T
Итоги года: главные события в мире моды
Текст: Варя Баркалова
Громкие перестановки, имиджевые провалы, закат коллабораций и другие модные события 2018-го
I.
Смены дизайнеров
В 2018 году кадровые перестановки в крупных брендах происходили не реже, чем в предыдущем. Для одних новый дизайнер стал глотком свежего воздуха, другие же начали стремительно терять поклонников. Кажется, эпоха прочной ассоциации конкретного имени с названием бренда окончательно уходит в прошлое, и не за горами время, когда модные дома вообще откажутся от долгих контрактов.
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II.
Кого не стало в 2018-м
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III.
Новые логотипы
В нынешнее время информацию, в том числе визуальную, предпочтительнее оптимизировать, и бренды меняют фирменный стиль в сторону упрощения и лаконичности. Это началось уже давно (подробнее про то, почему бренды меняют логотипы, читайте тут), и в 2018-м мы видим продолжение: Эди Слиман переделывает Celine под себя, Александр Вэнг перезапускает именную марку с внесезонной концепцией и новым лого, а Оливье Рустен «омолаживает» люксовый Balmain — и не только футуристичными коллекциями.
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IV.
Изменения в модных медиа
Печатным журналам все предрекают смерть, но они не умирают. Тем не менее Condé Nast идет по пути централизации и закрывает журналов больше, чем открывает. Это чувствуют и бренды: Calvin Klein решили не публиковать печатную рекламу. В российских медиа в этом году происходит примерно то же — об этом мы рассказываем отдельно.
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V.
Sustainability
Устойчивое развитие — чуть ли не основной лейтмотив модной индустрии в этом году. Бренды запускают все больше экологичных инициатив, отказываются от использования натурального меха и стараются стать более прозрачными для покупателей. Ведь аудиторию действительно волнует стремительно усугубляющиеся экологические проблемы: словарь Collins выбрал словом года «одноразовый» — его стали использовать в четыре раза чаще. The Blueprint посвятил экологии и моде спецвыпуск.
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VI.
Скандалы
Никто не застрахован от ошибок. Но в эпоху расцвета соцсетей провалы становится труднее замалчивать, а пользователи и их реакция превращаются в мощную силу воздействия, с которой приходится считаться и крупным брендам.
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дизайнер считает обвинения необоснованными, adidas начали расследование инцидента. На момент публикации продолжения истории не последовало
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VII.
Новые медиа: YouTube и подкасты
Чтобы коммуницировать со своей аудиторией, брендам недостаточно съемок и рекламы в журналах, и они ищут новые каналы взаимодействия. Тенденцию отлично уловил новый глава направления моды и красоты в YouTube Дерек Бласберг, поэтому в дальнейшем нас, скорее всего, ждет еще больше фэшн-контента на видеоплатформе.
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VIII.
Бренды становятся независимыми и наоборот
Можно долго рассуждать, что для бренда лучше — работать под крылом крупной корпорации или иметь полную свободу (и, возможно, финансовые трудности), эту дилемму каждый решает для себя в меру возможностей. Что получится у тех, кто сменил статус в этом году, пока судить рано: подобные сделки не завершаются за несколько месяцев.
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IX.
Коллаборации
…всех бесят! И это, по-видимому, финал одного из главных модных поветрий последних лет. Коллаборации выходят каждый день целыми гроздьями, и вычленить из этого потока что-то стоящее уже невозможно. Единственное, что еще работает, — взаимная любовь брендов: так получилось у Burberry и Vivienne Westwood.
