Blueprint
T

Рано или поздно

В рамках Youth Issue мы уже писали о том, как мода заигрывает с возрастом, предоставляя молодым все возможности выглядеть старше, а взрослым — моложе. Колумнистка The Blueprint Юлия Выдолоб идет дальше и выдвигает радикальное предложение: забыть о возрасте вообще. Благо многие бренды с ней уже солидарны.

<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/CSggGQNApvW/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" data-instgrm-version="13" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:540px; min-width:326px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"><div style="padding:16px;"> <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CSggGQNApvW/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style=" background:#FFFFFF; line-height:0; padding:0 0; text-align:center; text-decoration:none; width:100%;" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noreferrer"> <div style=" display: flex; flex-direction: row; align-items: center;"> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 40px; margin-right: 14px; width: 40px;"></div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 100px;"></div> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 60px;"></div></div></div><div style="padding: 19% 0;"></div> <div style="display:block; height:50px; margin:0 auto 12px; width:50px;"><svg width="50px" height="50px" viewBox="0 0 60 60" version="1.1" xmlns="https://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="https://www.w3.org/1999/xlink"><g stroke="none" stroke-width="1" fill="none" fill-rule="evenodd"><g transform="translate(-511.000000, -20.000000)" fill="#000000"><g><path d="M556.869,30.41 C554.814,30.41 553.148,32.076 553.148,34.131 C553.148,36.186 554.814,37.852 556.869,37.852 C558.924,37.852 560.59,36.186 560.59,34.131 C560.59,32.076 558.924,30.41 556.869,30.41 M541,60.657 C535.114,60.657 530.342,55.887 530.342,50 C530.342,44.114 535.114,39.342 541,39.342 C546.887,39.342 551.658,44.114 551.658,50 C551.658,55.887 546.887,60.657 541,60.657 M541,33.886 C532.1,33.886 524.886,41.1 524.886,50 C524.886,58.899 532.1,66.113 541,66.113 C549.9,66.113 557.115,58.899 557.115,50 C557.115,41.1 549.9,33.886 541,33.886 M565.378,62.101 C565.244,65.022 564.756,66.606 564.346,67.663 C563.803,69.06 563.154,70.057 562.106,71.106 C561.058,72.155 560.06,72.803 558.662,73.347 C557.607,73.757 556.021,74.244 553.102,74.378 C549.944,74.521 548.997,74.552 541,74.552 C533.003,74.552 532.056,74.521 528.898,74.378 C525.979,74.244 524.393,73.757 523.338,73.347 C521.94,72.803 520.942,72.155 519.894,71.106 C518.846,70.057 518.197,69.06 517.654,67.663 C517.244,66.606 516.755,65.022 516.623,62.101 C516.479,58.943 516.448,57.996 516.448,50 C516.448,42.003 516.479,41.056 516.623,37.899 C516.755,34.978 517.244,33.391 517.654,32.338 C518.197,30.938 518.846,29.942 519.894,28.894 C520.942,27.846 521.94,27.196 523.338,26.654 C524.393,26.244 525.979,25.756 528.898,25.623 C532.057,25.479 533.004,25.448 541,25.448 C548.997,25.448 549.943,25.479 553.102,25.623 C556.021,25.756 557.607,26.244 558.662,26.654 C560.06,27.196 561.058,27.846 562.106,28.894 C563.154,29.942 563.803,30.938 564.346,32.338 C564.756,33.391 565.244,34.978 565.378,37.899 C565.522,41.056 565.552,42.003 565.552,50 C565.552,57.996 565.522,58.943 565.378,62.101 M570.82,37.631 C570.674,34.438 570.167,32.258 569.425,30.349 C568.659,28.377 567.633,26.702 565.965,25.035 C564.297,23.368 562.623,22.342 560.652,21.575 C558.743,20.834 556.562,20.326 553.369,20.18 C550.169,20.033 549.148,20 541,20 C532.853,20 531.831,20.033 528.631,20.18 C525.438,20.326 523.257,20.834 521.349,21.575 C519.376,22.342 517.703,23.368 516.035,25.035 C514.368,26.702 513.342,28.377 512.574,30.349 C511.834,32.258 511.326,34.438 511.181,37.631 C511.035,40.831 511,41.851 511,50 C511,58.147 511.035,59.17 511.181,62.369 C511.326,65.562 511.834,67.743 512.574,69.651 C513.342,71.625 514.368,73.296 516.035,74.965 C517.703,76.634 519.376,77.658 521.349,78.425 C523.257,79.167 525.438,79.673 528.631,79.82 C531.831,79.965 532.853,80.001 541,80.001 C549.148,80.001 550.169,79.965 553.369,79.82 C556.562,79.673 558.743,79.167 560.652,78.425 C562.623,77.658 564.297,76.634 565.965,74.965 C567.633,73.296 568.659,71.625 569.425,69.651 C570.167,67.743 570.674,65.562 570.82,62.369 C570.966,59.17 571,58.147 571,50 C571,41.851 570.966,40.831 570.82,37.631"></path></g></g></g></svg></div><div style="padding-top: 8px;"> <div style=" color:#3897f0; 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overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CSggGQNApvW/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none;" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noreferrer">A post shared by BOTIER (@botierofficial)</a></p></div></blockquote> <script async src="//www.instagram.com/embed.js"></script>

На фотографии — ухо мужчины средних лет. Видны лишь черные с проседью волосы и такая же борода. На ухе красуется кафф с бриллиантами разных форм. Этот пост старгетировался на меня в инстаграме. На таргетинг я реагирую по-разному. Чаще — быстро пролистываю, чтоб не отвлекал. Иногда смеюсь и кидаю скриншоты в секретный чат или задумываюсь, почему мне перестали показывать локальные марки, зато начался поток коучей (но сейчас не об этом). Реже всего — рассматриваю и подписываюсь. Ухо меня совершенно захватило. И вторая картинка в галерее тоже: на ней тоже ухо с каффом и прядью седых волос, но женское.


Это оказался инстаграм бельгийской ювелирной марки Botier. Я шерю пост у себя в сторис и получаю рекордное количество «сердечек» и «огоньков». Видимо, фотографии задели не только меня, хотя они явно были быстро сделаны на телефон. На фоне бесконечных девушек в тренчах в Столешке, видеообращений SEO стартапов и тикток-танцев в моей инстаграм-рекламе почему-то именно ухо попало точно в цель.


Еще несколько лет назад я почти не ощущала диалога брендов со мной: по подиумам ходили ультраюные модели, в лукбуках снимались другие юные модели. Мода выглядела как дело молодых, хотя на самом деле никогда им не была: любопытство, любовь к жизни, красота, игра, которые являются частью моды, не зависят от возраста, да и команды модных домов состоят совсем не из 20-летних. И хотя в последнем отчете McKinsey The State of Fashion 2021 брендам рекомендуют обращать внимание на молодежь (дескать, доля молодых покупателей продолжит расти), больше всего денег на свой гардероб пока тратят люди значительно старше.

Я не просто покупаю моду: я хочу, чтобы она говорила со мной. Не со мной — «женщиной за 40», какой меня представляют копирайтеры рекламных агентств, привыкшие сортировать людей по демографическим группам и типажам. В коммуникации, которая культивирует одну лишь юность (такого большинство) или отретушированную зрелость, я чувствую, что я в пролете.


Помните, как еще в 2010-е в рекламе иногда снимали женщин «постарше»? Но они были так сурово отфотошоплены и так навязчиво предлагали мне строго определенный продукт для определенного возраста, что с ними мне никогда не хотелось соотносить ни себя, ни кого-то еще. Фотошоп, кстати, тогда вышел боком: был целый прецедент с Джулией Робертс и Кристи Тарлингтон для Lancôme и Maybelline соответственно, рекламу с которыми забанили в Великобритании из-за чрезмерной ретуши).


Еще хуже, когда бренды противопоставляют поколения: в рекламе Tiffany & Co. «это не мамин Тиффани» я не хочу быть ни матерью, ни дочерью. Dolce & Gabbana тоже давно делают кампании с обаятельными итальянскими семьями, где я тоже не вижу себя. Простите, мне там встать, где мама, или уже лучше туда, где бабушка? Когда модель постарше вставляют в кадр, словно имплант (для инклюзивности и для нашей аудитории постарше), это всегда видно и не всегда приятно. В конце концов, многие марки прекрасно доносят до меня свои ценности и через 19-летних new faces. Главное — чтобы сами ценности, подход, эстетика были искренне инклюзивны.

<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/CRG3rcHgfa6/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" data-instgrm-version="13" style=" background:#FFF; border:0; border-radius:3px; box-shadow:0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width:540px; min-width:326px; padding:0; width:99.375%; width:-webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width:calc(100% - 2px);"><div style="padding:16px;"> <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CRG3rcHgfa6/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style=" background:#FFFFFF; line-height:0; padding:0 0; text-align:center; text-decoration:none; width:100%;" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noreferrer"> <div style=" display: flex; flex-direction: row; align-items: center;"> <div style="background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 40px; margin-right: 14px; width: 40px;"></div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 100px;"></div> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 60px;"></div></div></div><div style="padding: 19% 0;"></div> <div style="display:block; height:50px; margin:0 auto 12px; width:50px;"><svg width="50px" height="50px" viewBox="0 0 60 60" version="1.1" xmlns="https://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="https://www.w3.org/1999/xlink"><g stroke="none" stroke-width="1" fill="none" fill-rule="evenodd"><g transform="translate(-511.000000, -20.000000)" fill="#000000"><g><path d="M556.869,30.41 C554.814,30.41 553.148,32.076 553.148,34.131 C553.148,36.186 554.814,37.852 556.869,37.852 C558.924,37.852 560.59,36.186 560.59,34.131 C560.59,32.076 558.924,30.41 556.869,30.41 M541,60.657 C535.114,60.657 530.342,55.887 530.342,50 C530.342,44.114 535.114,39.342 541,39.342 C546.887,39.342 551.658,44.114 551.658,50 C551.658,55.887 546.887,60.657 541,60.657 M541,33.886 C532.1,33.886 524.886,41.1 524.886,50 C524.886,58.899 532.1,66.113 541,66.113 C549.9,66.113 557.115,58.899 557.115,50 C557.115,41.1 549.9,33.886 541,33.886 M565.378,62.101 C565.244,65.022 564.756,66.606 564.346,67.663 C563.803,69.06 563.154,70.057 562.106,71.106 C561.058,72.155 560.06,72.803 558.662,73.347 C557.607,73.757 556.021,74.244 553.102,74.378 C549.944,74.521 548.997,74.552 541,74.552 C533.003,74.552 532.056,74.521 528.898,74.378 C525.979,74.244 524.393,73.757 523.338,73.347 C521.94,72.803 520.942,72.155 519.894,71.106 C518.846,70.057 518.197,69.06 517.654,67.663 C517.244,66.606 516.755,65.022 516.623,62.101 C516.479,58.943 516.448,57.996 516.448,50 C516.448,42.003 516.479,41.056 516.623,37.899 C516.755,34.978 517.244,33.391 517.654,32.338 C518.197,30.938 518.846,29.942 519.894,28.894 C520.942,27.846 521.94,27.196 523.338,26.654 C524.393,26.244 525.979,25.756 528.898,25.623 C532.057,25.479 533.004,25.448 541,25.448 C548.997,25.448 549.943,25.479 553.102,25.623 C556.021,25.756 557.607,26.244 558.662,26.654 C560.06,27.196 561.058,27.846 562.106,28.894 C563.154,29.942 563.803,30.938 564.346,32.338 C564.756,33.391 565.244,34.978 565.378,37.899 C565.522,41.056 565.552,42.003 565.552,50 C565.552,57.996 565.522,58.943 565.378,62.101 M570.82,37.631 C570.674,34.438 570.167,32.258 569.425,30.349 C568.659,28.377 567.633,26.702 565.965,25.035 C564.297,23.368 562.623,22.342 560.652,21.575 C558.743,20.834 556.562,20.326 553.369,20.18 C550.169,20.033 549.148,20 541,20 C532.853,20 531.831,20.033 528.631,20.18 C525.438,20.326 523.257,20.834 521.349,21.575 C519.376,22.342 517.703,23.368 516.035,25.035 C514.368,26.702 513.342,28.377 512.574,30.349 C511.834,32.258 511.326,34.438 511.181,37.631 C511.035,40.831 511,41.851 511,50 C511,58.147 511.035,59.17 511.181,62.369 C511.326,65.562 511.834,67.743 512.574,69.651 C513.342,71.625 514.368,73.296 516.035,74.965 C517.703,76.634 519.376,77.658 521.349,78.425 C523.257,79.167 525.438,79.673 528.631,79.82 C531.831,79.965 532.853,80.001 541,80.001 C549.148,80.001 550.169,79.965 553.369,79.82 C556.562,79.673 558.743,79.167 560.652,78.425 C562.623,77.658 564.297,76.634 565.965,74.965 C567.633,73.296 568.659,71.625 569.425,69.651 C570.167,67.743 570.674,65.562 570.82,62.369 C570.966,59.17 571,58.147 571,50 C571,41.851 570.966,40.831 570.82,37.631"></path></g></g></g></svg></div><div style="padding-top: 8px;"> <div style=" color:#3897f0; 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transform: translateX(16px) translateY(-4px) rotate(30deg)"></div></div><div style="margin-left: auto;"> <div style=" width: 0px; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-right: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(16px);"></div> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; flex-grow: 0; height: 12px; width: 16px; transform: translateY(-4px);"></div> <div style=" width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-left: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(-4px) translateX(8px);"></div></div></div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center; margin-bottom: 24px;"> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 224px;"></div> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 144px;"></div></div></a><p style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; line-height:17px; margin-bottom:0; margin-top:8px; overflow:hidden; padding:8px 0 7px; text-align:center; text-overflow:ellipsis; white-space:nowrap;"><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CRG3rcHgfa6/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading" style=" color:#c9c8cd; font-family:Arial,sans-serif; font-size:14px; font-style:normal; font-weight:normal; line-height:17px; text-decoration:none;" target="_blank" rel="nofollow noreferrer">A post shared by Tiffany & Co. 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Поэтому мне очень нравится, что самые разные марки, большие и маленькие, кажется, нащупали верный тон — и я впервые понимаю, что со мной говорят. Как в ролике Крейга Макдина для Givenchy, где снялись Шарлотта Рэмплинг и Марк Джейкобс. Ей — 74, ему — 58, но об этом ли мы думаем, видя их в кадре? Конечно, нет — а о самоиронии, стати, умении элегантно разговаривать по туфле-мобильному, носить короткие штанишки с пиджаком и парчовые двойки. Или как в съемке второго дропа марки Юлии Пелипас Bettter с KSENIA SCHNAIDER, где появилась чудесная Марианна Шредер. Или в кадрах бренда Raey (собственной марки онлайн-магазина Matchesfashion). Меня очень вдохновляет, как выглядит и улыбается их постоянная модель Стефани Грейнджер — задорная и седовласая. Или всегда чудесная Галя Смирнская, которая в съемке марки Натальи Алавердян AWAKE смотрит на меня через пончик. Также на меня может рассчитывать любой бренд, который снял Хлое Севиньи и не отретушировал ее фото до состояния мумии.

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Проще говоря, мне хотелось бы, чтобы в диалоге бренда с покупателем возраста не было вовсе. Стиль — да, отношение к жизни — да. Спокойные и взрослые, но не скучные. Сдержанные, но не конвенциональные — я знаю, что таких, как я, много, и мы не соответствуем никакой цифре в паспорте.


Универсального вывода тут не будет. Разве что ощущение, что сейчас можно напрямую обратиться к любой, даже вроде бы немногочисленной аудитории — и получить лояльных клиентов. В том числе тех, кого бренды всегда были рады видеть в бутиках, но не спешили показывать в съемках. Ловите момент, он наш.


Лучшие материалы The Blueprint
в нашем канале на Яндекс.Дзен

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