Темы
T

Что делать с мешками и синяками под глазами

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иллюстрации:

Zlata Ziva

Мешки и синяки под глазами поддаются только косметическим процедурам. Кремами и сыворотками можно увлажнить и осветлить кожу, но на большее они не способны.


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Темные круги под глазами принято считать признаком усталости и нездоровья, но часто это не так. Просто кожа вокруг глаз — очень тонкая. Настолько, что сквозь нее просвечивают капилляры, придавая коже сине-фиолетовый оттенок. Синяки становятся заметнее, когда кожа стареет, но это лишь косметическое изменение. А вот если вы замечаете, что тон кожи под глазами ближе к темно-коричневому, скорее всего это не классические «темные круги», а природная пигментация или пигментные пятна. Они могут появиться в том числе от частых контактов с солнцем — если не наносить средства с SPF и не надевать достаточно большие темные очки. Бороться с ними стоит так же, как и с любым другим типом пигментации на лице — осветляющими средствами, например, с азелаиновой кислотой. 


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То же самое можно сказать про мешки под глазами. Быстрая отечность напрямую связана со строением человеческого века. Жировая клетчатка глаза легко накапливает жидкость и растягивает кожу до заметного отека. Способность кожи сдерживать жидкость определяет коллагеновый каркас: чем лучше вырабатывается коллаген, тем меньше вероятность отека. 


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Конечно, курение, алкоголь и недосып приводят к спазму сосудов и застою лимфы в капиллярах — расширяясь и лопаясь от перенапряжения, они усиливают синюшный оттенок кожи. Но даже если вы спите долго, но при этом неправильно, результат может быть ровно таким же. Идеальное положение для сна — на спине с чуть приподнятой головой. В противном случае, лимфа не «стекает» обратно в тело. А если синяки сопровождают вас всю жизнь, скорее всего, отказ от никотина и 8-часовой сон в правильном положении глобально картину не изменит — причина в генах. Часто достаточно посмотреть на родителей, чтобы понять, каких изменений кожи вокруг глаз ждать в дальнейшем.

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Бывает, что темные круги и мешки под глазами действительно сигнализируют о сбое в организме, скорее всего связанном с выделительной (нарушается лимфоток, образуются отеки) или кровеносной (спазм сосудов усиливает синюшность) системой. Так что всегда имеет смысл проконсультироваться с терапевтом прежде, чем обращаться к косметологу. А вот решить эту проблему с помощью косметики скорее всего не удастся: ухаживающая косметика, к сожалению, по-настоящему бороться с синяками и мешками не способна, хотя постоянное увлажнение может помочь коже не истончаться еще сильнее. Самый эффективный косметический способ избавления от темных кругов — консилер. Против небольших мешков хорошо работает массаж, компрессы и другие средства, разгоняющие лимфу. Но для более глубокого эффекта потребуются косметические процедуры.

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Инъекции препарата MesoEye™ C71


Мезотерапия (множественные подкожные инъекции) — самый понятный и простой метод избавления от кругов под глазами. Препарат, состоящий из пептидов, гиалуроновой кислоты, витамина А, С и Е вводят под кожу нижнего и верхнего века десятком неглубоких проколов. Активные вещества работают на восстановление кровотока: уходит спазм сосудов, ускоряется лимфообращение.


MesoEye™ C71 советуют еще и потому, что он не вызывает отеков. Стандартный курс — от трех до 6 процедур. Учтите, что с очень сильной отечностью препарат самостоятельно не справится, но может стать хорошей подготовкой к блефаропластике и подходящей реабилитацией после.


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PRP-терапия RegenLab (плазмолифтинг)


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Это снова стимуляция выработки коллагена и эластина, но с помощью собственной плазмы крови пациента. Введение дополнительной плазмы стимулирует регенерацию клеток, плюс риск конфликта с препаратом сведен к нулю. Выделение плазмы из крови пациента происходит прямо перед процедурой.


У этой процедуры есть очень конкретные противопоказания: ее нельзя делать людям, принимающим антикоагулянты, а также пациентам с заболеваниями крови и печени.



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Радиочастотная RF-терапия, RF-лифтинг


RF-терапия работает с помощью энергии колебания электромагнитных волн: слои дермы прогреваются, от такого стресса коллаген начинает вырабатываться быстрее. В результате, во-первых, кожа слегка утолщается, то есть сосуды просвечивают не так сильно, а во-вторых, повышается тонус кожи, что дает ей возможность лучше удерживать накопленную влагу. 


Часто радиочастотную терапию применяют вместе с стимуляцией микроиглами. Один из примеров — микроигольчатый RF-лифтинг на аппарате Infini. "Метод не требует длительной реабилитации, к нему можно прибегать в любое время года, главное, использовать средства с SPF после полного заживления. За счет большого количества проколов и точного клинического воздействия он эффективно снимает застой и уплотняет ткани — увеличивается выработка фибробластов, отвечающих за увлажнение и питание кожи. После процедуры появляется легкая краснота и отечность, которые проходят через 2-3 дня. Сократить период реабилитации и усилить эффект RF-терапии можно светотерапией» — описывает действие процедуры врач-дерматовенеролог, косметолог клиники Aging Control Вячеслав Сергеевич Иванов.

 



Ультразвуковой лифтинг Ulthera

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Метод Ulthera в первую очередь работает на усиление коллагенового каркаса. 

Аппарат выпускает два ультразвуковых луча, которые фокусируются на нужной глубине и провоцируют синтез нового коллагена. За интенсивностью воздействия специалист следит прямо во время выполнения процедуры — с помощью УЗИ. «Процедура решает сразу несколько проблем — позволяет стимулировать собственный коллагеногенез, усиливает микроциркуляцию, сокращает периорбитальную мышцу» — объясняет врач-дерматокосметолог «Клиники современной косметологии Юлии Щербатовой» Мария Мерекина.


Эффект от метода Ulthera приближается к эффекту от пластической операции, только без разрезов и с минимальным периодом реабилитации (примерно 1-2 часа). Поэтому на российском рынке появляются подделки Ulthera System. Проверить оригинальность аппарата в салоне можно на сайте поставщика. 




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Лазер Clear and Brilliant


«Фраксель» — устоявшееся название для лазерной процедуры на аппаратах Fraxel. Лазер стимулирует синтез коллагена, поэтому его часто применяют для лечения шрамов, акне и общего омоложения кожи. Но эта процедура требует внимательности, фраксели бывают разными. Хотя все они одобрены для работы на веках, некоторые все таки слишком агрессивны для тонкой кожи и рассчитаны на избавление от рубцов. Так, например, Fraxel re:pair проникает в кожу слишком глубоко — для области вокруг глаз, где все находится на поверхности, это бессмысленно.


Чтобы ускорить синтез нового коллагена под глазами, подойдет глубина проникновения лазера Clear and Brilliant — можно сказать, что это лайт-версия Фракселя. Кроме утолщения кожи, аппарат способен избавить от мелких морщин и пигментации.


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Филлеры


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Часто мешки под глазами становятся заметными, когда после резкого похудения происходит птоз («обвисание» кожи). Филлерами можно восполнить недостающие объемы, но это скорее косметическая мера. Специалисты рекомендуют особенно ответственно подойти к выбору специалиста — если эффект аппаратных методик зависит во многом от техники, то в случае с филлерами стоит полагаться только на умение врача.


«Филлеры, как правило, используют для коррекции носослезной борозды, для того, чтобы замаскировать синеву и увлажнить кожу. Это обычно заключительный этап комплексного воздействия (в зависимости от проблем пациента, его возраста и протокола врач комбинирует филлер с Ulthera-терапией, лазером и микротоками). Процедура требует от специалиста высокой квалификации, опыта и филигранной работы небольшим объёмом препарата. Важно верно оценить степень выраженности мешка и склонность пациента к отечности, так как филлеры на основе гиалуроновой кислоты в некоторых случаях могут ее провоцировать» — предупреждает Мария Мерекина.


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Состав филлера также влияет на скорость реабилитации и общий эффект от процедуры. Косметолог клиники Aging Control Вячеслав Иванов советует филлер Teosyal Redensity 2, как безопасный препарат для зоны вокруг глаз, который, к тому же, не дает отеков.


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А BB-Glow?


В последнее время Instagram заполонила новая техника, которая обещает надолго избавить от синяков под глазами, — BB Glow. Грубо говоря, это нанесение тонирующего состава неглубоко под кожу. Кажется, что все логично: самый простой способ избавиться от синяка — консилер, его основное несовершенство — недолговечность. Идеальное решение — «татуировка» консилером. Однако недостатков у подобной процедуры больше, чем преимуществ. 


«Представьте себе, что вы загорели, а лицо осталось с тем самым «вбитым» тоном. Разница может быть заметна даже без воздействия солнечных лучей. Еще одна проблема — тон уходит (рассасывается) неравномерно. Создается впечатление, что у человека какое-то нарушение пигментации.


Говорят, что эффект от процедуры BB Glow сохраняется до года. Напомню, что кожа регулярно обновляется, поэтому ни о каком долгосрочном эффекте здесь говорить не приходится. Возможен только вариант регулярных поддерживающих процедур. Знают ли об этом пациенты, когда первый раз записываются на процедуру?


А главное, к сожалению, такой [телесный] цвет очень плохо поддается удалению лазером. Поэтому варианта передумать и вернуть всё назад у пациентов просто нет» — предупреждает врач-косметолог клиники Remedy Lab Надежда Склярова.


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