Специальные выпуски
Специальные выпуски

Blueprint
T
МОДА•ИНДУСТРИЯ

Временно
недоступны 

Текст: АЛЕНА ВАЖЕНИНА

Модная индустрия чутко реагирует на политические события. Пока одни бренды публикуют в своих соцсетях призывы к миру и переводят средства благотворительным организациям, другие приостанавливают работу на российском рынке. Фиксируем, как развивались события (материал будет обновляться).

24 ФЕВРАЛЯ

2022

В день, когда стало известно о начале «специальной военной операции» в Украине, по всей России закрылись бутики брендов конгломерата Richemont (в их числе Cartier, Piaget, IWC и Montblanc). В этот же день один из брендов группы, Van Cleef & Arpels, сообщил, что ювелирная выставка Florae (которая должна была открыться в Москве 28 февраля), переносится на неопределенный срок. Через три дня, в субботу, 26 февраля, бутики Richemont снова открылись — и работают до сих пор. Комментировать ситуацию французский конгломерат отказался.


<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/CT9lD2ltx4j/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" data-instgrm-version="14" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:540px; min-width:326px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"><div style="padding:16px;"> <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CT9lD2ltx4j/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style=" background:#FFFFFF; line-height:0; padding:0 0; text-align:center; text-decoration:none; width:100%;" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noreferrer"> <div style=" display: flex; flex-direction: row; align-items: center;"> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 40px; margin-right: 14px; width: 40px;"></div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 100px;"></div> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 60px;"></div></div></div><div style="padding: 19% 0;"></div> <div style="display:block; height:50px; margin:0 auto 12px; width:50px;"><svg width="50px" height="50px" viewBox="0 0 60 60" version="1.1" xmlns="https://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="https://www.w3.org/1999/xlink"><g stroke="none" stroke-width="1" fill="none" fill-rule="evenodd"><g transform="translate(-511.000000, -20.000000)" fill="#000000"><g><path d="M556.869,30.41 C554.814,30.41 553.148,32.076 553.148,34.131 C553.148,36.186 554.814,37.852 556.869,37.852 C558.924,37.852 560.59,36.186 560.59,34.131 C560.59,32.076 558.924,30.41 556.869,30.41 M541,60.657 C535.114,60.657 530.342,55.887 530.342,50 C530.342,44.114 535.114,39.342 541,39.342 C546.887,39.342 551.658,44.114 551.658,50 C551.658,55.887 546.887,60.657 541,60.657 M541,33.886 C532.1,33.886 524.886,41.1 524.886,50 C524.886,58.899 532.1,66.113 541,66.113 C549.9,66.113 557.115,58.899 557.115,50 C557.115,41.1 549.9,33.886 541,33.886 M565.378,62.101 C565.244,65.022 564.756,66.606 564.346,67.663 C563.803,69.06 563.154,70.057 562.106,71.106 C561.058,72.155 560.06,72.803 558.662,73.347 C557.607,73.757 556.021,74.244 553.102,74.378 C549.944,74.521 548.997,74.552 541,74.552 C533.003,74.552 532.056,74.521 528.898,74.378 C525.979,74.244 524.393,73.757 523.338,73.347 C521.94,72.803 520.942,72.155 519.894,71.106 C518.846,70.057 518.197,69.06 517.654,67.663 C517.244,66.606 516.755,65.022 516.623,62.101 C516.479,58.943 516.448,57.996 516.448,50 C516.448,42.003 516.479,41.056 516.623,37.899 C516.755,34.978 517.244,33.391 517.654,32.338 C518.197,30.938 518.846,29.942 519.894,28.894 C520.942,27.846 521.94,27.196 523.338,26.654 C524.393,26.244 525.979,25.756 528.898,25.623 C532.057,25.479 533.004,25.448 541,25.448 C548.997,25.448 549.943,25.479 553.102,25.623 C556.021,25.756 557.607,26.244 558.662,26.654 C560.06,27.196 561.058,27.846 562.106,28.894 C563.154,29.942 563.803,30.938 564.346,32.338 C564.756,33.391 565.244,34.978 565.378,37.899 C565.522,41.056 565.552,42.003 565.552,50 C565.552,57.996 565.522,58.943 565.378,62.101 M570.82,37.631 C570.674,34.438 570.167,32.258 569.425,30.349 C568.659,28.377 567.633,26.702 565.965,25.035 C564.297,23.368 562.623,22.342 560.652,21.575 C558.743,20.834 556.562,20.326 553.369,20.18 C550.169,20.033 549.148,20 541,20 C532.853,20 531.831,20.033 528.631,20.18 C525.438,20.326 523.257,20.834 521.349,21.575 C519.376,22.342 517.703,23.368 516.035,25.035 C514.368,26.702 513.342,28.377 512.574,30.349 C511.834,32.258 511.326,34.438 511.181,37.631 C511.035,40.831 511,41.851 511,50 C511,58.147 511.035,59.17 511.181,62.369 C511.326,65.562 511.834,67.743 512.574,69.651 C513.342,71.625 514.368,73.296 516.035,74.965 C517.703,76.634 519.376,77.658 521.349,78.425 C523.257,79.167 525.438,79.673 528.631,79.82 C531.831,79.965 532.853,80.001 541,80.001 C549.148,80.001 550.169,79.965 553.369,79.82 C556.562,79.673 558.743,79.167 560.652,78.425 C562.623,77.658 564.297,76.634 565.965,74.965 C567.633,73.296 568.659,71.625 569.425,69.651 C570.167,67.743 570.674,65.562 570.82,62.369 C570.966,59.17 571,58.147 571,50 C571,41.851 570.966,40.831 570.82,37.631"></path></g></g></g></svg></div><div style="padding-top: 8px;"> <div style=" color:#3897f0; 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margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CT9lD2ltx4j/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none;" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Публикация от Van Cleef & Arpels (@vancleefarpels)</a></p></div></blockquote> <script async src="//www.instagram.com/embed.js"></script>

25 ФЕВРАЛЯ


<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/CapsZb5M4NT/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" data-instgrm-version="14" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:540px; min-width:326px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"><div style="padding:16px;"> <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CapsZb5M4NT/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style=" background:#FFFFFF; line-height:0; padding:0 0; text-align:center; text-decoration:none; width:100%;" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noreferrer"> <div style=" display: flex; flex-direction: row; align-items: center;"> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 40px; margin-right: 14px; width: 40px;"></div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 100px;"></div> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 60px;"></div></div></div><div style="padding: 19% 0;"></div> <div style="display:block; height:50px; margin:0 auto 12px; width:50px;"><svg width="50px" height="50px" viewBox="0 0 60 60" version="1.1" xmlns="https://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="https://www.w3.org/1999/xlink"><g stroke="none" stroke-width="1" fill="none" fill-rule="evenodd"><g transform="translate(-511.000000, -20.000000)" fill="#000000"><g><path d="M556.869,30.41 C554.814,30.41 553.148,32.076 553.148,34.131 C553.148,36.186 554.814,37.852 556.869,37.852 C558.924,37.852 560.59,36.186 560.59,34.131 C560.59,32.076 558.924,30.41 556.869,30.41 M541,60.657 C535.114,60.657 530.342,55.887 530.342,50 C530.342,44.114 535.114,39.342 541,39.342 C546.887,39.342 551.658,44.114 551.658,50 C551.658,55.887 546.887,60.657 541,60.657 M541,33.886 C532.1,33.886 524.886,41.1 524.886,50 C524.886,58.899 532.1,66.113 541,66.113 C549.9,66.113 557.115,58.899 557.115,50 C557.115,41.1 549.9,33.886 541,33.886 M565.378,62.101 C565.244,65.022 564.756,66.606 564.346,67.663 C563.803,69.06 563.154,70.057 562.106,71.106 C561.058,72.155 560.06,72.803 558.662,73.347 C557.607,73.757 556.021,74.244 553.102,74.378 C549.944,74.521 548.997,74.552 541,74.552 C533.003,74.552 532.056,74.521 528.898,74.378 C525.979,74.244 524.393,73.757 523.338,73.347 C521.94,72.803 520.942,72.155 519.894,71.106 C518.846,70.057 518.197,69.06 517.654,67.663 C517.244,66.606 516.755,65.022 516.623,62.101 C516.479,58.943 516.448,57.996 516.448,50 C516.448,42.003 516.479,41.056 516.623,37.899 C516.755,34.978 517.244,33.391 517.654,32.338 C518.197,30.938 518.846,29.942 519.894,28.894 C520.942,27.846 521.94,27.196 523.338,26.654 C524.393,26.244 525.979,25.756 528.898,25.623 C532.057,25.479 533.004,25.448 541,25.448 C548.997,25.448 549.943,25.479 553.102,25.623 C556.021,25.756 557.607,26.244 558.662,26.654 C560.06,27.196 561.058,27.846 562.106,28.894 C563.154,29.942 563.803,30.938 564.346,32.338 C564.756,33.391 565.244,34.978 565.378,37.899 C565.522,41.056 565.552,42.003 565.552,50 C565.552,57.996 565.522,58.943 565.378,62.101 M570.82,37.631 C570.674,34.438 570.167,32.258 569.425,30.349 C568.659,28.377 567.633,26.702 565.965,25.035 C564.297,23.368 562.623,22.342 560.652,21.575 C558.743,20.834 556.562,20.326 553.369,20.18 C550.169,20.033 549.148,20 541,20 C532.853,20 531.831,20.033 528.631,20.18 C525.438,20.326 523.257,20.834 521.349,21.575 C519.376,22.342 517.703,23.368 516.035,25.035 C514.368,26.702 513.342,28.377 512.574,30.349 C511.834,32.258 511.326,34.438 511.181,37.631 C511.035,40.831 511,41.851 511,50 C511,58.147 511.035,59.17 511.181,62.369 C511.326,65.562 511.834,67.743 512.574,69.651 C513.342,71.625 514.368,73.296 516.035,74.965 C517.703,76.634 519.376,77.658 521.349,78.425 C523.257,79.167 525.438,79.673 528.631,79.82 C531.831,79.965 532.853,80.001 541,80.001 C549.148,80.001 550.169,79.965 553.369,79.82 C556.562,79.673 558.743,79.167 560.652,78.425 C562.623,77.658 564.297,76.634 565.965,74.965 C567.633,73.296 568.659,71.625 569.425,69.651 C570.167,67.743 570.674,65.562 570.82,62.369 C570.966,59.17 571,58.147 571,50 C571,41.851 570.966,40.831 570.82,37.631"></path></g></g></g></svg></div><div style="padding-top: 8px;"> <div style=" color:#3897f0; 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margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CapsZb5M4NT/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none;" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Публикация от Missoni (@missoni)</a></p></div></blockquote> <script async src="//www.instagram.com/embed.js"></script>

После показа Missoni на неделе моды в Париже с антивоенным заявлением выступила Анджела Миссони, сказав, что никогда не будет занимать сторону агрессора при принятии решений. Сейчас российские клиенты не могут оформить заказ в официальном интернет-магазине Missoni.


1 марта

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После трех дней затишья 1 марта произошли первые ощутимые изменения в настрое зарубежных брендов по отношению к российскому рынку. В этот день команда киевского ЦУМа — директор по закупкам Ольга Чайка и директор по маркетингу Маруся Коваль — призвали люксовые бренды отказаться от поставок в Россию. Параллельно ретейл-платформы, принадлежащие компании Yoox Net-a-Porter Group (а именно Net-a-Porter, Mr Porter, Yoox и The Outnet), приостановили свою деятельность на территории России «ввиду сложившейся ситуации». Одновременно с ними обслуживать российских клиентов с такой же формулировкой отказался и сайт MatchesFashion. Вечером того же дня закрыл продажи для нас и сайт Nike. Сейчас товары спортивного бренда с доставкой «временно недоступны для данного региона». Впрочем, перечисленные компании публично не связывали подобные изменения в работе с политической позицией. Подобные решения могли стать следствиями проблем с логистикой.

2 марта

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2 марта стало известно, что DHL приостанавливают транспортные перевозки в РФ — и спустя несколько часов ожидаемо последовало объявление о том, что Farfetch временно не доставляет в Россию посылки из других стран.


В этот же день adidas «немедленно приостановили» сотрудничество с Российским футбольным союзом по контракту, который должен был действовать до 2026 года. При этом иных заявлений бренд пока не делал, а на сайте adidas все еще можно оформить заказ. Другой спортивный бренд, Puma, заявил о полном прекращении поставок в Россию. Правда, 100 магазинов по всей стране компания закрывать пока не планирует (да и на сайте можно оформить заказ, пока на складах есть оставшиеся товары).


Следом с заявлением о приостановке доставок выступил бренд Nanushka. Накануне марка показала новую коллекцию на неделе моды в Париже, после чего сразу заявила, что российские покупатели ее не получат. Далее доставку своих товаров приостановил Asos: «Приносим свои извинения, но сейчас и до дальнейших уведомлений мы не можем обрабатывать заказы от клиентов в России».


Вечером того же дня появилась информация о том, что уйти с российского рынка решили бренды шведского холдинга H&M Group — H&M, COS, Arket, &Other Stories, Monki и Weekday. Для нас недоступны интернет-сайты марок, а также физические магазины: по всей стране закрылось около 170 точек. К онлайн-платформам, которые приостанавливают доставку в Россию, присоединилась Mytheresa. А к брендам, для которых временно не существует российского рынка, — Ganni, Golden Goose и Burberry. Российский офис последнего, правда, пока не дает официальное заявление.

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3 марта

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margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CarKDAAqHiP/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none;" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Публикация от Acne Studios (@acnestudios)</a></p></div></blockquote> <script async src="//www.instagram.com/embed.js"></script>

Сразу после шоу на неделе моды в Париже заявление о временном отказе работать с российской аудиторией опубликовали Acne Studios. Вместе с этим бренд сообщил о том, что сделал пожертвования в UNHCR и UNICEF: деньги пойдут на гуманитарную помощь и поддержку «работы по оказанию чрезвычайной помощи в Украине и соседних странах». Уйти с российского рынка решила и команда Coperni. Дизайнеры бренда, Арно Вайан и Себастьян Мейер, рассказали, что с 2019 года часть коллекций отшивали в киевских ателье. Их мастерам и посвятили шоу осень—зима 22/23.


Днем 3 марта с сообщением о приостановке продаж в России выступила IKEA. Соответствующее заявление появилось в твиттере шведской компании: «Война в Украине ударит и по людям, и по цепочкам поставок, и по условиям для торговли. Поэтому руководство IKEA приняло решение приостановить все свои действия на территории России». Сразу после сообщения в сети стали появляться фотографии и видео очередей из российских покупателей, которые стремительно отправились за покупками в IKEA как в последний раз.


Вечером того же дня о прекращении работы на территории России заявили испанский бренд Mango, британский Marks & Spencer и лондонский Rejina Pyo. Основательница последнего, Реджина Пио, заявила, что «это шаг против вторжения, а не российских клиентов и партнеров».


<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/CapOs9-LrYa/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" data-instgrm-version="14" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:540px; min-width:326px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"><div style="padding:16px;"> <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CapOs9-LrYa/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style=" background:#FFFFFF; line-height:0; padding:0 0; text-align:center; text-decoration:none; width:100%;" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noreferrer"> <div style=" display: flex; flex-direction: row; align-items: center;"> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 40px; margin-right: 14px; width: 40px;"></div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; 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4 марта

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Онлайн-продажи в России прекратил и бренд Swarovski. Российский офис марки уточнил, что офлайновые магазины пока открыты. Сразу после публикации этой новости появились слухи о приостановке работы в России бутиков Hermès. В ответ на запрос The Blueprint представители компании в России подтвердили, что действительно магазины французского бренда закрываются на неопределенный срок.


5 марта

<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/CatvTA-NNAh/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" data-instgrm-version="14" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:540px; min-width:326px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"><div style="padding:16px;"> <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CatvTA-NNAh/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style=" background:#FFFFFF; line-height:0; padding:0 0; text-align:center; text-decoration:none; width:100%;" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noreferrer"> <div style=" display: flex; flex-direction: row; align-items: center;"> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 40px; margin-right: 14px; width: 40px;"></div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 100px;"></div> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 60px;"></div></div></div><div style="padding: 19% 0;"></div> <div style="display:block; height:50px; margin:0 auto 12px; width:50px;"><svg width="50px" height="50px" viewBox="0 0 60 60" version="1.1" xmlns="https://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="https://www.w3.org/1999/xlink"><g stroke="none" stroke-width="1" fill="none" fill-rule="evenodd"><g transform="translate(-511.000000, -20.000000)" fill="#000000"><g><path d="M556.869,30.41 C554.814,30.41 553.148,32.076 553.148,34.131 C553.148,36.186 554.814,37.852 556.869,37.852 C558.924,37.852 560.59,36.186 560.59,34.131 C560.59,32.076 558.924,30.41 556.869,30.41 M541,60.657 C535.114,60.657 530.342,55.887 530.342,50 C530.342,44.114 535.114,39.342 541,39.342 C546.887,39.342 551.658,44.114 551.658,50 C551.658,55.887 546.887,60.657 541,60.657 M541,33.886 C532.1,33.886 524.886,41.1 524.886,50 C524.886,58.899 532.1,66.113 541,66.113 C549.9,66.113 557.115,58.899 557.115,50 C557.115,41.1 549.9,33.886 541,33.886 M565.378,62.101 C565.244,65.022 564.756,66.606 564.346,67.663 C563.803,69.06 563.154,70.057 562.106,71.106 C561.058,72.155 560.06,72.803 558.662,73.347 C557.607,73.757 556.021,74.244 553.102,74.378 C549.944,74.521 548.997,74.552 541,74.552 C533.003,74.552 532.056,74.521 528.898,74.378 C525.979,74.244 524.393,73.757 523.338,73.347 C521.94,72.803 520.942,72.155 519.894,71.106 C518.846,70.057 518.197,69.06 517.654,67.663 C517.244,66.606 516.755,65.022 516.623,62.101 C516.479,58.943 516.448,57.996 516.448,50 C516.448,42.003 516.479,41.056 516.623,37.899 C516.755,34.978 517.244,33.391 517.654,32.338 C518.197,30.938 518.846,29.942 519.894,28.894 C520.942,27.846 521.94,27.196 523.338,26.654 C524.393,26.244 525.979,25.756 528.898,25.623 C532.057,25.479 533.004,25.448 541,25.448 C548.997,25.448 549.943,25.479 553.102,25.623 C556.021,25.756 557.607,26.244 558.662,26.654 C560.06,27.196 561.058,27.846 562.106,28.894 C563.154,29.942 563.803,30.938 564.346,32.338 C564.756,33.391 565.244,34.978 565.378,37.899 C565.522,41.056 565.552,42.003 565.552,50 C565.552,57.996 565.522,58.943 565.378,62.101 M570.82,37.631 C570.674,34.438 570.167,32.258 569.425,30.349 C568.659,28.377 567.633,26.702 565.965,25.035 C564.297,23.368 562.623,22.342 560.652,21.575 C558.743,20.834 556.562,20.326 553.369,20.18 C550.169,20.033 549.148,20 541,20 C532.853,20 531.831,20.033 528.631,20.18 C525.438,20.326 523.257,20.834 521.349,21.575 C519.376,22.342 517.703,23.368 516.035,25.035 C514.368,26.702 513.342,28.377 512.574,30.349 C511.834,32.258 511.326,34.438 511.181,37.631 C511.035,40.831 511,41.851 511,50 C511,58.147 511.035,59.17 511.181,62.369 C511.326,65.562 511.834,67.743 512.574,69.651 C513.342,71.625 514.368,73.296 516.035,74.965 C517.703,76.634 519.376,77.658 521.349,78.425 C523.257,79.167 525.438,79.673 528.631,79.82 C531.831,79.965 532.853,80.001 541,80.001 C549.148,80.001 550.169,79.965 553.369,79.82 C556.562,79.673 558.743,79.167 560.652,78.425 C562.623,77.658 564.297,76.634 565.965,74.965 C567.633,73.296 568.659,71.625 569.425,69.651 C570.167,67.743 570.674,65.562 570.82,62.369 C570.966,59.17 571,58.147 571,50 C571,41.851 570.966,40.831 570.82,37.631"></path></g></g></g></svg></div><div style="padding-top: 8px;"> <div style=" color:#3897f0; 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border-bottom: 2px solid transparent; transform: translateX(16px) translateY(-4px) rotate(30deg)"></div></div><div style="margin-left: auto;"> <div style=" width: 0px; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-right: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(16px);"></div> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; flex-grow: 0; height: 12px; width: 16px; transform: translateY(-4px);"></div> <div style=" width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-left: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(-4px) translateX(8px);"></div></div></div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center; margin-bottom: 24px;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 224px;"></div> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 144px;"></div></div></a><p style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CatvTA-NNAh/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none;" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Публикация от Gucci Official (@gucci)</a></p></div></blockquote> <script async src="//www.instagram.com/embed.js"></script>

В ночь с 4 на 5 марта о приостановке деятельности в России заявили люксовые конгломераты Kering (Balenciaga, Bottega Veneta, Gucci, Alexander McQueen и Saint Laurent) и LVMH (Louis Vuitton, Dior, Givenchy, Fendi, Kenzo, Loewe). Компании временно закроют все свои бутики по стране (Kering — те, которыми группа управляет напрямую). При этом сотрудники, временно отстраненные от работы, будут продолжать получать зарплаты. А в LVMH им смогут оказывать психологическую поддержку в рамках специальной программы фонда LVMH Heart Fund. Также торговлю для российских клиентов приостановил Chanel.


Но если отсутствие люксовых брендов в стране ощутит лишь ее малая часть, то выход с рынка компании Inditex, скорее всего, поставит в тупик очень многих российских покупателей. Испанский холдинг, которому принадлежат Zara, Pull&Bear, Massimo Dutti, Bershka, Stradivarius, Oysho, Zara Home и Uterqüe, выступил с заявлением о прекращении работы в России в этот же день. В общей сложности, по стране закроется 502 магазина (86 из них — Zara). При этом более 9000 сотрудникам будет оказана «специальная поддержка» со стороны компании.

Есть и бренды, которые реагируют на ситуацию не так резко. Valentino, Skims, Under Armour, Giorgio Armani, а также ретейлер Talbots и конгломерат OTB Foundation за прошедшую неделю выступили с заявлениями в поддержку Украины и всех пострадавших за время военной спецоперации, а также сделали крупные пожертвования в пользу пострадавших. Продажи в России они пока не прекращают.

<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/CasdZIqv_rR/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" data-instgrm-version="14" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:540px; min-width:326px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"><div style="padding:16px;"> <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CasdZIqv_rR/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style=" background:#FFFFFF; line-height:0; padding:0 0; text-align:center; text-decoration:none; width:100%;" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noreferrer"> <div style=" display: flex; flex-direction: row; align-items: center;"> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 40px; margin-right: 14px; width: 40px;"></div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; 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margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CaVBKIBtMGH/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none;" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Публикация от ZARA Official (@zara)</a></p></div></blockquote> <script async src="//www.instagram.com/embed.js"></script>
<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/CauJK3eo1VF/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" data-instgrm-version="14" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:540px; min-width:326px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"><div style="padding:16px;"> <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CauJK3eo1VF/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style=" background:#FFFFFF; line-height:0; padding:0 0; text-align:center; text-decoration:none; width:100%;" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noreferrer"> <div style=" display: flex; flex-direction: row; align-items: center;"> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 40px; margin-right: 14px; width: 40px;"></div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; 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6 марта

Утром 6 марта в пресс-службе Prada подтвердили, что в России временно прекращают деятельность магазины Prada Group, а именно бутики Prada и Miu Miu. Вечером о закрытии физических магазинов на территории РФ заявила компания PVH Corp, владеющая брендами Tommy Hilfiger, Calvin Klein, Warner’s и другими. Представители группы также напомнили, что приостановили работу российских интернет-магазинов еще 28 февраля, вскоре после начала специальной военной операции в Украине.

7 марта

Levi Strauss & Co выпустили официальное заявление, где рассказали о новых условиях работы с Россией. В компании подчеркнули, что приостановка работы в стране — временная мера, и пообещали поддерживать в эти месяцы сотрудников, отстраненных от дел.

8 марта

К числу спортивных гигантов, разорвавших отношения с Россией, присоединился adidas. «Мы решили приостановить работу наших магазинов и нашего онлайн-магазина в России до дальнейшего уведомления. Мы продолжаем платить нашим сотрудникам», — говорится в опубликованном заявлении бренда.

9 марта

К массовому выходу с российского рынка начали присоединяться и производители часов. Так, о приостановке деятельности в России заявили 9 марта сразу две швейцарские компании — Rolex и Swatch Group. При этом в последней рассказали, что увольнять российских сотрудников не собираются и надеются, что ситуация вскоре улучшится.


Вслед за ними закрыл свои офлайн- и онлайн-магазины бельевой бренд Victoria’s Secret. Вечером заявление сделал Reebok: отключил интернет-магазин, а розничные точки пообещал закрыть с 13 марта.


10 марта

Утром стало известно, что онлайн- и офлайн-продажи на территории России приостанавливает бренд Crocs. Одновременно с этим поставки в нашу страну прекратил Boss.


Позже с таким же заявлением выступила японская компания Fast Retailing Co., которая управляет сетью Uniqlo. Ранее бренд сообщал, что не собирается уходить из России, однако, столкнувшись с большим давлением в соцсетях, изменил свое решение. В своем обращении представители компании сослались на «ухудшение конфликтной ситуации» и возникший в ведении бизнеса «ряд трудностей». Магазины Uniqlo пообещали закрыть 21 марта.


Деловые отношения с Россией 10 марта разорвала и ювелирная компания Pandora. Ее представители рассказали, что в стране нет сотрудников бренда, как и принадлежащих ей магазинов. Все контролировалось местными дистрибьюторами.

11 марта

О своем решении приостановить деятельность в РФ заявила компания EssilorLuxottica, в которую входят Ray-Ban, а также линии очков Prada, Burberry, Tiffany & Co., Bvlgari, Valentino, Chanel, Versace, Michael Kors и многих других брендов. При этом представители группы заверили, что компания продолжит «предоставлять необходимые услуги по уходу за зрением в соответствии со своей миссией».


Есть и бренды, которые реагируют на ситуацию не так резко. Valentino, Skims, Under Armour, Giorgio Armani, а также ретейлер Talbots и конгломерат OTB Foundation за прошедшие дни выступили с заявлениями в поддержку Украины и всех пострадавших за время военной спецоперации, а также сделали крупные пожертвования в пользу пострадавших. Продажи в России они пока не прекращают.


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