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Американка в Париже: Габриэлла Херст в Chloé

3 декабря Chloé объявили, что Наташа Рамсей-Леви покидает пост креативного директора бренда. Хотя в индустрии слухи об этом ходили давно и все ждали лишь официального подтверждения, новость прогремела если не как гром среди ясного неба, то точно как сенсация. Еще неожиданнее стало объявление о замене Рамсей-Леви — не прошло и недели, как мы узнали, что новым креативным директором Chloé стала Габриэла Херст. Мнения разделились: пока одни восхищались выбором руководства бренда и говорили, что это союз, созданный на небесах, другие со скукой пожимали плечами, не понимая, что нового даст это назначение компании, ведь Херст с точки зрения карьеры и публичного образа почти что двойник своей предшественницы. Редактор моды The Blueprint Настя Сотник изучила все строчки в резюме Херст — и убедилась, что это самое логичное назначение года.

Звучная фамилия

Херст — известная фамилия в мире моды, да и в мире вообще. Hearst Corporation — один из крупнейших медиаконцернов в мире. И Габриэла носит ее не по совпадению, а как жена совладельца мультимедийной империи, застройщика и филантропа Джона Огастина Херста. Остин Херст, к слову, никогда не был чужд моде и, в частности, в нулевые стал одним из первых инвесторов молодого бренда Tory Burch. Невозможно отрицать, что такое родство помогает в карьере, однако интерес к коллекциям Габриэлы проявляют не только модные редакторы журналов семейного пула, но и их прямые конкуренты. Так что о том, как сложилась бы судьба бренда, оставь Габриэла импозантную девичью фамилию Перецутти, остается только догадываться.

Бутик Gabriela Hearst в Лондоне

Американка в Париже

Херст на самом деле давно ждали в Париже, ведь с французской модой последний год ее связывают не только эмоциональные отношения. В 2019-м в бренд Габриэлы поверили специалисты венчурного направления LVMH, LVMH Luxury Ventures, и приобрели миноритарную долю компании Херст. Так Gabriela Hearst стал второй после Marc Jacobs американской инвестицией LVMH. Но это не помешало конкурирующему конгломерату Richemont сделать дизайнера своей сотрудницей.

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Звезда, но не персонаж

На пост креативного директора Chloé Херст входит вполне состоявшимся дизайнером. Ее бренду всего пять лет, но на счету Габриэлы победа в престижном конкурсе молодых дизайнеров 2016/2017 International Woolmark Prize в номинации «Одежда для женщин». Совет модных дизайнеров Америки ее тоже любит: в 2017 году ее номинировали в категории для молодых дизайнеров CFDA Swarovski Award, а в 2018-м она чуть не стала «Дизайнером года» CFDA в категории «Одежда для женщин» и в 2020-м награду в этой номинации все же забрала. Однако все это успехи узкопрофессиональные. За Габриэлой не следит армия лояльных фанатов в соцсетях, как за Симоном Портом Жакмюсом, ее имя не стало нарицательным, как случилось с Фиби Файло, за ее вещами не выстраиваются очереди хайпбистов и инфлюенсеров, как за коллекциями Мэтью Уильямса. Возможно, именно поста креативного директора в популярном бренде Габриэле и не хватало, чтобы развернуть на себя свет софитов.

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Gabriela Hearst, весна-лето 2020

Gabriela Hearst, осень-зима 2020/2021

Она бережет природу

Собственный бренд Габриэлы пресса уже несколько лет называет sustainable-компанией, а лично Херст — борцом за устойчивое развитие. Эта любовь к природе неудивительна — Габриэла выросла на ранчо, в окружении овец, коров, лошадей (любовь к ним роднит Херст с Рамсей-Леви) и бескрайних просторов родного Уругвая. C 2018-го бренд использует только компостируемые пакеты Tipa и вешалки из переработанного картона — к 2019 году Херст отказалась от использования пластика в работе компании в принципе, от создания коллекций до их дистрибуции и продажи. Первый бутик Gabriela Hearst на Мэдисон-авеню построили без синтетических материалов и химикатов с использованием натурального, необработанного регенерированного дуба. В августе 2019-го открылся лондонский бутик Gabriela Hearst по проекту обладателя «архитектурного "Оскара"», известного экоэнтузиаста в архитектуре Нормана Фостера. Шоу весна—лето 2021 стало первым углеродно-нейтральным показом Gabriela Hearst — и, по плану дизайнера, не последним ни в случае с ее собственным брендом, ни в случае с Chloé. «Я рада возможности работать под руководством Риккардо Беллини и поддерживать его в его стремлении создать бизнес, который является социально ответственным и находится в равновесии с окружающей средой», — сказала Херст в своем заявлении по случаю назначения. Единственное, в чем могут упрекнуть ее экоактивисты, — скотоводством на семейном уругвайском ранчо Габриэла занимается до сих пор.

Gabriela Hearst, весна-лето 2021

<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/B8ZOOXThNnq/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" data-instgrm-version="13" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:540px; min-width:326px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"><div style="padding:16px;"> <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/B8ZOOXThNnq/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style=" background:#FFFFFF; line-height:0; padding:0 0; text-align:center; text-decoration:none; width:100%;" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noreferrer"> <div style=" display: flex; flex-direction: row; align-items: center;"> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 40px; margin-right: 14px; width: 40px;"></div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 100px;"></div> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 60px;"></div></div></div><div style="padding: 19% 0;"></div> <div style="display:block; height:50px; margin:0 auto 12px; width:50px;"><svg width="50px" height="50px" viewBox="0 0 60 60" version="1.1" xmlns="https://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="https://www.w3.org/1999/xlink"><g stroke="none" stroke-width="1" fill="none" fill-rule="evenodd"><g transform="translate(-511.000000, -20.000000)" fill="#000000"><g><path d="M556.869,30.41 C554.814,30.41 553.148,32.076 553.148,34.131 C553.148,36.186 554.814,37.852 556.869,37.852 C558.924,37.852 560.59,36.186 560.59,34.131 C560.59,32.076 558.924,30.41 556.869,30.41 M541,60.657 C535.114,60.657 530.342,55.887 530.342,50 C530.342,44.114 535.114,39.342 541,39.342 C546.887,39.342 551.658,44.114 551.658,50 C551.658,55.887 546.887,60.657 541,60.657 M541,33.886 C532.1,33.886 524.886,41.1 524.886,50 C524.886,58.899 532.1,66.113 541,66.113 C549.9,66.113 557.115,58.899 557.115,50 C557.115,41.1 549.9,33.886 541,33.886 M565.378,62.101 C565.244,65.022 564.756,66.606 564.346,67.663 C563.803,69.06 563.154,70.057 562.106,71.106 C561.058,72.155 560.06,72.803 558.662,73.347 C557.607,73.757 556.021,74.244 553.102,74.378 C549.944,74.521 548.997,74.552 541,74.552 C533.003,74.552 532.056,74.521 528.898,74.378 C525.979,74.244 524.393,73.757 523.338,73.347 C521.94,72.803 520.942,72.155 519.894,71.106 C518.846,70.057 518.197,69.06 517.654,67.663 C517.244,66.606 516.755,65.022 516.623,62.101 C516.479,58.943 516.448,57.996 516.448,50 C516.448,42.003 516.479,41.056 516.623,37.899 C516.755,34.978 517.244,33.391 517.654,32.338 C518.197,30.938 518.846,29.942 519.894,28.894 C520.942,27.846 521.94,27.196 523.338,26.654 C524.393,26.244 525.979,25.756 528.898,25.623 C532.057,25.479 533.004,25.448 541,25.448 C548.997,25.448 549.943,25.479 553.102,25.623 C556.021,25.756 557.607,26.244 558.662,26.654 C560.06,27.196 561.058,27.846 562.106,28.894 C563.154,29.942 563.803,30.938 564.346,32.338 C564.756,33.391 565.244,34.978 565.378,37.899 C565.522,41.056 565.552,42.003 565.552,50 C565.552,57.996 565.522,58.943 565.378,62.101 M570.82,37.631 C570.674,34.438 570.167,32.258 569.425,30.349 C568.659,28.377 567.633,26.702 565.965,25.035 C564.297,23.368 562.623,22.342 560.652,21.575 C558.743,20.834 556.562,20.326 553.369,20.18 C550.169,20.033 549.148,20 541,20 C532.853,20 531.831,20.033 528.631,20.18 C525.438,20.326 523.257,20.834 521.349,21.575 C519.376,22.342 517.703,23.368 516.035,25.035 C514.368,26.702 513.342,28.377 512.574,30.349 C511.834,32.258 511.326,34.438 511.181,37.631 C511.035,40.831 511,41.851 511,50 C511,58.147 511.035,59.17 511.181,62.369 C511.326,65.562 511.834,67.743 512.574,69.651 C513.342,71.625 514.368,73.296 516.035,74.965 C517.703,76.634 519.376,77.658 521.349,78.425 C523.257,79.167 525.438,79.673 528.631,79.82 C531.831,79.965 532.853,80.001 541,80.001 C549.148,80.001 550.169,79.965 553.369,79.82 C556.562,79.673 558.743,79.167 560.652,78.425 C562.623,77.658 564.297,76.634 565.965,74.965 C567.633,73.296 568.659,71.625 569.425,69.651 C570.167,67.743 570.674,65.562 570.82,62.369 C570.966,59.17 571,58.147 571,50 C571,41.851 570.966,40.831 570.82,37.631"></path></g></g></g></svg></div><div style="padding-top: 8px;"> <div style=" color:#3897f0; 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margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/B8ZOOXThNnq/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none;" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Публикация от Gabriela Hearst (@gabrielahearst)</a></p></div></blockquote> <script async src="//www.instagram.com/embed.js"></script>

Она умеет создавать it-вещи

Ее самый узнаваемый предмет одежды — брючный костюм. Идеологию кроя она объясняет просто — «делай пошив для женщин так, как будто делаешь его для мужчин». В этом нет никакого сексизма, наоборот, power dressing в чистом виде. Используя техники пошива костюма как традиционно мужского предмета, она «сажает» его на женские фигуры, в каждой коллекции создавая новые сильные образы. Классические, с удлиненными шортами, с кюлотами, с юбками, тройки, вельветовые, атласные, шерстяные — костюмы Херст всякий раз собирают восторженные отзывы критиков после показов и быстро становятся бестселлерами.

И it-сумки тоже

Последний год титул «Birkin для миллениалов» принадлежал сумке Telfar, но на самом деле это звание вполне можно было бы отдать Nina Bag Габриэлы Херст. C 2016 года, когда сумку представили общественности, за ней постоянно стоит очередь из желающих ее приобрести. Вообще, чуть ли не каждую сумку Gabriela Hearst — и Diana, и Jane, и Mitchell — можно назвать it-bag. Они всегда запоминаются благодаря необычным формам, а еще их любят все it-girls, о снисходительности которых может только мечтать дизайнер, от Мирославы Думы до Меган Маркл.

Mitchell Bag

Diana Bag

Jane Bag

Nina Bag

<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/CH-wr0kBhFO/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" data-instgrm-version="13" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:540px; min-width:326px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"><div style="padding:16px;"> <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CH-wr0kBhFO/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style=" background:#FFFFFF; line-height:0; padding:0 0; text-align:center; text-decoration:none; width:100%;" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noreferrer"> <div style=" display: flex; flex-direction: row; align-items: center;"> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 40px; margin-right: 14px; width: 40px;"></div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 100px;"></div> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 60px;"></div></div></div><div style="padding: 19% 0;"></div> <div style="display:block; height:50px; margin:0 auto 12px; width:50px;"><svg width="50px" height="50px" viewBox="0 0 60 60" version="1.1" xmlns="https://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="https://www.w3.org/1999/xlink"><g stroke="none" stroke-width="1" fill="none" fill-rule="evenodd"><g transform="translate(-511.000000, -20.000000)" fill="#000000"><g><path d="M556.869,30.41 C554.814,30.41 553.148,32.076 553.148,34.131 C553.148,36.186 554.814,37.852 556.869,37.852 C558.924,37.852 560.59,36.186 560.59,34.131 C560.59,32.076 558.924,30.41 556.869,30.41 M541,60.657 C535.114,60.657 530.342,55.887 530.342,50 C530.342,44.114 535.114,39.342 541,39.342 C546.887,39.342 551.658,44.114 551.658,50 C551.658,55.887 546.887,60.657 541,60.657 M541,33.886 C532.1,33.886 524.886,41.1 524.886,50 C524.886,58.899 532.1,66.113 541,66.113 C549.9,66.113 557.115,58.899 557.115,50 C557.115,41.1 549.9,33.886 541,33.886 M565.378,62.101 C565.244,65.022 564.756,66.606 564.346,67.663 C563.803,69.06 563.154,70.057 562.106,71.106 C561.058,72.155 560.06,72.803 558.662,73.347 C557.607,73.757 556.021,74.244 553.102,74.378 C549.944,74.521 548.997,74.552 541,74.552 C533.003,74.552 532.056,74.521 528.898,74.378 C525.979,74.244 524.393,73.757 523.338,73.347 C521.94,72.803 520.942,72.155 519.894,71.106 C518.846,70.057 518.197,69.06 517.654,67.663 C517.244,66.606 516.755,65.022 516.623,62.101 C516.479,58.943 516.448,57.996 516.448,50 C516.448,42.003 516.479,41.056 516.623,37.899 C516.755,34.978 517.244,33.391 517.654,32.338 C518.197,30.938 518.846,29.942 519.894,28.894 C520.942,27.846 521.94,27.196 523.338,26.654 C524.393,26.244 525.979,25.756 528.898,25.623 C532.057,25.479 533.004,25.448 541,25.448 C548.997,25.448 549.943,25.479 553.102,25.623 C556.021,25.756 557.607,26.244 558.662,26.654 C560.06,27.196 561.058,27.846 562.106,28.894 C563.154,29.942 563.803,30.938 564.346,32.338 C564.756,33.391 565.244,34.978 565.378,37.899 C565.522,41.056 565.552,42.003 565.552,50 C565.552,57.996 565.522,58.943 565.378,62.101 M570.82,37.631 C570.674,34.438 570.167,32.258 569.425,30.349 C568.659,28.377 567.633,26.702 565.965,25.035 C564.297,23.368 562.623,22.342 560.652,21.575 C558.743,20.834 556.562,20.326 553.369,20.18 C550.169,20.033 549.148,20 541,20 C532.853,20 531.831,20.033 528.631,20.18 C525.438,20.326 523.257,20.834 521.349,21.575 C519.376,22.342 517.703,23.368 516.035,25.035 C514.368,26.702 513.342,28.377 512.574,30.349 C511.834,32.258 511.326,34.438 511.181,37.631 C511.035,40.831 511,41.851 511,50 C511,58.147 511.035,59.17 511.181,62.369 C511.326,65.562 511.834,67.743 512.574,69.651 C513.342,71.625 514.368,73.296 516.035,74.965 C517.703,76.634 519.376,77.658 521.349,78.425 C523.257,79.167 525.438,79.673 528.631,79.82 C531.831,79.965 532.853,80.001 541,80.001 C549.148,80.001 550.169,79.965 553.369,79.82 C556.562,79.673 558.743,79.167 560.652,78.425 C562.623,77.658 564.297,76.634 565.965,74.965 C567.633,73.296 568.659,71.625 569.425,69.651 C570.167,67.743 570.674,65.562 570.82,62.369 C570.966,59.17 571,58.147 571,50 C571,41.851 570.966,40.831 570.82,37.631"></path></g></g></g></svg></div><div style="padding-top: 8px;"> <div style=" color:#3897f0; 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overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CH-wr0kBhFO/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none;" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noreferrer">A post shared by Gabriela Hearst (@gabrielahearst)</a></p></div></blockquote> <script async src="//www.instagram.com/embed.js"></script>

Ее вещи любят звезды

Звезды и правда часто выбирают вещи Габриэлы Херст — и это еще одно преимущество перед Наташей Рамсей-Леви. Пока одни раскручивают себя в соцсетях, делая ставку на работу с инфлюенсерами, Херст делает ставку на нетворкинг. Она активно использует свое положение в обществе, чтобы знакомиться cо знаменитостями первой величины. В вещах Gabriela Hearst появляются актрисы Николь Кидман и Джессика Честейн, член палаты представителей США Александрия Окасио-Кортес и даже новая первая леди США Джилл Байден. И даже если Парижская неделя моды осень—зима 2021/2022 состоится в офлайн-формате, ждем внушительный первый ряд на дебютном для Херст показе Chloé.

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