T

Самое интересное на неделях моды сезона

весна-лето 2019

Текст: Ксения Крушинская, Варя Баркалова

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Нью-Йорк

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Выступления дрэг-квин на нью-йоркских показах

Calvin Klein и продолжение хоррор-тематики

Новый виток популярности дрэга в Америке затронул и неделю моды: на показе The Blonds было несколько дрэг-див в качестве моделей, а шоу Opening Ceremony целиком состояло из их выступлений, а курировала его Саша Велюр. 

Раф Симонс снова посмотрел классику фильмов ужасов – на этот раз фильм «Челюсти», которому посвятил ему целый показ: постеры картины на майках, «обкусанные» юбки, гидрокостюмы и красные шапочки как у Жака-Ива Кусто.

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margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/Bnj4SUMn3sd/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_medium=loading" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none;" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">Публикация от THE BLONDS (@theblondsny)</a> <time style=" font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px;" datetime="2018-09-10T21:25:52+00:00">10 Сен 2018 в 2:25 PDT</time></p></div></blockquote> <script async defer src="//www.instagram.com/embed.js"></script>
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margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BnreNfVnqYr/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_medium=loading" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none;" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">Публикация от THE BLONDS (@theblondsny)</a> <time style=" font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px;" datetime="2018-09-13T20:11:57+00:00">13 Сен 2018 в 1:11 PDT</time></p></div></blockquote> <script async defer src="//www.instagram.com/embed.js"></script>
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Красивый, но сильно задержавшийся показ Marc Jacobs

Суперинклюзивный показ Savage x Fenty 

Показ Marc Jacobs задержался на полтора часа. Поскольку это был не первый раз, когда Марк так поздно начинал шоу, дизайнер публично – и очень трогательно – извинился, за что получил от Сары Андельман тематическую футболку.

В качестве моделей для презентации новой коллекции своей марки нижнего белья Рианна позвала девушек разного телосложения и этнической принадлежности. Были даже беременные. Одна из них – модель Слик Вудс – отправилась в роддом сразу после шоу.

<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/Bnpq9H3DzGy/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_medium=loading" data-instgrm-version="12" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:540px; min-width:326px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"><div style="padding:16px;"> <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/Bnpq9H3DzGy/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_medium=loading" style=" background:#FFFFFF; line-height:0; padding:0 0; text-align:center; text-decoration:none; width:100%;" target="_blank" rel="nofollow"> <div style=" display: flex; flex-direction: row; align-items: center;"> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 40px; margin-right: 14px; width: 40px;"></div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; 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margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/Bnpq9H3DzGy/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_medium=loading" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none;" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">Публикация от Marc Jacobs (@marcjacobs)</a> <time style=" font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px;" datetime="2018-09-13T03:24:49+00:00">12 Сен 2018 в 8:24 PDT</time></p></div></blockquote> <script async defer src="//www.instagram.com/embed.js"></script>
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margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BnsOlAehLex/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_medium=loading" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none;" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">Публикация от Marc Jacobs (@themarcjacobs)</a> <time style=" font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px;" datetime="2018-09-14T03:14:35+00:00">13 Сен 2018 в 8:14 PDT</time></p></div></blockquote> <script async defer src="//www.instagram.com/embed.js"></script>
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лондон

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Дебют Рикардо Тиши в Burberry

Юбилейный показ Mary Katrantzou 

Кульминация лондонской недели моды – первый показ нового креативного директора Burberry Рикардо Тиши. Коллекция получилась большой и разной – тут и расслабленные рубашки с новой монограммой, и плиссированные юбки, и вечерние наряды, и странные, но интересные детали.

Марке Mary Katrantzou в этом году исполнилось 10 лет. В честь этого Мэри Картанзу придумала грандиозный финал юбилейного шоу с хитами из прошлых коллекций.

<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/Bn1ybMzHP68/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_medium=loading" data-instgrm-version="12" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:540px; min-width:326px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"><div style="padding:16px;"> <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/Bn1ybMzHP68/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_medium=loading" style=" background:#FFFFFF; line-height:0; padding:0 0; text-align:center; text-decoration:none; width:100%;" target="_blank" rel="nofollow"> <div style=" display: flex; flex-direction: row; align-items: center;"> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 40px; margin-right: 14px; width: 40px;"></div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 100px;"></div> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 60px;"></div></div></div><div style="padding: 19% 0;"></div><div style="display:block; height:50px; margin:0 auto 12px; width:50px;"><svg width="50px" height="50px" viewBox="0 0 60 60" version="1.1" xmlns="https://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="https://www.w3.org/1999/xlink"><g stroke="none" stroke-width="1" fill="none" fill-rule="evenodd"><g transform="translate(-511.000000, -20.000000)" fill="#000000"><g><path d="M556.869,30.41 C554.814,30.41 553.148,32.076 553.148,34.131 C553.148,36.186 554.814,37.852 556.869,37.852 C558.924,37.852 560.59,36.186 560.59,34.131 C560.59,32.076 558.924,30.41 556.869,30.41 M541,60.657 C535.114,60.657 530.342,55.887 530.342,50 C530.342,44.114 535.114,39.342 541,39.342 C546.887,39.342 551.658,44.114 551.658,50 C551.658,55.887 546.887,60.657 541,60.657 M541,33.886 C532.1,33.886 524.886,41.1 524.886,50 C524.886,58.899 532.1,66.113 541,66.113 C549.9,66.113 557.115,58.899 557.115,50 C557.115,41.1 549.9,33.886 541,33.886 M565.378,62.101 C565.244,65.022 564.756,66.606 564.346,67.663 C563.803,69.06 563.154,70.057 562.106,71.106 C561.058,72.155 560.06,72.803 558.662,73.347 C557.607,73.757 556.021,74.244 553.102,74.378 C549.944,74.521 548.997,74.552 541,74.552 C533.003,74.552 532.056,74.521 528.898,74.378 C525.979,74.244 524.393,73.757 523.338,73.347 C521.94,72.803 520.942,72.155 519.894,71.106 C518.846,70.057 518.197,69.06 517.654,67.663 C517.244,66.606 516.755,65.022 516.623,62.101 C516.479,58.943 516.448,57.996 516.448,50 C516.448,42.003 516.479,41.056 516.623,37.899 C516.755,34.978 517.244,33.391 517.654,32.338 C518.197,30.938 518.846,29.942 519.894,28.894 C520.942,27.846 521.94,27.196 523.338,26.654 C524.393,26.244 525.979,25.756 528.898,25.623 C532.057,25.479 533.004,25.448 541,25.448 C548.997,25.448 549.943,25.479 553.102,25.623 C556.021,25.756 557.607,26.244 558.662,26.654 C560.06,27.196 561.058,27.846 562.106,28.894 C563.154,29.942 563.803,30.938 564.346,32.338 C564.756,33.391 565.244,34.978 565.378,37.899 C565.522,41.056 565.552,42.003 565.552,50 C565.552,57.996 565.522,58.943 565.378,62.101 M570.82,37.631 C570.674,34.438 570.167,32.258 569.425,30.349 C568.659,28.377 567.633,26.702 565.965,25.035 C564.297,23.368 562.623,22.342 560.652,21.575 C558.743,20.834 556.562,20.326 553.369,20.18 C550.169,20.033 549.148,20 541,20 C532.853,20 531.831,20.033 528.631,20.18 C525.438,20.326 523.257,20.834 521.349,21.575 C519.376,22.342 517.703,23.368 516.035,25.035 C514.368,26.702 513.342,28.377 512.574,30.349 C511.834,32.258 511.326,34.438 511.181,37.631 C511.035,40.831 511,41.851 511,50 C511,58.147 511.035,59.17 511.181,62.369 C511.326,65.562 511.834,67.743 512.574,69.651 C513.342,71.625 514.368,73.296 516.035,74.965 C517.703,76.634 519.376,77.658 521.349,78.425 C523.257,79.167 525.438,79.673 528.631,79.82 C531.831,79.965 532.853,80.001 541,80.001 C549.148,80.001 550.169,79.965 553.369,79.82 C556.562,79.673 558.743,79.167 560.652,78.425 C562.623,77.658 564.297,76.634 565.965,74.965 C567.633,73.296 568.659,71.625 569.425,69.651 C570.167,67.743 570.674,65.562 570.82,62.369 C570.966,59.17 571,58.147 571,50 C571,41.851 570.966,40.831 570.82,37.631"></path></g></g></g></svg></div><div style="padding-top: 8px;"> <div style=" color:#3897f0; 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margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/Bn1ybMzHP68/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_medium=loading" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none;" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">Публикация от Burberry (@burberry)</a> <time style=" font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px;" datetime="2018-09-17T20:24:04+00:00">17 Сен 2018 в 1:24 PDT</time></p></div></blockquote> <script async defer src="//www.instagram.com/embed.js"></script>
<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/Bn3pKZvlsnK/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_medium=loading" data-instgrm-version="12" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:540px; min-width:326px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"><div style="padding:16px;"> <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/Bn3pKZvlsnK/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_medium=loading" style=" background:#FFFFFF; line-height:0; padding:0 0; text-align:center; text-decoration:none; width:100%;" target="_blank" rel="nofollow"> <div style=" display: flex; flex-direction: row; align-items: center;"> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 40px; margin-right: 14px; width: 40px;"></div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 100px;"></div> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 60px;"></div></div></div><div style="padding: 19% 0;"></div><div style="display:block; height:50px; margin:0 auto 12px; width:50px;"><svg width="50px" height="50px" viewBox="0 0 60 60" version="1.1" xmlns="https://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="https://www.w3.org/1999/xlink"><g stroke="none" stroke-width="1" fill="none" fill-rule="evenodd"><g transform="translate(-511.000000, -20.000000)" fill="#000000"><g><path d="M556.869,30.41 C554.814,30.41 553.148,32.076 553.148,34.131 C553.148,36.186 554.814,37.852 556.869,37.852 C558.924,37.852 560.59,36.186 560.59,34.131 C560.59,32.076 558.924,30.41 556.869,30.41 M541,60.657 C535.114,60.657 530.342,55.887 530.342,50 C530.342,44.114 535.114,39.342 541,39.342 C546.887,39.342 551.658,44.114 551.658,50 C551.658,55.887 546.887,60.657 541,60.657 M541,33.886 C532.1,33.886 524.886,41.1 524.886,50 C524.886,58.899 532.1,66.113 541,66.113 C549.9,66.113 557.115,58.899 557.115,50 C557.115,41.1 549.9,33.886 541,33.886 M565.378,62.101 C565.244,65.022 564.756,66.606 564.346,67.663 C563.803,69.06 563.154,70.057 562.106,71.106 C561.058,72.155 560.06,72.803 558.662,73.347 C557.607,73.757 556.021,74.244 553.102,74.378 C549.944,74.521 548.997,74.552 541,74.552 C533.003,74.552 532.056,74.521 528.898,74.378 C525.979,74.244 524.393,73.757 523.338,73.347 C521.94,72.803 520.942,72.155 519.894,71.106 C518.846,70.057 518.197,69.06 517.654,67.663 C517.244,66.606 516.755,65.022 516.623,62.101 C516.479,58.943 516.448,57.996 516.448,50 C516.448,42.003 516.479,41.056 516.623,37.899 C516.755,34.978 517.244,33.391 517.654,32.338 C518.197,30.938 518.846,29.942 519.894,28.894 C520.942,27.846 521.94,27.196 523.338,26.654 C524.393,26.244 525.979,25.756 528.898,25.623 C532.057,25.479 533.004,25.448 541,25.448 C548.997,25.448 549.943,25.479 553.102,25.623 C556.021,25.756 557.607,26.244 558.662,26.654 C560.06,27.196 561.058,27.846 562.106,28.894 C563.154,29.942 563.803,30.938 564.346,32.338 C564.756,33.391 565.244,34.978 565.378,37.899 C565.522,41.056 565.552,42.003 565.552,50 C565.552,57.996 565.522,58.943 565.378,62.101 M570.82,37.631 C570.674,34.438 570.167,32.258 569.425,30.349 C568.659,28.377 567.633,26.702 565.965,25.035 C564.297,23.368 562.623,22.342 560.652,21.575 C558.743,20.834 556.562,20.326 553.369,20.18 C550.169,20.033 549.148,20 541,20 C532.853,20 531.831,20.033 528.631,20.18 C525.438,20.326 523.257,20.834 521.349,21.575 C519.376,22.342 517.703,23.368 516.035,25.035 C514.368,26.702 513.342,28.377 512.574,30.349 C511.834,32.258 511.326,34.438 511.181,37.631 C511.035,40.831 511,41.851 511,50 C511,58.147 511.035,59.17 511.181,62.369 C511.326,65.562 511.834,67.743 512.574,69.651 C513.342,71.625 514.368,73.296 516.035,74.965 C517.703,76.634 519.376,77.658 521.349,78.425 C523.257,79.167 525.438,79.673 528.631,79.82 C531.831,79.965 532.853,80.001 541,80.001 C549.148,80.001 550.169,79.965 553.369,79.82 C556.562,79.673 558.743,79.167 560.652,78.425 C562.623,77.658 564.297,76.634 565.965,74.965 C567.633,73.296 568.659,71.625 569.425,69.651 C570.167,67.743 570.674,65.562 570.82,62.369 C570.966,59.17 571,58.147 571,50 C571,41.851 570.966,40.831 570.82,37.631"></path></g></g></g></svg></div><div style="padding-top: 8px;"> <div style=" color:#3897f0; 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margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/Bn3pKZvlsnK/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_medium=loading" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none;" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">Публикация от The Bite Magazine (@thebitemag)</a> <time style=" font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px;" datetime="2018-09-18T13:53:29+00:00">18 Сен 2018 в 6:53 PDT</time></p></div></blockquote> <script async defer src="//www.instagram.com/embed.js"></script>

Полностью черные выходы Richard Quinn 

Дизайнер Ричард Куинн, в прошлом сезоне получивший награду из рук королевы Елизаветы II, в этот раз, кроме ожидаемых платьев с цветочным принтом, показал абсолютно черные образы — от носков сапог до длинных перчаток и закрытых черным лиц, ни сантиметра голой кожи!

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милан

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Вторая часть проекта Prada Invites

Вторая часть проекта Prada Invites

Коллекция Moschino и обвинения в плагиате

На показе Prada было немало интересного – чего стоят хотя бы дутые ободки, которые мы увидим в доброй половине модных съемок через полгода. Но отдельно хочется отметить новую серию проекта Prada Invites – так сказать, female edition: три женщины-архитектора создали нейлоновые объекты для бренда.



Новая ироничная коллекция Джереми Скотта для Moschino вызвала негодование у дизайнера Эдды Гимнес: она обвинила Скотта в плагиате, а он, внезапно, ответил детальным разбором своих референсов.

Модели с тремя грудями на показе GCDS

Шах и мат, Алессандро Микеле. Дизайнеры молодой итальянской марки GCDS придумали кое-что покруче отрезанных голов: модели на их показе ходили по подиуму с накладками, имитирующими третью грудь. Довольно остроумный способ заявить о себе.

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париж

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Живое выступление Джейн Биркин на Gucci

Танцевальный перформанс на шоу Dior

Коллекция Марии Грации Кьюри была посвящена танцу и выдающимся женщинам-хореографам – Айседоре Дункан, Марте Грэм, Лои Фуллер. Выступление артистов израильской труппы L-E-V Dance наглядно проиллюстрировало главную тему показа. Девять танцовщиков и танцовщиц танцевали в трико телесного цвета, дизайн которых тоже придумала Кьюри. Принты на костюмах танцоров символизировали четыре элемента стихии, а их месторасположение было призвано отметить самые важные чакры на человеческом теле.

Сезонный показ марки впервые прошел не в Милане, а в Париже – что само по себе достойно упоминания. Особенную атмосферу помогло создать, с одной стороны, место проведения – интерьеры некогда легендарного клуба Le Palace – с другой, специальные «фишки», вроде продуманной сценографии и, собственно, выступления Биркин. В середине показа она встала со своего места в первом ряду и спела песню Сержа Генсбурга Baby Alone In Babylone.

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margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BoJISOHAgqb/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_medium=loading" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none;" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">Публикация от bone magazine (@bonemagazine)</a> <time style=" font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px;" datetime="2018-09-25T08:45:45+00:00">25 Сен 2018 в 1:45 PDT</time></p></div></blockquote> <script async defer src="//www.instagram.com/embed.js"></script>
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Дебют Эди Слимана в Celine

Эффектное шоу Balenciaga

Впечатлила на этот раз не только коллекция, непривычно элегантная для Демны, но и оформление подиума от художника Джона Рафмана. В пол и в своды были вмонтированы экраны, на которых транслировались абстрактные видео.

Один из самых ожидаемых показов сезона разделил всех неравнодушных на два лагеря: за Céline и за Celine. Большинство модных критиков все же примкнули к первому и не устают в самых резких выражениях изобличать Слимана и его сексуальную и восьмидесятническую коллекцию, полностью разрушившую ДНК бренда, каким его привыкли видеть при Фиби Файло. Что ж, нам снова есть, что обсудить и о чем поспорить. Хотя бы за это Эди стоит поблагодарить.

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Стул на голове на показе Vivienne Westwood

Морские обитатели у Thom Browne

Андреас Кронталер продолжает стирать границы между модным показом и авангардным перформансом. У одной из моделей в качестве аксессуара был на голове стул. Да не обычный, а цвета фуксии.

Море волнуется раз! Тема подводного мира у Тома Брауна не ограничилась принтами на одежде: у одной модели, например, платье состояло из сшитых морских звезд, а другая шла в юбке-рачьем хвосте и с клешнями. Лично мы бы многое отдали за жакет с объемными тканевыми актиниями. И не спрашивайте, куда мы собираемся его носить.

Импровизированный пляж на показе Chanel 

Как всегда, показ Chanel прошел в Гран-Пале, и как всегда – с масштабным сет-дизайном. На этот раз там был настоящий пляж – с песком, имитацией набегающей волны, вышками со спасателями и пляжными стульями для гостей. А модели ходили босиком и с туфлями в руках.

Лучшие материалы The Blueprint в нашем канале на Яндекс.Дзен.

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