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Есть ли будущее у обновленного Patou?

На Неделе моды в Париже состоялась презентация новой коллекции дома Patou — первой после 30-летнего перерыва. Есть ли шансы у возрожденного легендарного бренда вернуть себе былую славу? Об этом рассуждает ведущая telegram-канала Front Fashion Ольга Михайловская.

Первая коллекция возрожденного Patou выглядит, к сожалению, не слишком убедительно. Это прекрасный старый дом (ему как раз в этом году 100 лет) с очень хорошей, извините за выражение, ДНК. Главный соперник Chanel в 1910–1920-е годы, вечный конкурент за «право первой ночи» маленького черного платья. И Гийом Анри — отличный выбор для возрождения этого дома. Именно он когда-то, десять лет назад, блестяще реанимировал Carven, превратив бренд, о существовании которого никто моложе 80 не то что не вспоминал, но, скорее всего, никогда и слыхом не слыхивал, в модную живую марку.


У него есть интуитивное понимание «французского» — того самого, трудноуловимого, почти не передаваемого словами. Легкого в обращении, абсолютно носимого, и тем не менее магнетически привлекательного стиля. А Пату был как раз именно про это. Про комфорт и простоту, молодость и энергию. Он придумал юбку для тенниса и трикотажные купальные костюмы, одевал звезду Уимблдона Сюзанн Ленглен и первую американскую женщину-летчицу Рут Элдер.

<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/B24yYnVgVTO/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" data-instgrm-version="12" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:540px; min-width:326px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"><div style="padding:16px;"> <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/B24yYnVgVTO/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style=" background:#FFFFFF; line-height:0; padding:0 0; text-align:center; text-decoration:none; width:100%;" target="_blank" rel="nofollow"> <div style=" display: flex; flex-direction: row; align-items: center;"> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 40px; margin-right: 14px; width: 40px;"></div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; 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font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:550; line-height:18px;"> View this post on Instagram</div></div><div style="padding: 12.5% 0;"></div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: row; margin-bottom: 14px; align-items: center;"><div> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(0px) translateY(7px);"></div> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; height: 12.5px; transform: rotate(-45deg) translateX(3px) translateY(1px); width: 12.5px; flex-grow: 0; margin-right: 14px; margin-left: 2px;"></div> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(9px) translateY(-18px);"></div></div><div style="margin-left: 8px;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 20px; width: 20px;"></div> <div style=" width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 2px solid transparent; border-left: 6px solid #f4f4f4; border-bottom: 2px solid transparent; transform: translateX(16px) translateY(-4px) rotate(30deg)"></div></div><div style="margin-left: auto;"> <div style=" width: 0px; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-right: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(16px);"></div> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; flex-grow: 0; height: 12px; width: 16px; transform: translateY(-4px);"></div> <div style=" width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-left: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(-4px) translateX(8px);"></div></div></div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center; margin-bottom: 24px;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 224px;"></div> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 144px;"></div></div></a><p style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/B24yYnVgVTO/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none;" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">A post shared by PATOU (@patou)</a> on <time style=" font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px;" datetime="2019-09-26T20:15:17+00:00">Sep 26, 2019 at 1:15pm PDT</time></p></div></blockquote> <script async src="//www.instagram.com/embed.js"></script>

Купальник Patou

Рут Элдер

Сюзанн Ленглен

И вроде бы в первой коллекции Гийома Анри все это есть, и все это хорошо сделано, но чего-то не хватает. И как ни странно, возможно, не хватает именно подачи. Полноценного показа или маленького фильма. Он говорит, что хотел сделать презентацию на сотрудницах дома Patou, чтобы показать, что это одежда для обычных людей. И что каждая вещь будет иметь код, отсканировав который, мы узнаем, где именно она была произведена и откуда взялись материалы для ее изготовления. Все это звучит очень бодро и многообещающе, но это слова, и они не могут восполнить того самого неуловимого, что создает магию любого бренда. И уж тем более бренда, возрождаемого если не из небытия, то уж точно из очень долгого 30-летнего забвения.



<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/B25zFpjo-J5/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" data-instgrm-version="12" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:540px; min-width:326px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"><div style="padding:16px;"> <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/B25zFpjo-J5/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style=" background:#FFFFFF; line-height:0; padding:0 0; text-align:center; text-decoration:none; width:100%;" target="_blank" rel="nofollow"> <div style=" display: flex; flex-direction: row; align-items: center;"> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 40px; margin-right: 14px; width: 40px;"></div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; 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overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/B25zFpjo-J5/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none;" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">A post shared by Guillaume Henry (@guillaumemarcdamienhenry)</a> on <time style=" font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px;" datetime="2019-09-27T05:34:39+00:00">Sep 26, 2019 at 10:34pm PDT</time></p></div></blockquote> <script async src="//www.instagram.com/embed.js"></script>
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overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/B250VB7ILnn/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none;" target="_blank" rel="nofollow">A post shared by Guillaume Henry (@guillaumemarcdamienhenry)</a> on <time style=" font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px;" datetime="2019-09-27T05:45:30+00:00">Sep 26, 2019 at 10:45pm PDT</time></p></div></blockquote> <script async src="//www.instagram.com/embed.js"></script>
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Мне уже понятно, кто будет покупать и носить эти широченные стираные джинсы и кружевные блузки, я уже вижу, как классические юбки с милой атласной оборкой по подолу станут хитом, а белые сорочки с огромными воротниками-бантами все наденут именно так, с классическим черным пальто. И да, мне понятно, что все это может и должно стать воплощением того самого парижского шика, о котором в последние годы все кругом твердят с таким завидным постоянством. Но для этого, как мне кажется, LVMH должен чуть поднапрячься и не бросать Гийома Анри на произвол судьбы с этими нарочито бытовыми презентациями на фоне гладильной доски, а поддержать его имиджево, буквально чуть-чуть подтолкнуть. И тогда успех может превзойти все ожидания. Потому что он, Гийом Анри — совсем не про хайп, он — про одежду. И эта одежда имеет все шансы очень хорошо продаваться.

Лучшие материалы The Blueprint
в нашем канале на Яндекс.Дзен

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