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Марка с большим будущим: CH4RM Никиты Чекрыгина

Дизайнер и стилист Никита Чекрыгин — один из «100 героев будущего» по версии The Blueprint 100. В этот список он попал как основатель бренда CH4RM, который запустил в 2017 году. Сегодня CH4RM обращает на себя внимание звездных модников, например, рэпера Томми Кэша, певиц Кати Кищук и Азалии Бэнкс, и продается в главном концепт-сторе Москвы КМ20. Однако Настя Сотник уверена, что и это можно назвать лишь первыми шагами к большому успеху.

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марка:

основатель:

анкета:

любимый фильм

любимый бренд

коллаборация мечты

икона стиля сейчас

любимый показ

Коллекция весна — лето 2021

Свою первую коллекцию Никита выпустил в 2017 году, тогда и марка его называлась CH-4 (по первой букве фамилии, которую сам Никита предпочитает записывать с четверкой вместо Ч). Хотя сам дизайнер вспоминает, что тот опыт скорее как эксперимент, на самом деле перед нами неизбежное развитие событий. Шить Никита учился с детства — у мамы, владелицы ателье в их родной Туле. Уже в 7 лет он создал свое первое платье — для сестры, и с тех пор не останавливался. Так что, едва поступив в Британскую высшую школу дизайна, Никита обнаружил, что ничему новому и нужному его не научат, и вернулся в Тулу — совершенствовать мастерство. Стиль старого MTV, образы Кристины Агилеры и Пэрис Хилтон на грани настоящей роскоши и пошлости сформировали палитру подрастающего дизайнера и в итоге эстетику CH-4 как бренда, пропитанного ностальгией. Она отчетливо видна в деконструированных спортивных костюмах, куртках и футболках, заканчивающихся всегда выше пупка, в смелых вставках и аппликациях кислотных цветов. Яркость и необычный крой вещей оценило поколение уже нового MTV — вещи CH-4 для своего московского концерта в августе 2018-го, например, выбрала певица Princess Nokia. По признанию Никиты, тогда это произвело на него сильное впечатление и только укрепило желание развивать свой бренд одежды.

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Он продолжил экспериментировать с кроем и дизайном — и в 2018-м родился узнаваемый принт бренда, «фирменная градиентная раскраска, расставляющая на теле акценты и подчеркивающая его изгибы». По словам Никиты, на него его вдохновила родная Тула, а точнее, люди, которых он видел на улицах города. «У нас тут есть такой популярный стилек — многие люди носят вещи, грубо говоря, не по размеру, которые обтягивают все тело. Например, очень узкие платья, которые акцентируют внимание на формах. И вот, увидев как-то вновь такой выход на улице, я подумал, что это можно перенести на ткани, подчеркнуть искусственной иллюзией принта пропорции и таким образом даже визуально модифицировать тело с помощью вещей», — рассказывает он. Перенести эффект на ткани оказалось не так просто: несмотря на множество примерок, которые Никита проводит на парнях и девушках самых разных размеров, рисунок все еще не садится «как надо» на любое теле. Но Никита работает над этим, мечтая дойти до идеала, чтобы каждый, кто носит его вещи, не стеснялся своего тела, независимо от размера, который носит.

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border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 100px;"></div> <div style=" background-color: #F4F4F4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 60px;"></div></div></div><div style="padding: 19% 0;"></div> <div style="display:block; height:50px; margin:0 auto 12px; width:50px;"><svg width="50px" height="50px" viewBox="0 0 60 60" version="1.1" xmlns="https://www.w3.org/2000/svg" xmlns:xlink="https://www.w3.org/1999/xlink"><g stroke="none" stroke-width="1" fill="none" fill-rule="evenodd"><g transform="translate(-511.000000, -20.000000)" fill="#000000"><g><path d="M556.869,30.41 C554.814,30.41 553.148,32.076 553.148,34.131 C553.148,36.186 554.814,37.852 556.869,37.852 C558.924,37.852 560.59,36.186 560.59,34.131 C560.59,32.076 558.924,30.41 556.869,30.41 M541,60.657 C535.114,60.657 530.342,55.887 530.342,50 C530.342,44.114 535.114,39.342 541,39.342 C546.887,39.342 551.658,44.114 551.658,50 C551.658,55.887 546.887,60.657 541,60.657 M541,33.886 C532.1,33.886 524.886,41.1 524.886,50 C524.886,58.899 532.1,66.113 541,66.113 C549.9,66.113 557.115,58.899 557.115,50 C557.115,41.1 549.9,33.886 541,33.886 M565.378,62.101 C565.244,65.022 564.756,66.606 564.346,67.663 C563.803,69.06 563.154,70.057 562.106,71.106 C561.058,72.155 560.06,72.803 558.662,73.347 C557.607,73.757 556.021,74.244 553.102,74.378 C549.944,74.521 548.997,74.552 541,74.552 C533.003,74.552 532.056,74.521 528.898,74.378 C525.979,74.244 524.393,73.757 523.338,73.347 C521.94,72.803 520.942,72.155 519.894,71.106 C518.846,70.057 518.197,69.06 517.654,67.663 C517.244,66.606 516.755,65.022 516.623,62.101 C516.479,58.943 516.448,57.996 516.448,50 C516.448,42.003 516.479,41.056 516.623,37.899 C516.755,34.978 517.244,33.391 517.654,32.338 C518.197,30.938 518.846,29.942 519.894,28.894 C520.942,27.846 521.94,27.196 523.338,26.654 C524.393,26.244 525.979,25.756 528.898,25.623 C532.057,25.479 533.004,25.448 541,25.448 C548.997,25.448 549.943,25.479 553.102,25.623 C556.021,25.756 557.607,26.244 558.662,26.654 C560.06,27.196 561.058,27.846 562.106,28.894 C563.154,29.942 563.803,30.938 564.346,32.338 C564.756,33.391 565.244,34.978 565.378,37.899 C565.522,41.056 565.552,42.003 565.552,50 C565.552,57.996 565.522,58.943 565.378,62.101 M570.82,37.631 C570.674,34.438 570.167,32.258 569.425,30.349 C568.659,28.377 567.633,26.702 565.965,25.035 C564.297,23.368 562.623,22.342 560.652,21.575 C558.743,20.834 556.562,20.326 553.369,20.18 C550.169,20.033 549.148,20 541,20 C532.853,20 531.831,20.033 528.631,20.18 C525.438,20.326 523.257,20.834 521.349,21.575 C519.376,22.342 517.703,23.368 516.035,25.035 C514.368,26.702 513.342,28.377 512.574,30.349 C511.834,32.258 511.326,34.438 511.181,37.631 C511.035,40.831 511,41.851 511,50 C511,58.147 511.035,59.17 511.181,62.369 C511.326,65.562 511.834,67.743 512.574,69.651 C513.342,71.625 514.368,73.296 516.035,74.965 C517.703,76.634 519.376,77.658 521.349,78.425 C523.257,79.167 525.438,79.673 528.631,79.82 C531.831,79.965 532.853,80.001 541,80.001 C549.148,80.001 550.169,79.965 553.369,79.82 C556.562,79.673 558.743,79.167 560.652,78.425 C562.623,77.658 564.297,76.634 565.965,74.965 C567.633,73.296 568.659,71.625 569.425,69.651 C570.167,67.743 570.674,65.562 570.82,62.369 C570.966,59.17 571,58.147 571,50 C571,41.851 570.966,40.831 570.82,37.631"></path></g></g></g></svg></div><div style="padding-top: 8px;"> <div style=" color:#3897f0; 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Коллекция осень — зима 2020

Все эти мучения сполна окупаются — вещи именно с этим принтом стали настоящими it-предметами марки. Даже линия пляжной одежды CH4RM Swimwear, запущенная в октябре 2020 года, когда вещи для летнего отдыха уже были, мягко говоря, не актуальны. Кстати, с этим запуском CH-4 и превратились в CH4RM — Никита добавил две буквы к названию бренда по совету соосновательницы агентства Dear Progress Саши Крымовой. «В этом названии заключается основной вайб, шарм, ведь по задумке оно произносится как CHARM. Очень хотим, чтобы наша одежда придавала шарма. Особенно если речь идет о купальниках, чтобы после загара на теле оставались полосочки «от шарма», — объясняет Чекрыгин. Задумка сработала вопреки крайне неудачному таймингу — предметы из коллекции с радостью раскупили жители городов «потеплее», например, много продаж пришлось на Лос-Анджелес. Особенно популярны эти позиции CH4RM стали в разгар зимнего отпускного сезона — еще бы, их так активно промоутировала в своем Instagram Ольга Карпуть. Однако, вместо того чтобы почивать на лаврах, Чекрыгин сверился с календарем и перенес фирменный принт на пуховики для зимней коллекции. Как убеждает дизайнер, сейчас для них самое время, ведь после многочисленных тестов он с уверенностью может сказать, что даже самые сильные морозы этим курткам нипочем. «В них несколько слоев синтепона, поэтому они довольно теплые. Я, например, в своем хожу всю зиму, ни разу не было холодно», — рассказывает он.

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Но амбиции Чекрыгина-дизайнера не ограничиваются вещами с узнаваемым принтом. Пример как собственной мамы, так и великих кутюрье стимулируют в нем желание усложнять дизайн вещей в каждой новой коллекции: «Я на самом деле полюбил моду из-за Александра Маккуина. То, что он делал в 90-х, 2000-х и его последний показ Plato’s Atlantis , — все это просто невероятно. Кутюр вообще меня очень вдохновляет — что-то сложное, экспериментальное в моде. Я думаю, наш путь как бренда — совмещать ручной кутюрный труд и вещи, которые можно носить каждый день». Отсюда — вещи с вышивкой из бисера ручной работы и предметы с усложненными драпировками в недавней коллекции бренда, весна—лето 2021 . Даже принт с «выцветшими пятнами» в ней усложнился — к нему добавились тени, будто отбрасываемые цветами лилий.

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С точки зрения развития бизнеса у Чекрыгина тоже большие планы. Спрос на его одежду только растет, поэтому он серьезно задумывается над масштабированием производства — сейчас его, по сути, и нет, поскольку все вещи создаются вручную по макетам Никиты его помощниками в мамином тульском ателье. Всерьез он задумывается и об открытии собственных офлайн-точек, причем не только в России, но и за рубежом, поскольку вещи CH4RM хорошо продаются в США, Канаде, Великобритании и странах ЕС. Где именно откроется первая самостоятельная офлайн-точка CH4RM, Никита пока не говорит, но точно знает, что это будет не просто магазин, а пространство, внутри которого он придумает собственный мир и обеспечит каждому покупателю уникальный shopping experience. А чего-то уникального нам всегда не хватает.

Лучшие материалы The Blueprint
в нашем канале на Яндекс.Дзен

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