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Чувство «Эйфории»

Второй сезон «Эйфории» подошел к концу: финальный эпизод уже можно посмотреть на HBO и «Амедиатеке». Продолжение подростковой драмы Сэма Левинсона побило рекорды HBO («Эйфория» — самая успешная премьера в истории стриминга) и Twitter (за последние полтора месяца фанаты посвятили сериалу больше 30 миллионов твитов). Колоссальное влияние на моду тоже налицо, и это заслуга художницы по костюмам Хайди Бивенс и ее ассистентки Анджелины Витто, которая будет одевать героев третьего сезона «Эйфории». Полина Садовникова поговорила с ними о том, как создавались образы самых ярких персонажей сезона.

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Когда у художницы по костюмам Хайди Бивенс наконец-то сложилось представление о том, как будут выглядеть герои второго сезона «Эйфории», началась пандемия. Съемки, запланированные на март 2020-го, отложили. Рейлы с вещами, часть которых команда успела запросить у брендов, откопать в винтажных магазинах и забронировать в костюмерных лос-анджелесских киностудий, ждали своего часа целый год. «Мода быстро меняется, и я не была уверена, что одежда все еще выглядит актуально и соответствует духу времени. Но я решила прислушаться к интуиции и не стала ничего менять, — говорит Хайди Бивенс. — В общем, коронавирус никак не повлиял на изначальную выборку». Интуиция не подвела: фанаты оценили костюмы на ура. Премьера второго сезона «Эйфории» вызвала всплеск модных запросов. На сайте Love the Sales мгновенно подскочил спрос на черные платья с вырезами (+890%), туфли на шнуровке (+125%) и голубые платья с ремешками (+143%). В Instagram появились отдельные аккаунты, посвященные стилю героев. Пользователи TikTok запустили тренд, начав иронизировать над «формой», в которой школьники из «Эйфории» ходят на уроки. 


Поколение Z взахлеб обсуждает звезд «Эйфории», а они тем временем успешно продают целевой аудитории сериала одежду и косметику брендов, с которыми заключили контракты. Люксовые марки, как правило, не желают ассоциироваться с остросоциальными проектами, но для «Эйфории» (поднимающей целый набор неудобных тем: от абортов до сексуального насилия и злоупотребления наркотиками) сделали исключение. Valentino и Bulgari взяли в амбассадоры Зендею, Prada и Shiseido — Хантер Шафер, YSL Beauty, Jacquemus и Coach — Барби Феррейру, Polo by Ralph Lauren — Ангуса Клауда, Boss — Джейкоба Элорди, M.A.C — Алексу Деми, Tory Burch, Guess, Parade и Savage x Fenty — Сидни Суини, Ami — Мод Апатоу, а Calvin Klein — Доминика Файка и Джейкоба Элорди. Недели моды в Нью-Йорке, Лондоне и Милане тоже захватила актерская команда «Эйфории»: Хантер Шафер закрыла шоу Prada, Джейкоб Элорди отметился в числе приглашенных на вечеринку Burberry, Хлоя Черри прошлась по подиуму LaQuan Smith и попала на бэкстейдж David Koma, Мод Апатоу пригласили смотреть новую коллекцию Batsheva, а Ангус Клауд снимал Stories с первого ряда показа Сoach и благодаря этому повысил охваты бренда (и конвертировал их в $3,4 млн) 

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В чем секрет такого успеха? В чутье кастинг-директора Дженнифер Вендитти (раньше она искала моделей для съемок и показов) и художницы по костюмам Хайди Бивенс, раскрывшей модный потенциал актеров. «В первом сезоне я одевала героев более сдержанно, вдохновлялась тем, что носят реальные американские ребята из старшей школы, — отвечает Хайди Бивенс. — Во втором же сезоне у меня было больше свободы, так что я решила хорошенько пофантазировать и выкинуть из головы установку о том, что костюмы героев должны выглядеть правдоподобно. Я не собиралась использовать только недорогие бренды и выбирала то, что хотела бы видеть на экране». Сэм Левинсон и правда давал Хайди Бивенс полную творческую свободу: создатель сериала даже оставлял на полях сценария фразу «Хайди, делай то, что считаешь нужным».

Анджелина Витто скромно указана в титрах как «ассистентка художницы по костюмам», но, по словам Хайди Бивенс, ее вклад невозможно переоценить. В первом сезоне Анджелина помогала Хайди в качестве шопера: она искала магазины, в которых можно было бы найти нужные вещи. «С Хайди [Бивенс] я познакомилась совершенно случайно во время какого-то проекта, с которым я помогала на фрилансе в качестве стилиста. Мы хорошо поладили, и она пригласила меня помочь с костюмами в „Эйфории“. В Лос-Анджелесе все работает именно так, — вспоминает Анджелина Витто. — Вообще я училась на политолога, но всегда интересовалась одеждой: коллекционировала винтажные вещи, часть которых потом перепродавала или одалживала на съемки знакомым фотографам. Таким образом я зарабатывала деньги в колледже».

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Умение разбираться в винтажной одежде пригодилось Анджелине Витто на съемках второго сезона «Эйфории»: найденные ею вещи из архивных коллекций 1990-х и 2000-х задавали тренды на ресейл-платформах. Так, Vestiaire Collective обязаны ей популярностью корсетов (+125%) и нарядных платьев для вечеринок (+275%). «Винтаж — всегда классное решение, в моде все циклично. Думаю, нулевые так популярны среди молодежи еще и потому, что в винтажках сложнее найти качественные вещи из коллекций 1950-х и 1970-х. С нулевыми в этом плане проще», — объясняет Анджелина Витто. Кроме того, Анджелина отвечала за поддержку небольших модных брендов. «Анджелина познакомила меня с кучей молодых марок, о которых я раньше даже не слышала», — говорит Хайди Бивенс.


Второй сезон «Эйфории» получился гораздо тяжелее первого (неспроста Зендея накануне премьеры предупредила своих подписчиков в инстаграме о том, что сериал может быть «трудным для просмотра»). Чтобы задать нужный тон, художницы по костюмам сильно сгустили краски. «В первом сезоне было много пастельных цветов, розового, голубого, фиолетового, — рассказывает Хайди Бивенс. — А вот во втором сезоне больше черного и золотого». Впрочем, темные цвета — не единственное, что отличает стиль во втором сезоне «Эйфории». Вот как изменились костюмы героев сериала.


Мэдди Перес

В исполнении Алексы Деми


1

Актерский состав «Эйфории» единогласно признает Мэдди самой модной героиней сериала. «После расставания с Нейтом стиль Мэдди стал более зрелым и соблазнительным, — замечает Хайди Бивенс. — Ее очень вдохновляет героиня Минки Келли — хозяйка дома, в котором она работет. Мэдди хочет быть на нее похожей и отлично чувствует себя в этой новой роли, что особенно видно в эпизоде с переодеваниями». В «эпизоде с переодеваниями», про который говорит Хайди Бивенс, Мэдди примеряет винтажные сокровища вроде халата Halston и платьев из коллекции Mugler 1991 и Chanel весна—лето 1997. Этим эпизодом Хайди Бивенс занималась самостоятельно: сначала она хотела одеть Мэдди в вещи из последних коллекций, но потом остановилась на винтажных нарядах. Их Хайди взяла в аренду в магазине Aralda Vintage (у которого заметно прибавилось количество подписчиков после выхода «Эйфории»).

Алекса Деми — одна из тех, кто принимал непосредственное участие в работе над костюмами. Она помогала Хайди Бивенс выбирать ткани для нарядов и выбирала платье с разрезами для новогодней вечеринки. Большинство костюмов Мэдди в сериале — дело рук Marc Jacobs. С выбором платья, в котором героиня Алексы Деми справляла день рождения, Марк Джейкобс помогал лично.

Кэсси Ховард 

2

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В исполнении Сидни Суини 


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Ко второму сезону героиня Сидни Суини изменилась сильнее других персонажей. «Главное в ее нарядах — фокус на женственность в традиционном понимании этого слова. Кэсси хочет быть любимой и считает, что одежда ей в этом поможет», — говорит Хайди Бивенс. Многие наряды Кэсси — дело рук креативного директора Moschino Джереми Скотта. Она также появляется в кадре в платьях Christopher Kane, Marc Jacobs и Seth Pratt. «Мне было очень интересно работать со стилем Кэсси, для меня это самый сложный персонаж, потому что она балансирует между так называемой mall culture и образами девушек из инстаграма, да еще и местами копирует стиль Мэдди. В общем, Кэсси сама не знает, кем хочет быть. При этом у Кэсси довольна четкая палитра — чаще всего она носит розовое и голубое».   


Ру Беннетт 

3

В исполнении Зендеи 

«Каждая вещь, в которой Ру появляется в сериале, несет какой-то смысл», — рассказывала Зендея в интервью. «Хотелось бы, чтобы это было так», — смеется Анджелина Витто в ответ на эту фразу, но отмечает, что гардероб Ру действительно был хорошо продуман, хотя на первый взгляд кажется иначе. «Все эти мятые футболки и джинсы, которые валяются на полу в комнате Ру, мы искали в винтажных магазинах и брендовых бутиках. Ах да, еще один забавный факт: возможно, вы запомнили зеленую футболку на Ру? Так вот это моя футболка, в которой я обычно сплю, все мои друзья знают об этом», — говорит Анджелина Витто.


Самая символичная вещь в гардеробе Ру — бордовое худи с капюшоном, которое носил ее отец. «Для Ру эта вещь — зона комфорта. В первом сезоне она носила это худи после того, как вышла из рехаба. Возможно, она чувствует, что Ру в завязке и Ру, употребляющая наркотики, — это два разных человека. При этом с зависимостью связана определенная доля стыда, и я думаю, что худи ей об этом напоминает», — объясняет Хайди Бивенс.  


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4

Джулс Вон 

В исполнении Хантер Шафер 



Во втором сезоне Джулс отказалась от пастельных цветов, мини-юбок и топов с милыми принтами в пользу объемных тай-дай-свитшотов, лонгсливов и боди. «Ее стиль стал более андрогинным, — говорит Хайди Бивенс. — Она все еще изучает себя и свое тело, экспериментирует с сексуальностью, но не такой открытой, как в начале сериала». Джулс чаще других героев сериала носит вещи молодых брендов. «Мой любимый образ Джулс — тот, в котором она была на новогодней вечеринке, — признается Анджелина Витто. — Он был чертовски хорош. Хантер сама помогала мне выбирать топ Maroske Peech и майку NIHL».


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5

Кэт 

Хернандес 

В исполнении Барби Феррейры 



Линии Кэт во втором сезоне отведено незаслуженно мало экранного времени. По словам Барби Феррейры, ее героиня втайне ото всех переживает «несколько экзистенциальных кризисов». На этом непростом психологическом фоне стиль Кэт сильно меняется. «Во втором сезоне мы не хотели продолжать тему „доминатрикс“. Хотелось уйти в сторону чего-то более естественного. Среди референсов было много фотографий Дрю Бэрримор и других звезд 90-х», — рассказывает Анджелина Витто. Ее самый любимый образ Кэт во втором сезоне — салатовый кардиган Guizio и юбка Omighty за $66.


6

лекси

ховард

В исполнении Мод Апатоу 



А вот героиня Мод Апатоу во втором сезоне наконец-то получила внимание, которого заслуживает. У образцовой отличницы Лекси такой же образцовый гардероб: платья и блузки с воротничками Miu Miu ($1,125 и $1,600 соответственно), мини-сумка Courrèges для походов в школу ($710) и «домашний» кардиган Calle del Mar ($395). «Мне очень нравится комплект Batsheva, в котором Лекси была на новогодней вечеринке: кастомизированный топ и брюки», — говорит Анджелина Витто.  


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7

фэй

В исполнении Хлои Черри

Подруга наркодилера Фэй, которую играет бывшая порноактриса Хлоя Черри, одна из самых любимых героинь Анджелины Витто. «Она носит только винтаж: Miss Sixty, Frankie B, Betsey Jhonson, Roxy, — рассказывает Анджелина Витто. — Ее одежду я искала в отделе с детскими вещами, архивами из нулевых и секцией с одеждой для стриптизерш. Мы хотели, чтобы Фэй была такой сладкой конфеткой (sweet candy). Я выросла недалеко от Лос-Анджелеса и постоянно видела в округе таких девушек, как она».   




8

Фес(ко)

В исполнении Ангуса Клауда 


Фес — самый популярный герой «Эйфории» в твиттере (Ру на втором месте рейтинга) и один из самых стильных жителей Ист-Хайленда. Хайди Бивенс и Анджелина Витто одели его в вещи Supreme и модного скейтерского бренда Palace. «Ангус [Клауд] сам по себе очень стильный парень. У него очень хороший вкус», — говорит Анджелина Витто. В этом сомневаться не приходится: во время последней Нью-Йоркской недели моды Ангус Клауд то и дело попадал в хроники стритстайл-отчетов.


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border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 100px;"></div> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 60px;"></div></div></div><div style="padding: 19% 0;"></div> <div style="display:block; height:50px; margin:0 auto 12px; width:50px;"><svg width="50px" height="50px" viewBox="0 0 60 60" version="1.1" xmlns="https://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="https://www.w3.org/1999/xlink"><g stroke="none" stroke-width="1" fill="none" fill-rule="evenodd"><g transform="translate(-511.000000, -20.000000)" fill="#000000"><g><path d="M556.869,30.41 C554.814,30.41 553.148,32.076 553.148,34.131 C553.148,36.186 554.814,37.852 556.869,37.852 C558.924,37.852 560.59,36.186 560.59,34.131 C560.59,32.076 558.924,30.41 556.869,30.41 M541,60.657 C535.114,60.657 530.342,55.887 530.342,50 C530.342,44.114 535.114,39.342 541,39.342 C546.887,39.342 551.658,44.114 551.658,50 C551.658,55.887 546.887,60.657 541,60.657 M541,33.886 C532.1,33.886 524.886,41.1 524.886,50 C524.886,58.899 532.1,66.113 541,66.113 C549.9,66.113 557.115,58.899 557.115,50 C557.115,41.1 549.9,33.886 541,33.886 M565.378,62.101 C565.244,65.022 564.756,66.606 564.346,67.663 C563.803,69.06 563.154,70.057 562.106,71.106 C561.058,72.155 560.06,72.803 558.662,73.347 C557.607,73.757 556.021,74.244 553.102,74.378 C549.944,74.521 548.997,74.552 541,74.552 C533.003,74.552 532.056,74.521 528.898,74.378 C525.979,74.244 524.393,73.757 523.338,73.347 C521.94,72.803 520.942,72.155 519.894,71.106 C518.846,70.057 518.197,69.06 517.654,67.663 C517.244,66.606 516.755,65.022 516.623,62.101 C516.479,58.943 516.448,57.996 516.448,50 C516.448,42.003 516.479,41.056 516.623,37.899 C516.755,34.978 517.244,33.391 517.654,32.338 C518.197,30.938 518.846,29.942 519.894,28.894 C520.942,27.846 521.94,27.196 523.338,26.654 C524.393,26.244 525.979,25.756 528.898,25.623 C532.057,25.479 533.004,25.448 541,25.448 C548.997,25.448 549.943,25.479 553.102,25.623 C556.021,25.756 557.607,26.244 558.662,26.654 C560.06,27.196 561.058,27.846 562.106,28.894 C563.154,29.942 563.803,30.938 564.346,32.338 C564.756,33.391 565.244,34.978 565.378,37.899 C565.522,41.056 565.552,42.003 565.552,50 C565.552,57.996 565.522,58.943 565.378,62.101 M570.82,37.631 C570.674,34.438 570.167,32.258 569.425,30.349 C568.659,28.377 567.633,26.702 565.965,25.035 C564.297,23.368 562.623,22.342 560.652,21.575 C558.743,20.834 556.562,20.326 553.369,20.18 C550.169,20.033 549.148,20 541,20 C532.853,20 531.831,20.033 528.631,20.18 C525.438,20.326 523.257,20.834 521.349,21.575 C519.376,22.342 517.703,23.368 516.035,25.035 C514.368,26.702 513.342,28.377 512.574,30.349 C511.834,32.258 511.326,34.438 511.181,37.631 C511.035,40.831 511,41.851 511,50 C511,58.147 511.035,59.17 511.181,62.369 C511.326,65.562 511.834,67.743 512.574,69.651 C513.342,71.625 514.368,73.296 516.035,74.965 C517.703,76.634 519.376,77.658 521.349,78.425 C523.257,79.167 525.438,79.673 528.631,79.82 C531.831,79.965 532.853,80.001 541,80.001 C549.148,80.001 550.169,79.965 553.369,79.82 C556.562,79.673 558.743,79.167 560.652,78.425 C562.623,77.658 564.297,76.634 565.965,74.965 C567.633,73.296 568.659,71.625 569.425,69.651 C570.167,67.743 570.674,65.562 570.82,62.369 C570.966,59.17 571,58.147 571,50 C571,41.851 570.966,40.831 570.82,37.631"></path></g></g></g></svg></div><div style="padding-top: 8px;"> <div style=" color:#3897f0; 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бабушка феско

9

<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/CYjw_qMLm9O/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" data-instgrm-version="14" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:540px; min-width:326px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"><div style="padding:16px;"> <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CYjw_qMLm9O/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style=" background:#FFFFFF; line-height:0; padding:0 0; text-align:center; text-decoration:none; width:100%;" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noreferrer"> <div style=" display: flex; flex-direction: row; align-items: center;"> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 40px; margin-right: 14px; width: 40px;"></div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; 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В исполнении Кэтрин Нардуччи 

Бабушка Феско, драгдилер и гроза преступного мира Ист-Хайленда по имени Мэри О’Нейл, появляется только в одной серии — да и то на пару минут. Она водит Cadillac, берет внука (которого называет не иначе как бизнес-партнером) на «рабочие встречи», особенно не церемонится с должниками и при каждом удобном случае рассказывает подростку Фесу, как выжить в суровом мире. «Мы сразу сошлись на том, что одежду для бабушки Феса будем шить самостоятельно, — говорит Хайди Бивенс. — Я вдохновлялась костюмами участников Grand Ole Opry (знаменитой американской передачи в формате концерта с участием звезд кантри-музыки. — Прим. The Blueprint) и эпохой 1970-х». За отведенные 10 минут экранного времени героиня Кэтрин Нардуччи («Клан Сопрано», «Ирландец») успевает сменить несколько нарядов. Самый яркий из них — синий брючный костюм с голубыми цветочными узорами (их вышивали вручную) и надписью God’s Word — God’s Will («Божье слово — Божья воля»).


10

Нейт Джейкобс 


В исполнении Джейкоба Элорди 

«У Нейта Джейкобса самый скучный гардероб в сериале, — признается Анджелина Витто. — Мне кажется, Нейт старается хорошо выглядеть в глазах окружающих, но в то же время не хочет его одежда привлекала внимание. Это выражается и в одежде — он носит черные, темно-синие и серые вещи», — добавляет Анджелина Витто. Вероятно, поэтому большую часть экранного времени самый обеспеченный герой сериала носит свитшоты adidas, кроссовки Nike и Reebok.


Эллиотт 

11

В исполнении Доминика Файка 

Между Ру и Эллиотом, с которым та знакомится на новогодней вечеринке, довольно быстро обнаруживается много общего. Герой Доминика Файка даже носит похожие вещи: свободные футболки, высокие Converse черного цвета и растянутые худи, в которых мы часто видим Ру. Футболки Анджелина Витто и Хайди Бивенс искали по винтажным и онлайн-магазинам (зеленую, с надписью Rodeo Attitide нашли на eBay), худи — в магазинах Telfar и Hood by Air, а джинсы — в Levi’s. Впрочем, многое из того, что носит Эллиотт, было в гардеробе Доминика Файка. «Доминик приносил на площадку свою одежду из дома, и мы просто миксовали ее с винтажными находками, — говорит Анджелина Витто. — Была забавная история с брюками, которые Эллиотт носит в сериале чаще всего. Мы случайно обнаружили их на примерке и даже не поняли, откуда они взялись. Они так круто вписались в образ, что мы решили использовать их в нескольких сценах».


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