки и даже на мировые подиумы».


Как сделать такой необычный маникюр? Нейл-стилист Соджин О, занимавшаяся ногтями Айлиш и Розалии, создавала объем с помощью стеклянных заготовок, сделанных художницей Грейс Уордлоу, и прозрачного геля The Gel Bottle.


Еще один вариант — 3D-принтер. Именно на нем был напечатан «экзоскелет» Iris van Herpen и маникюр Бьорк (в первом случае лавры достались Эйчи Мацунаге, во втором они поделены между ней и другим японским мастером — Томоей Накагавой).

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<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/CKsTeV1A7NE/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" data-instgrm-version="13" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:540px; min-width:326px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"><div style="padding:16px;"> <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CKsTeV1A7NE/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style=" background:#FFFFFF; line-height:0; padding:0 0; text-align:center; text-decoration:none; width:100%;" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noreferrer"> <div style=" display: flex; flex-direction: row; align-items: center;"> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 40px; margin-right: 14px; width: 40px;"></div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; 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Ни у вас, ни у вашего нейл-стилиста нет 3D и знакомого стеклодува? Это вовсе не значит, что можно забыть про подобный нейл-арт. «Я искренне восхищаюсь тем, что делает Эйчи Мацунага при помощи 3D-принтера. Но не нужно копировать, можно вдохновиться: лучше, чем оригинал, все равно не получится (это результат долгой и технически сложной работы). Правильнее сделать что-то новое и необычное», — справедливо замечает Мещерякова. По ее словам, для создания похожего маникюра подойдут объемные декоративные элементы, изготовленные вручную из геля или пластика, — их можно смонтировать поверх прозрачных накладных ногтей или прямо поверх своих собственных. «Я делала подобную работу на одной из съемок. Но, чтобы носить такие „украшения“ и не потерять и не повредить их на протяжении, скажем, вечеринки, нужно быть очень аккуратным», — добавляет Даша.


Однако, прежде чем прикладывать столько усилий, стоит понять, есть ли у этого не самого практичного тренда перспективы? Евгения Голубева уверена, что есть: «Этот дизайн твердо вошел в ряды топовых, думаю, мы долго будем видеть вариации на его тему, — считает она. — Плюс его можно адаптировать под реальную жизнь — некоторые мои клиенты ходят с объемами на ногтях повседневно».


Верит в светлое будущее нейл-арта и Галина Смирнова, nail-тренер команды мастеров Kynsi — сети салонов, которая ассоциируется скорее с классическим клиентским дизайном, а не с креативными акриловыми скульптурами. «Современный потребитель очень поменялся. Ушли стереотипы, барьеры, стеснение. Появились новые ориентиры, например, звезды тиктока, которые определенно являются сейчас трендсеттерами, — говорит Галина. — Искусство на ногтях стало безобидным рычагом для самовыражения, раскрытия своего творческого потенциала». Она отмечает, что запрос на креативный маникюр у них заметно вырос — причем не только у женщин, но и у мужчин.


Даша Мещерякова видит на горизонте и компромиссный вариант объемного нейл-арта: «Нужно учитывать образ жизни, ведь ходить с такими ногтями, сохраняя их первозданный вид, непросто и отнюдь не практично. Думаю, что в ближайшем будущем станут более популярны накладные ногти „на выход“, на которых можно будет изобразить все что угодно».


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А Смирнова предлагает присмотреться к богатству материалов: не только к стразам и наклейкам, но и к искусственным фруктам и цветам, шипам, цепочкам, кольцам и далее по списку. А еще лучше подыскать мастера, который сможет создать необходимую форму из геля или акрила. «Главное, найти специалиста, который „заражен“ искусством и каждое ваше неожиданное решение будет принимать как вызов», — резюмирует Галина. Пусть ваша смелость вдохновит его на шедевр.

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