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Что нужно знать о Матье Блази

15 ноября, спустя ровно пять дней после шокирующей новости об уходе Дэниела Ли с должности креативного директора Bottega Veneta, стало известно имя его преемника. Предсказания экспертов индустрии сбылись — им стал 37-летний Матье Блази, правая рука Ли, дизайн-директор марки, которому The New York Times и The Business of Fashion уже давно прочили заветное место во главе большого модного дома. Оно и понятно — у Блази блестящее резюме и хорошая репутация в профессиональной среде. Рассказываем подробнее, какие заслуги привели его в кресло креативного директора Bottega Veneta. 

Отличник и фанат Жан-Поля Готье

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В 2007 году 23-летнему Матье Блази вручили диплом об окончании бельгийской школы искусств La Cambre (с отличием!), которая подарила миру дизайна и моды много дарований, например, Энтони Ваккарелло и Оливье Тискенса. Вместе с «корочкой» о высшем образовании Матье получил свое первое предложение о работе — и не от кого-нибудь, а от Рафа Симонса. Молодого дизайнера взяли в команду Raf Simons сразу после показа выпускной коллекции, которую Блази посвятил французской космонавтке Клоди Эньере, современному художнику Дэниелу Зеллеру и американскому концептуалисту Гордону Матта-Кларку. Кроме вещей о профессиональных навыках талантливого выпускника говорил еще и опыт: за время обучения в La Cambre он успел постажироваться в Balenciaga при Николя Гескьере и у Джона Гальяно в его John Galliano Studio. А еще получить специальный приз в конкурсе Lancôme Сolor Designs Awards. Такому портфолио уже можно было позавидовать, не так ли? Наверное, иначе и не могло быть с юношей, который в 16 не просто лицом к лицу встретился со своим кумиром, но и получил от него важный профессиональный совет. В случае с Блази это был Жан-Поль Готье. «Я встретил вас на гей-параде в Париже, когда мне исполнилось 16. Я спросил вашего совета, и вы сказали мне: «Учись, усердно работай, будь увлеченным», — вспоминал Блази свою первую встречу с великим дизайнером. Того совета Матье, похоже, старательно придерживается до сих пор, а его личная любовь к гению Готье отражается во внушительном архиве ценных предметов Jean Paul Gaultier, среди которых есть, например, свитер и юбка из конструктивистской коллекции осень–зима 1986.

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Протеже Рафа Симонса

Матье Блази быстро нашел общий язык со своим первым работодателем. «У него невероятно творческая натура. Он приходит со множеством идей, готовностью экспериментировать, и это сильно мотивирует его команду», — вспоминал Раф Симонс работу с дизайнером, который после La Cambre пришел в Raf Simons помогать с мужскими коллекциями. Рабочие отношения со временем переросли в крепкую дружбу. После RS им еще довелось поработать друг с другом, а сегодня Раф Симонс всегда заглядывает на бэкстейдж к Матье Блази. Тот, в свою очередь, неизменно аплодирует наставнику из первого ряда, будь то показ Christian Dior, Jil Sander или Prada.

Как Матье Блази и Сьюзи Менкес сломали интернет

Звезда Матье Блази официально взошла 9 июля 2014 года. Именно этот день выбрала Сьюзи Менкес, на тот момент международный модный редактор Vogue, чтобы опубликовать рецензию под громким заголовком «В Margiela родилась звезда» (At Margiela, a Star is Born). В тексте она ответила на вопрос, который висел в воздухе с тех пор, как Мартин Маржела покинул свой бренд: кто же стал отвечать за кутюрные и женские коллекции MM (спойлер: Матье Блази). На том, чтобы не раскрывать это публично, настаивало руководство модного дома, желавшее придерживаться принципов анонимности, заданной основателем бренда. Но Сьюзи Менкес самовольно раскрыла тайну, оправдав себя тем, что «нельзя держать такой талант в секрете!». Чтобы новость не прошла незамеченной, она еще и выложила у себя в инстаграме трогательную фотографию дизайнера в обнимку с Рафом Симонсом, сделанную на бэкстейдже сразу после показа Maison Margiela Artisanal. Пост вызвал большой резонанс: разоблачение автора кутюрных и женских ready-to-wear-коллекций Maison Margiela обсуждали все — и таблоиды, например, Daily Mail, и серьезные индустриальные издания. The Business of Fashion по следам этой истории выпустили большой фичер о том, могут ли люксовые бренды сохранить анонимность во времена соцсетей. Наиболее удачный заголовок по теме тогда получился у The Cut: «Самый известный дизайнер, о котором вы никогда не слышали».

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Кстати, в материале Сьюзи Менкес есть еще один эксклюзив — кажется, единственная в онлайн-пространстве цитата самого Матье Блази (да, в интернете нет ни одного интервью дизайнера, и вообще он немногословен в общении с прессой). «Это принадлежало Полю Пуаре», — рассказал Блази Сьюзи Менкес о пальто, побывавшем на вечеринке 1911 года, которое команда ателье Margiela перешила и использовала в новой кутюрной коллекции. Уверены, знал бы Матье, для какого материала дает эту цитату, все равно не захотел бы добавить ничего больше. Судя по поведению дизайнера, он не очень любит быть в центре внимания, вводя в фокус исключительно вещи, с которыми работает. Сегодня это, безусловно, большая ценность — правда, и уязвимость одновременно.

Впечатляющее резюме

Maison Margiela Artisanal весна–лето 2013

Maison Margiela Artisanal весна–лето 2014

Maison Margiela Artisanal осень–зима 2014

За четыре года работы в Maison Margiela Матье Блази успел обзавестись армией звездных поклонников. Среди них — Кейт Мосс, Энн Хэтэуэй, Ким Кардашьян и Канье Уэст. В 2014 году кресло креативного директора Maison Margiela занял Джон Гальяно, а Матье Блази перешел в Céline на должность старшего дизайнера. Под руководством Фиби Файло он проработал два года — а дальше, пока пресса наперебой делала ставки, какой же бренд наконец-то возглавит Блази (например, NY Times уверяли, что Матье вот-вот станет креативным директором Hermès), он решил совместить работу, дружбу и даже любовь. Так, летом 2016 года пошла новая волна слухов о новой работе Матье, когда представители Calvin Klein официально подтвердили, что покинувший Christian Dior Раф Симонс возглавит американскую марку. Так что, когда 14 августа 2016-го Матье Блази сообщил своим инстаграм-подписчикам радостную весть о переезде в Нью-Йорк, инсайдерам индустрии было легко угадать причину внезапной смены места жительства. «CK?» — прокомментировала пост модный критик Сара Мауэр. Догадка подтвердилась — в резюме Блази появилась новая строчка: «Вице-президент женской и мужской линии одежды Calvin Klein 205W39NYC» (VP of design for womenswear and menswear). Там Матье Блази работал плечом к плечу не только с Рафом, но и со своим партнером Питером Мюлье — еще одним протеже Симонса, сегодня — креативным директором Alaia. Не зря после назначения Матье Блази на пост креативного директора Bottega Veneta Рафа Симонса в шутку окрестили «гордым отцом» — теперь оба его главных любимчика вышли из тени, чтобы поднимать продажи двух больших брендов.

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transform: translateX(16px) translateY(-4px) rotate(30deg)"></div></div><div style="margin-left: auto;"> <div style=" width: 0px; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-right: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(16px);"></div> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; flex-grow: 0; height: 12px; width: 16px; transform: translateY(-4px);"></div> <div style=" width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-left: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(-4px) translateX(8px);"></div></div></div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center; margin-bottom: 24px;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 224px;"></div> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 144px;"></div></div></a><p style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/t99agTOc7p/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none;" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noreferrer">A post shared by Matthieu Blazy (@matthieu_blazy)</a></p></div></blockquote> <script async src="//www.instagram.com/embed.js"></script>
<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/Bsa9GuRgcmp/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" data-instgrm-version="14" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:540px; min-width:326px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"><div style="padding:16px;"> <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/Bsa9GuRgcmp/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style=" background:#FFFFFF; line-height:0; padding:0 0; text-align:center; text-decoration:none; width:100%;" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noreferrer"> <div style=" display: flex; flex-direction: row; align-items: center;"> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 40px; margin-right: 14px; width: 40px;"></div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 100px;"></div> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 60px;"></div></div></div><div style="padding: 19% 0;"></div> <div style="display:block; height:50px; margin:0 auto 12px; width:50px;"><svg width="50px" height="50px" viewBox="0 0 60 60" version="1.1" xmlns="https://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="https://www.w3.org/1999/xlink"><g stroke="none" stroke-width="1" fill="none" fill-rule="evenodd"><g transform="translate(-511.000000, -20.000000)" fill="#000000"><g><path d="M556.869,30.41 C554.814,30.41 553.148,32.076 553.148,34.131 C553.148,36.186 554.814,37.852 556.869,37.852 C558.924,37.852 560.59,36.186 560.59,34.131 C560.59,32.076 558.924,30.41 556.869,30.41 M541,60.657 C535.114,60.657 530.342,55.887 530.342,50 C530.342,44.114 535.114,39.342 541,39.342 C546.887,39.342 551.658,44.114 551.658,50 C551.658,55.887 546.887,60.657 541,60.657 M541,33.886 C532.1,33.886 524.886,41.1 524.886,50 C524.886,58.899 532.1,66.113 541,66.113 C549.9,66.113 557.115,58.899 557.115,50 C557.115,41.1 549.9,33.886 541,33.886 M565.378,62.101 C565.244,65.022 564.756,66.606 564.346,67.663 C563.803,69.06 563.154,70.057 562.106,71.106 C561.058,72.155 560.06,72.803 558.662,73.347 C557.607,73.757 556.021,74.244 553.102,74.378 C549.944,74.521 548.997,74.552 541,74.552 C533.003,74.552 532.056,74.521 528.898,74.378 C525.979,74.244 524.393,73.757 523.338,73.347 C521.94,72.803 520.942,72.155 519.894,71.106 C518.846,70.057 518.197,69.06 517.654,67.663 C517.244,66.606 516.755,65.022 516.623,62.101 C516.479,58.943 516.448,57.996 516.448,50 C516.448,42.003 516.479,41.056 516.623,37.899 C516.755,34.978 517.244,33.391 517.654,32.338 C518.197,30.938 518.846,29.942 519.894,28.894 C520.942,27.846 521.94,27.196 523.338,26.654 C524.393,26.244 525.979,25.756 528.898,25.623 C532.057,25.479 533.004,25.448 541,25.448 C548.997,25.448 549.943,25.479 553.102,25.623 C556.021,25.756 557.607,26.244 558.662,26.654 C560.06,27.196 561.058,27.846 562.106,28.894 C563.154,29.942 563.803,30.938 564.346,32.338 C564.756,33.391 565.244,34.978 565.378,37.899 C565.522,41.056 565.552,42.003 565.552,50 C565.552,57.996 565.522,58.943 565.378,62.101 M570.82,37.631 C570.674,34.438 570.167,32.258 569.425,30.349 C568.659,28.377 567.633,26.702 565.965,25.035 C564.297,23.368 562.623,22.342 560.652,21.575 C558.743,20.834 556.562,20.326 553.369,20.18 C550.169,20.033 549.148,20 541,20 C532.853,20 531.831,20.033 528.631,20.18 C525.438,20.326 523.257,20.834 521.349,21.575 C519.376,22.342 517.703,23.368 516.035,25.035 C514.368,26.702 513.342,28.377 512.574,30.349 C511.834,32.258 511.326,34.438 511.181,37.631 C511.035,40.831 511,41.851 511,50 C511,58.147 511.035,59.17 511.181,62.369 C511.326,65.562 511.834,67.743 512.574,69.651 C513.342,71.625 514.368,73.296 516.035,74.965 C517.703,76.634 519.376,77.658 521.349,78.425 C523.257,79.167 525.438,79.673 528.631,79.82 C531.831,79.965 532.853,80.001 541,80.001 C549.148,80.001 550.169,79.965 553.369,79.82 C556.562,79.673 558.743,79.167 560.652,78.425 C562.623,77.658 564.297,76.634 565.965,74.965 C567.633,73.296 568.659,71.625 569.425,69.651 C570.167,67.743 570.674,65.562 570.82,62.369 C570.966,59.17 571,58.147 571,50 C571,41.851 570.966,40.831 570.82,37.631"></path></g></g></g></svg></div><div style="padding-top: 8px;"> <div style=" color:#3897f0; 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transform: translateX(16px) translateY(-4px) rotate(30deg)"></div></div><div style="margin-left: auto;"> <div style=" width: 0px; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-right: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(16px);"></div> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; flex-grow: 0; height: 12px; width: 16px; transform: translateY(-4px);"></div> <div style=" width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-left: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(-4px) translateX(8px);"></div></div></div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center; margin-bottom: 24px;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 224px;"></div> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 144px;"></div></div></a><p style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/Bsa9GuRgcmp/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none;" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noreferrer">A post shared by Matthieu Blazy (@matthieu_blazy)</a></p></div></blockquote> <script async src="//www.instagram.com/embed.js"></script>
<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/CEhXnyggExL/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" data-instgrm-version="14" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:540px; min-width:326px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"><div style="padding:16px;"> <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CEhXnyggExL/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style=" background:#FFFFFF; line-height:0; padding:0 0; text-align:center; text-decoration:none; width:100%;" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noreferrer"> <div style=" display: flex; flex-direction: row; align-items: center;"> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 40px; margin-right: 14px; width: 40px;"></div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 100px;"></div> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 60px;"></div></div></div><div style="padding: 19% 0;"></div> <div style="display:block; height:50px; margin:0 auto 12px; width:50px;"><svg width="50px" height="50px" viewBox="0 0 60 60" version="1.1" xmlns="https://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="https://www.w3.org/1999/xlink"><g stroke="none" stroke-width="1" fill="none" fill-rule="evenodd"><g transform="translate(-511.000000, -20.000000)" fill="#000000"><g><path d="M556.869,30.41 C554.814,30.41 553.148,32.076 553.148,34.131 C553.148,36.186 554.814,37.852 556.869,37.852 C558.924,37.852 560.59,36.186 560.59,34.131 C560.59,32.076 558.924,30.41 556.869,30.41 M541,60.657 C535.114,60.657 530.342,55.887 530.342,50 C530.342,44.114 535.114,39.342 541,39.342 C546.887,39.342 551.658,44.114 551.658,50 C551.658,55.887 546.887,60.657 541,60.657 M541,33.886 C532.1,33.886 524.886,41.1 524.886,50 C524.886,58.899 532.1,66.113 541,66.113 C549.9,66.113 557.115,58.899 557.115,50 C557.115,41.1 549.9,33.886 541,33.886 M565.378,62.101 C565.244,65.022 564.756,66.606 564.346,67.663 C563.803,69.06 563.154,70.057 562.106,71.106 C561.058,72.155 560.06,72.803 558.662,73.347 C557.607,73.757 556.021,74.244 553.102,74.378 C549.944,74.521 548.997,74.552 541,74.552 C533.003,74.552 532.056,74.521 528.898,74.378 C525.979,74.244 524.393,73.757 523.338,73.347 C521.94,72.803 520.942,72.155 519.894,71.106 C518.846,70.057 518.197,69.06 517.654,67.663 C517.244,66.606 516.755,65.022 516.623,62.101 C516.479,58.943 516.448,57.996 516.448,50 C516.448,42.003 516.479,41.056 516.623,37.899 C516.755,34.978 517.244,33.391 517.654,32.338 C518.197,30.938 518.846,29.942 519.894,28.894 C520.942,27.846 521.94,27.196 523.338,26.654 C524.393,26.244 525.979,25.756 528.898,25.623 C532.057,25.479 533.004,25.448 541,25.448 C548.997,25.448 549.943,25.479 553.102,25.623 C556.021,25.756 557.607,26.244 558.662,26.654 C560.06,27.196 561.058,27.846 562.106,28.894 C563.154,29.942 563.803,30.938 564.346,32.338 C564.756,33.391 565.244,34.978 565.378,37.899 C565.522,41.056 565.552,42.003 565.552,50 C565.552,57.996 565.522,58.943 565.378,62.101 M570.82,37.631 C570.674,34.438 570.167,32.258 569.425,30.349 C568.659,28.377 567.633,26.702 565.965,25.035 C564.297,23.368 562.623,22.342 560.652,21.575 C558.743,20.834 556.562,20.326 553.369,20.18 C550.169,20.033 549.148,20 541,20 C532.853,20 531.831,20.033 528.631,20.18 C525.438,20.326 523.257,20.834 521.349,21.575 C519.376,22.342 517.703,23.368 516.035,25.035 C514.368,26.702 513.342,28.377 512.574,30.349 C511.834,32.258 511.326,34.438 511.181,37.631 C511.035,40.831 511,41.851 511,50 C511,58.147 511.035,59.17 511.181,62.369 C511.326,65.562 511.834,67.743 512.574,69.651 C513.342,71.625 514.368,73.296 516.035,74.965 C517.703,76.634 519.376,77.658 521.349,78.425 C523.257,79.167 525.438,79.673 528.631,79.82 C531.831,79.965 532.853,80.001 541,80.001 C549.148,80.001 550.169,79.965 553.369,79.82 C556.562,79.673 558.743,79.167 560.652,78.425 C562.623,77.658 564.297,76.634 565.965,74.965 C567.633,73.296 568.659,71.625 569.425,69.651 C570.167,67.743 570.674,65.562 570.82,62.369 C570.966,59.17 571,58.147 571,50 C571,41.851 570.966,40.831 570.82,37.631"></path></g></g></g></svg></div><div style="padding-top: 8px;"> <div style=" color:#3897f0; 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Работа мечты в Bottega Veneta

В 2018-м люксовый конгломерат Kering задумал встряхнуть итальянский бренд с 52-летней историей и пригласил на должность креативного директора Дэниела Ли. Через два года к нему как раз присоединился Матье Блази. О его назначении мы узнали только спустя несколько недель благодаря источникам издания WWD — Kering не стали торжественно объявлять имя нового дизайн-директора Bottega Veneta. Дальше вы все знаете: бешеный успех The Pouch Bag, ставка на it-вещи, рост продаж, звание самого модного бренда года, блестящая мужская линия, за которую, памятуя резюме Блази, все были благодарны именно ему, и... внезапный уход Дэниела Ли 10 ноября 2021-го «по соглашению сторон». C тех пор имя Матье Блази звучало почти в каждом разговоре о будущем преемнике Ли, а 15 ноября его произнес и глава конгломерата Kering Франсуа-Анри Пино: «Я уверен, что богатый опыт и широкий кругозор Матье Блази позволят ему привнести творческий импульс в продолжение работы с наследием Bottega Veneta». Изменится ли бренд при новом креативном директоре? Официальный ответ СЕО BV Лео Ронгоне звучит так: «Матье сделает бренд еще более актуальным и ускорит наш рост, при этом сохранив ценности, которые лежат в основе Bottega Veneta». Профессионалы индустрии, например, критик NY Times Ванесса Фридман, в один голос твердят: «Это будет интересно». Сам же Блази в свойственной ему манере немногословен — пока есть только скромный пост в инстаграме с благодарностями в адрес главы Kering Франсуа Пино и СЕО бренда Лео Ронгоне — а дальше все скажут вещи: первый самостоятельный показ Матье Блази для Bottega Veneta пройдет в феврале.

<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/CP0aG1BARuz/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" data-instgrm-version="14" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:540px; min-width:326px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"><div style="padding:16px;"> <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CP0aG1BARuz/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style=" background:#FFFFFF; line-height:0; padding:0 0; text-align:center; text-decoration:none; width:100%;" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noreferrer"> <div style=" display: flex; flex-direction: row; align-items: center;"> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 40px; margin-right: 14px; width: 40px;"></div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; 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