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Марка с большим будущим: Boyarovskaya

Молодая марка Boyarovskaya вошла в календарь недели моды в Париже в 2020 году — 2 октября мы увидим ее новую коллекцию, весна—лето 2022. Накануне шоу Настя Сотник поговорила с основательницей бренда Марией Бояровской о том, как работа продавцом в Le Bon Marche привела ее к покорению модной индустрии.

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марка:

основатель:

анкета:

Любимый бренд

любимый показ

коллаборация мечты

Самый модный человек

Любимый модный фильм 

В 2011 году Мария Бояровская переехала из Беларуси в Италию, чтобы учиться на дизайнера в миланском Instituto Marangoni. Через год она перевелась в парижское отделение, чтобы позже осуществить свою мечту — открыть собственный бренд. До заветного Boyarovskaya, Paris Based было еще много времени: для начала нужно было набраться опыта. «После окончания института важно было найти работу, чтобы продлить визу. Наверное, около полугода я стажировалась в мелких брендах, параллельно отправляя письма в компании побольше, по сто имейлов в день», — вспоминает Мария Бояровская. Ответы приходили только с приглашениями во все те же небольшие бренды либо на бесплатные стажировки, которые девушка уже не могла себе позволить. В итоге она временно устроилась продавцом-консультантом в универмаг Le Bon Marche.

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От коллег Мария слышала много историй про то, как временная работа продавцом в итоге становилась для таких же мечтающих стать дизайнерами постоянной, поскольку никого никуда не звали. Такая перспектива Бояровскую не устраивала: она мечтала не просто продавать предметы люксовых брендов, а создавать их. Почти потеряв надежду, спустя некоторое время она получила письмо, которое уже и не мечтала получить, — приглашение на работу в Givenchy. «Я даже сразу не поняла — меня зовут работать дизайнером или продавцом в один из бутиков бренда? Поэтому по телефону уточнила, нужно ли нести портфолио на собеседование. Мне сказали: „Да, конечно. Приходите через четыре часа“. Так что я в панике побежала допечатывать портфолио», — рассказывает Бояровская.


В Givenchy она получила должность младшего дизайнера отдела подиумных коллекций. «Там было еще два младших дизайнера и один старший — можно сказать, правая рука Риккардо. С самим Тиши мы встречались только на примерках. Он довольно редко бывал в ателье, а когда приезжал, закрывался в студии и включал музыку на всю громкость, обычно что-то из Бейонсе. И вешал табличку «не беспокоить», — уточняет Бояровская.

После Givenchy Мария пошла в John Galliano. Самого Гальяно она не застала, зато успела поработать с его правой рукой, Биллом Гейтеном. «Там было гораздо спокойнее. Этот дом меньше, чем Givenchy, мне там было не очень интересно — поэтому я и ушла. Тогда мы и решили открыть бренд», — вспоминает Мария Бояровская. Мы — это она и фотограф Артем Кононенко, с которым дизайнер познакомилась в 2016 году. Они стали уделять почти все время бренду, периодически занимаясь фриланс-проектами ради денег для Boyarovskaya: Артем — как фотограф, Мария — как стилист.

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Выстраивая свой бренд, Бояровская применила весь полученный в больших компаниях опыт, чтобы наладить партнерство с производствами и сезонность коллекций. «Все ткани мы закупаем в Италии, там же производим некоторые вещи; кожаные предметы и аксессуары — в Португалии, а все остальное — в очень милом и приятном ателье в Румынии», — объясняет Артем Кононенко. Конечно, не обошлось и без набитых шишек. «В начале пришлось пройти через многих неприятных людей, мы были более наивными, и все пытались этим пользоваться. Всегда надо быть осторожным при выборе партнеров. Все зависит буквально от одной пуговицы: если нет этой пуговицы, вещи нет. Каждая вещь состоит из фурнитуры, ткани, производства, продвижения, инвестиций. Вокруг этого крутится много людей, и если один подводит, все идет наперекосяк», — предупреждает Мария. Этим правилам созвучна первая коллекция Boyarovskaya с принтами «Не доверяй», которую Мария посвятила пострадавшим в катастрофе на Чернобыльской АЭС.

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В своих следующих коллекциях Бояровская больше углубилась в дизайн. Стала экспериментировать с конструкциями и силуэтами, делать лаконичные предметы сложного кроя. Пять сезонов Boyarovskaya показывали свои коллекции во время недели моды в Париже в секции молодых дизайнеров, выбранных Французской федерацией моды. Потом стали подавать заявки на участие в основном расписании модного смотра, с отдельным показом. В 2020-м, со второй попытки, им это удалось — и это стало поворотным моментом для бренда. Сыграло на руку и присутствие марки на онлайн-платформах Farfetch и Moda Operandi (Moda Operandi обратили внимание на Boyarovskaya еще пять лет назад, а Farfetch — чуть позже, когда бренд стал продаваться в корейском шоуруме Rare Market, где байеры его и заметили). «С нами начали связываться стилисты Дженнифер Лопес, Кэти Перри, Хейли Бибер и так далее. Это дает узнаваемость, за счет которой мы растем», — объясняет Артем Кононенко.


Boyarovskaya и правда нравится звездам и с каждым годом становится все заметнее в индустрии. Diet Prada даже как-то заподозрили Celine в том, что Эди Слиман позаимствовал у марки узнаваемую модель пальто c ремнями. Сама же Мария не любит сравнений с другими брендами. «Мне часто говорят про сходство с Givenchy, но я если и вижу это сходство, то не в самой одежде, а в настроении, стиле. Я редко чем-то вдохновляюсь, когда создаю коллекции, не люблю искать конкретную inspiration-тему. Я просто люблю создавать вещь как цельный концепт сам по себе. Как это бывает в дизайне автомобилей, например», — говорит она. Сейчас дизайнер внедряет больше экологичных материалов, чтобы делать коллекции устойчивее, — по ее словам, это даст бонусы при участии в международных конкурсах и премиях, например, LVMH Prize.

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В планах у Boyarovskaya развитие аксессуарной линии, запущенной год назад, создание обуви и даже мужской одежды. Еще бренду пришло время подумать о собственном магазине. Для начала в США и Корее, где вещи Boyarovskaya пользуются наибольшим спросом. А дальше и парижская прописка появится.

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