Blueprint
T

7 ошибок в ночном уходе за кожей

Все еще думаете, что слово «ночной» в названии крема — ничего не значит? А может, наносите ночной крем за минуту до того, как лечь в кровать? Объясняем, почему вы ошибаетесь, и рассказываем, что еще вы, вероятно, делаете неправильно.

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Вы игнорируете ночной уход



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Сторонники skin fasting, подразумевающего временный отказ от бьюти-средств с пользой для лица, вас бы единодушно поддержали. По мнению японского дерматолога Утсуги Рюити, который начал проповедовать косметическое голодание 10 лет назад, кожа должна отдыхать от косметики. С ним согласны создательница марки Mirai Clinical Коко Хаяси и косметолог Чизу Саеки (последняя даже упоминает скин-фастинг в своем бестселлере «Японская революция по уходу за кожей», правда, никаких исследований не приводит).


А вот американский косметолог и бьюти-гуру Пола Бегун считает, что вам пора крепко задуматься над своим поведением: по ее словам, без правильного ухода не справиться с сухостью кожи, не избавиться от акне (можно лишь усугубить) и не провести детокс кожи. Еще один крепкий аргумент против «бьюти-поста» — отсутствие серьезных медицинских исследований на эту тему.

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Ночное крем-масло с пептидами Peptide4 Night Recowery Cream Oil, Elemis и ночной эликсир «Мгновенная перезагрузка кожи», L''Occitane

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Интенсивный регенерирующий крем Revitalizing Supreme+Night, Estee Lauder

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Ночной крем-пилинг Age Protect, Uriage


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Ночная крем-маска Slow Age Nuit, Vichy

У вашей кожи нет очевидных изъянов? Можете поэкспериментировать и понять, как вам комфортнее. Но если существуют проблемы в виде сухости, атопичности, реактивности или склонности к акне, косметическое голодание точно не для вас.


Теперь разберемся, почему ночной уход необходим. Днем в клетках кожи замедляются процессы синтеза полезных веществ. Главной обязанностью становится защита от негативных внешних факторов, которых в дневное время хватает: стресс, загрязнение атмосферы, УФ-излучение. Ночью же, согласно представлениям о циркадных ритмах в коже, активно идет восстановление, обновление, вырабатываются важные вещества. К тому же, пока вы спите, лучше усваиваются ингредиенты косметики.

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Разделять свой ежедневный уход на «день» и «ночь» стоит еще и потому, что некоторые компоненты косметики несовместимы: при одновременном использовании нейтрализуют друг друга либо приводят к проблемам вроде воспаления, раздражения, пересушивания кожи. Например, антиоксидант витамин С не дружит с ретинолом, ниацинамидом и омолаживающими пептидами меди. Выход из положения может быть таким: наносить сыворотку с аскорбиновой кислотой с утра, а крем на основе ретинола или ниацинамида — вечером. Либо включить в дневной уход антивозрастное средство с пептидами меди, а в вечерний — с витамином С.

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Масляный концентрат с ретинолом Ideal Resource, Darphin 

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Вы слишком поздно ложитесь

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Нарушаете режим сна? Поверьте, результаты будут видны невооруженным глазом. «В среднем процесс регенерации в коже начинается в 22:00–23:00 и достигает пика к полуночи, — говорит Оксана Рыжкова, тренинг-менеджер, эксперт дерматологических лабораторий Uriage. — Обновление и восстановление в этот период происходит независимо от того, спите вы или нет. Но чтобы процесс проходил эффективнее, важно выключить свет и гаджеты и все же уснуть, чтобы не сбить как свой личный режим, так и клеточный». Длятся регенеративные процессы в клетках кожи примерно до 4:00–5:00 утра.

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Крем-пилинг с гликолевой кислотой Cream 10, GlySkin Care


Питательная ночная маска Renight Mask, [comfort Zone]


Гранатовый ночной крем-лифтинг Granatapfel, Weleda


Вы наносите крем прямо перед сном

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Использовать ночной крем лучше не перед тем, как лечь на подушку, а за 1,5–2 часа до сна. Во-первых, у средства будет время впитаться, а значит, половина его не останется жирным следом на вашей шелковой наволочке (этот материал полезен для состояния кожи и волос).


Во-вторых, это поможет избежать «морщин сна» и отеков. Делаете все правильно, но по утрам под глазами все равно появляются мешки? Тогда особенно серьезно стоит подойти к выбору крема для век. Лучше всего, если он будет с противоотечным действием, на основе кофеина или эсцина. А увлажняющие средства для контура глаз с гиалуроновой кислотой оставьте для дневного ухода: способность одной молекулы гиалуронки притягивать до 1000 молекул воды может вызвать припухлости под глазами после сна.

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Смягчающий ночной крем Good In Bed, GlamGlow


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Ночная восстанавливающая сыворотка Night Remedy Serum, Insium


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Вы пользуетесь дневным средством вместо ночного

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Увлажняющая ночная маска Waso, Shiseido 


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Это сложно считать ошибкой, если назначение дневного крема — увлажнение или питание. А вот защита от УФ-лучей ночью вашей коже совсем ни к чему.


Также лишней будет опция матирования. Согласно исследованиям циркадных ритмов кожи, выработка себума в ночное время замедляется, да и в целом избыточный блеск во время сна мало кого беспокоит.


Что действительно пригодится жирной коже, так это хороший увлажнитель, поскольку кожа этого типа подвержена обезвоженности. Мало того, обладатели жирной кожи часто допускают ошибку — исключают из ухода увлажняющие средства, принимая здоровое сияние влажной кожи за надоевший жирный блеск. Подход неверный: чем сильнее дефицит влаги, тем активнее будет вырабатываться кожное сало.

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Ночной пилинг-концентрат Night Refining Micro-Peel Concentrate, Kiehl''s

Ночной крем, Ansaligy

Вы уверены, что на ночь можно наносить только крем

Если вам не нравится текстура ночного крема или просто хочется разнообразить ночной уход — ликуйте. На кремах свет клином не сошелся и других вариантов — полным-полно. К примеру, ночное масло поможет коже с ослабленным липидным барьером, склонной к сухости, чувствительности и розацеа. Ночная сыворотка — средство с жидкой консистенцией, высокой концентрацией активных компонентов и узконаправленным действием — отличный вариант, если нужно решить конкретную проблему. Ночные пилинги на основе кислот используют курсом — для обновления кожи, выравнивания ее текстуры и тона. О них стоит подумать людям с тусклой, уставшей, жирной и проблемной кожей, а также если на лице есть пигментация или шелушение. И наконец, ночные маски (или слипинг-пак), которые несколько лет назад буквально заполонили полки парфюмерно-косметических магазинов. Такая маска может быть антиоксидантной, успокаивающей, омолаживающей — и вообще какой угодно. Что особенно удобно — ее не нужно смывать (разве что с утра, во время умывания).

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Ночной крем против морщин Time-Filler Night, Filorga


Ночной крем с ретинолом Total Age Correction, Lancaster



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Ночной крем для упругости кожи Resveratrol Lift, Caudalie 

Ночной пилинг для проблемной кожи Sebium, Bioderma


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Антивозрастной ночной крем Blue Therapy Amber Algae Revitalize, Biotherm

Вы отказались от крема в пользу маски

Повальное увлечение слипинг-паками заставляет напомнить: маски — это «средства Золушки», рассчитанные на быстрый эффект, поэтому концентрация активных веществ в них повышена. Если пользоваться несмываемой маской каждый вечер, есть риск получить раздражение. Оптимальный режим — один-три раза в неделю в обычных условиях, немного чаще — в экстремальных, таких как смена климатический условий или джетлаг.

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Вы ухаживаете только за лицом

Ночная антицеллюлитная сыворотка Night Anticellulite Slimming Superconcentrate, Collistar


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Поскольку кожа — единый орган, логично, что более восприимчивой к уходу она становится не только на лице. Вот почему все больше марок выпускают специальные средства для темного времени суток. К примеру, у Rhea есть питательный восстанавливающий крем (идеально в сезон морозов и центрального отопления), Collistar — антицеллюлитная сыворотка, а у Sesderma — целая программа «день/ночь» против апельсиновой корки (утреннее средство отвечает за дренаж, вечернее — работает как липолитик). Для гладкости пяток датская марка Ecooking выпустила ночной крем с мочевиной и молочной кислотой. «Его можно использовать и днем, — признается The Blueprint создательница бренда Тина Сёгаард. — Просто так удобнее — нанести крем для ног уже в кровати, когда тебе никуда не нужно идти».

Ночная сыворотка для увеличения густоты волос Night Density Rescue, Nioxin 


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Ночной питательный крем для тела Nutri Sleep, Rhea


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Ночная сыворотка для волос Nutritive 8H Magic Night Serum, Kerastase


Ночной крем для ног Overnight Foot Cream, Ecooking

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Ночной гель из антицеллюлитной программы Celulex Lipobreaker, Sesderma


В коже головы ночью процессы тоже активизируются, и пренебрегать такой возможностью было бы странно, особенно если цель — стимулировать волосяные луковицы. Поэтому все больше средств от выпадения выпускаются с пометкой night. Одно из нашумевших — ночная сыворотка для увеличения густоты волос Night Density Rescue, Nioxin. Антиоксидантная формула нейтрализует окислительные процессы, кофеин вкупе с массажными движениями, которыми нужно распределять средство, восстанавливает кровообращение — так что волосяные фолликулы работают бодрее.


Кроме средств от выпадения существуют ночные продукты для восстановления сухих прядей: они есть у René Furterer, Living Proof, Phyto и с недавних пор у Kérastase.


«На ночь такие средства применяются для того, чтобы у витаминов и антиоксидантов, которые есть в составе, было достаточно времени проникнуть в структуру волос, — комментирует Марина Долгополова, эксперт марки Kérastase. — Кроме того, некоторые ингредиенты сыворотки Nutritive 8H Magic Night Serum лучше работают при отсутствии солнечного света». Липких следов на подушке не опасайтесь: обычно ночные средства впитываются мгновенно, а после нанесения волосы можно заплести в косу.

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