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Марка с большим будущим: Ahluwalia

Недавно Gucci запустили онлайн-платформу Gucci Vault, которая объединила редкие винтажные вещи бренда и предметы марок восходящих звезд индустрии. Среди них — Ahluwalia Прии Ахлувалии. Настя Сотник узнала от нее новость, которая обрадует всех вас.

Когда летом этого года в числе марок мужской одежды, на которые The Blueprint советует обратить особое внимание, мы рассказали про Ahluwalia Прии Ахлувалии, женская часть редакции по-честному обливалась слезами. Дело в том, что все три года, которые существует бренд, дизайнер фокусировалась на мужской одежде — но в этом сезоне наконец-то представила женскую линию, о чем рассказала нам как раз на запуске Gucci Vault в Милане. «В женских вещах я продолжу все темы и эстетические коды, которые мы задали в мужских. Но при этом они будут намного сексуальнее — мне лично нравится подчеркнутая сексуальность в одежде», — рассказывала Ахлувалия.

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Ahluwalia, весна–лето 2022

Это все еще Ahluwalia с ее ключевыми техниками — петчворком, апсайклингом, ручной работой — и кодами. Это вещи на стыке моды и спорта, отсылки к индийским и нигерийским корням дизайнера — просто переложенные на «женский» крой. В этом мы убедились, рассматривая коллекцию весна—лето 2022. «Меня вдохновили карты миграции и то, что происходит, когда смешиваются культуры. Я изучала Гарлемский ренессанс [период расцвета афроамериканской культуры в 1920-е и 1930-е], ключевое время для культуры темнокожих людей в Америке. Я слушала музыку того времени, смотрела работы художников — отсюда, например, цвета коллекции. А принты — это преобразованные графики миграции», — уточняет Прия.

Ahluwalia x GANNI 2021

Ahluwalia x GANNI 2021

Все вещи Ахлувалия продолжает создавать из винтажных предметов и тканей, а также из перерабатываемых и органических материалов. Устойчивыми получились и аксессуары, и обувь — результат коллаборации Ahluwalia и британского бренда Mulberry, который в последние годы сосредоточился на предметах из экокожи. Поработав над обувью для этой коллекции, в будущем дизайнер планирует всерьез заняться и этим направлением. Мы и не сомневаемся: в конце концов, на женскую коллекцию Прия решилась после коллаборации со скандинавским брендом Ganni, релиз которой состоялся в апреле. «Конечно, о женской линии я задумывалась задолго до этого. Но дело в том, что, когда ты создаешь собственный бренд, слишком много всего нужно делать самому. Я хотела сначала хорошо отстроить бизнес-процессы, а потом уже пуститься во все тяжкие как дизайнер. Чтобы уделять всем направлениям достаточно времени», — объясняет она.

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Ahluwalia, осень-зима 2021

Ahluwalia, осень-зима 2019

Прия Ахлувалия создает не только модные коллекции, но и арт-проекты, например, короткометражные фильмы и фотокниги. Все это находит отклик в индустрии: дизайнер уже стала лауреатом премий H&M Design Award 2019, LVMH Prize 2020 и даже получила награду Елизаветы II за вклад в британскую моду. При этом Ахлувалии одинаково интересны и творчество, и бизнес. «Я люблю непосредственно строить свое дело, продумывать бизнес-стратегию. Причем в большинстве случаев шаги, которые предпринимает Ahluwalia, инстинктивны — я просто доверяю своему чутью. Знаю, что многим дизайнерам часто не хватает партнера, который ведет бренд как коммерческий продукт. Я же нашла такого партнера в самой себе. Мне нравятся и творчество, и бизнес — обе составляющие моего бренда», — уточняет она.

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Ahluwalia, весна–лето 2021

Для Ahluwalia 2021-й был не только плодотворным, но и очень ответственным. Как говорит сама дизайнер, сотрудничество с Gucci Vault, начавшееся еще с участия в Gucci Fest, — не последний громкий шаг бренда на пути к успеху. «Это все, конечно, не дает мне спать по ночам, но я в предвкушении», — говорит она. Мы тоже, ведь в ближайших планах у Ahluwalia много громких премьер, и фильм в честь женской коллекции лишь первая из них.

Читайте главные новости из мира моды, красоты и культуры в телеграм-канале
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