Темы
T

Зачем кофеин добавляют в косметику

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Текст: Ирина Урнова
Иллюстрации: Мария Шуванова
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Вокруг кофе существует множество мифов , а дебаты, призванные ответить на вопрос «пить или не пить», не утихают. Куда проще разобраться в косметических свойствах кофеина. Рассказываем, почему сыворотка и крем для ног с этим ингредиентом пригодятся даже тем, кто решил отказаться от капучино по утрам.

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Что такое кофеин?

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Двести лет назад, в 1819 году, немецкий химик и медик Фридлиб Фердинанд Рунге выделил прозрачное кристаллизующееся вещество из зерен кофе и назвал его кофеином. Именно кофеин делает бодрящими и чай, и матте, и ягоды гуараны — вещества, выделенные из этих растений, называют теином, маттеином и гуаранином, но все это, по сути, одна и та же молекула. Кофеин стимулирует сердечно-сосудистую, пищеварительную и нервную системы, что делает его хорошим дижестивом и природным энергетиком — для того, чтобы избавиться от тяжести после обильного обеда или приятно взбодриться, достаточно одной-двух порций кофе. Однако стоит увлечься — и от хорошего самочувствия не останется и следа, зато появятся скачки давления, учащенное сердцебиение, потливость и дрожь в конечностях.

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Как работает кофеин?

Принцип работы кофеина можно описать коротко — он способствует быстрому увеличению количества циклического аденозинмонофосфата (АМФ), или понятно — под его воздействием активнее вырабатывается вещество, стимулирующее процессы в клетках. Список этих метаболических процессов очень широк: липолиз, то есть расщепление жира, гликогенолиз, то есть расщепление гликогена до глюкозы, клеточная регенерация, жидкостный обмен и многое другое. Буквально за считаные минуты после того, как мы выпиваем чашку кофе или крепкого чая, в организме уменьшается количество фермента фосфодиэстеразы, задача которого тот самый АМФ разрушать. За счет того, что разрушения не происходит, АМФ накапливается в клетках, активно стимулирует все, что может, и мы чувствуем прилив бодрости и сил. При нанесении средства с кофеином на кожу случается схожая история — в клетках активизируются все процессы, особенно те, которые до того были замедлены. Как пишет в своей книге «Наука красоты» врач-косметолог Тийна Орасмяэ-Медер, молекула кофеина сравнительно мала, поэтому способна проникать довольно глубоко в кожу — за несколько минут она достигает подкожного жира. Это делает кофеин (а также экстракт зеленого чая и гуараны) одним из самых популярных ингредиентов в косметике против отечности, целлюлита, унылого цвета лица, возрастных изменений, а также в средствах для борьбы с жировыми отложениями, особенно в области второго подбородка и на скулах.

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Что он делает в кремах для лица?

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В средствах для области вокруг глаз и для лица кофеин помогает снять уже сформировавшийся отек или не допустить его в будущем, эффективно борется с мешками под глазами и слегка тонизирует кожу, визуально делая ее более подтянутой и молодой. Если проблема временная — например, утро после бурной вечеринки, — патчей или маски с кофеином будет вполне достаточно. Но для работы с мешками, хронической отечностью, слабым тонусом и вялым тургором понадобится артиллерия посерьезнее — разового нанесения, скорее всего, не хватит. Тут на помощь может прийти сыворотка с 3–5% кофеина — экспозиция, то есть воздействие ингредиентов на кожу, будет дольше, ведь сыворотку мы наносим на весь день (или на ночь).


В косметике для сухой кожи кофеину тоже находится почетное место благодаря его способности стимулировать синтез холестерина — липида, необходимого для создания защитной мантии на поверхности эпидермиса. По этой же причине тонизирующий компонент часто добавляют в антивозрастные средства, ведь с возрастом кожа вырабатывает липиды все медленнее и хуже, а кофеин эту проблему если не устраняет, то значительно уменьшает. Помогает он коже и быстрее восстановиться за счет стимуляции регенерационных процессов — например, после солнечного ожога.

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Сыворотка Caffeine Solution 5%+EGCG, The Ordinary

Крем для век Ideal Ressource Eye, Darphin

Очищающая маска для лица Ginzing, Origins

Как кофеин помогает похудеть?

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В антицеллюлитных и жиросжигающих средствах кофеин действует очень эффективно, несмотря на некоторый скептицизм отдельно взятых специалистов и потребителей. Он действительно способен проникнуть в кожу довольно глубоко, усилить расщепление жира и оказать лимфодренажный эффект. Происходит это за счет стимулирующего действия на бета-адренорецепторы, которые находятся в жировой ткани и отвечают за запуск процессов жиросжигания, водно-солевой обмен, а также за повышение теплопродукции и выделение энергии из жировых запасов клетки. Конечно, уменьшиться на пару размеров только благодаря крему не удастся, да и для избавления от целлюлита (если он действительно мешает вам жить) нужны комплексные меры, но заметно улучшить ситуацию косметике с кофеином может оказаться вполне под силу. Кроме того, этот ингредиент укрепляет внутренние стенки сосудов и способствует их расширению, а также используется как венотоник — полезный в борьбе с «тяжелыми» ногами и отечностостью. Правда, к окончательному выводу, как именно ему это удается, ученые пока не пришли.

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Сыворотка для тела Booty Dance Booster, Mixit

Антицеллюлитный крем Slim Logic, Guinot

Антицеллюлитный гель Celulex, Sesderma

Антицеллюлитные ампулы Refine Cellular, Babor

Кофейный «Чудо-скраб», Anne Gale

А в средствах от выпадения волос он зачем?

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Общее стимулирующее действие кофеина проложило ему путь и в средства для кожи головы — особенно часто его используют в линиях для борьбы с выпадением волос и для ускорения их роста, а также в шампунях и масках для ослабленных и тонких волос. Ценят и способность этого вещества слегка усиливать свойства ингредиентов, соседствующих с ним в составе, — так, к примеру, в тониках и шампунях против облысения кофеин нередко выступает в паре с миноксидилом и его производными.

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Шампунь Caffeine Shampoo, Alpecin

Антивозрастной шампунь ExtraHair, Schoenenberger

Ночная сыворотка для кожи головы Night Density Rescue, Nioxin

Сыворотка против выпадения волос Cure De Force Antichute, Klorane

Как выбрать правильное средство?


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Прежде чем сметать с прилавков все средства с кофеином, следует обратить внимание на его концентрацию в составе: оптимальная составляет 1–5%. Для сравнения, в вашем свежесваренном кофе концентрация кофеина едва ли превысит 0,2%. Поэтому рассчитывать на волшебный эффект скраба с кофейной гущей не стоит. Его максимум — улучшить тонус, укрепить сосуды и повысить уровень увлажненности. Кроме того, он способен придать коже легкий оттенок загара, который, впрочем, легко может перебраться на полотенце и одежду.


Перебарщивать с содержащей кофеин косметикой тоже не стоит. В больших количествах кофеин может раздражать кожу (особенно если она чувствительная), так что использовать антицеллюлитные и жиросжигающие средства для тела на лице в надежде побыстрее его «похудеть» — идея так себе. Если неприятность случилась и кожа отреагировала на кофеин в косметике покраснением, зудом или жжением, лучше на время прекратить использовать эти средства и перейти на успокаивающие и восстанавливающие.

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Лучшие материалы The Blueprint
в нашем канале на Яндекс.Дзен

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