Итоги года: 2017-й в моде. Каким мы его запомним?

МОДА • ИНДУСТРИЯ

2017-й в моде: каким мы его запомним

Текст:
Соня Гома, Варя Баркалова

Расцвет diversity, скандалы с сексуальными домогательствами, проблемы модных медиа, а также плагиат и коллаборации.

Смены дизайнеров

В 2017 году рокировки дизайнеров стали происходить еще чаще, чем раньше, — в Helmut Lang ежесезонная смена дизайнера вообще стала частью концепции. Эмоций перестановки вызывают все меньше. Разве что обидно бывает, когда перемены очевидно к худшему, как это произошло с Lanvin.

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Новый креативный директор в Guy Laroche

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Кристофер Бейли ушел из Burberry

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Бушра Жаррар ушла из Lanvin после 16 месяцев работы,

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а новым креативным директором стал Оливье Лапидус

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Новым креативным директором Roberto Cavalli стал Пол Сарридж

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Люк и Люси Мейер стали креативными директорами Jil Sander

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Клэр Уэйт Келлер ушла из Chloé

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и стала креативным директором Givenchy,

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Знакомьтесь:

Клэр Уэйт Келлер

после того как оттуда ушел Рикардо Тиши.

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Ее место в Chloé заняла Наташа Рамсей-Леви

Helmut Lang перезапустился, креативного директора заменили на редактора-резидента, который приглашает каждый сезон нового дизайнера для работы над коллекцией. Первым редактором стала Изабелла Берли из Dazed & Confused, которая пригласила Оливера Шейна, а вот дебютная коллекция.

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Серж Руфье стал креативным директором Carven

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II.

Кого не стало в 2017-м

Аззедин Алайя

(26 февраля 1940 — 18 ноября 2017)

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Эрве Леру

(30 мая 1957 — 6 октября 2017)

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Пьер Берже

(14 ноября 1930 — 8 сентября 2017)

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Карла Фенди

(12 июля 1937 — 20 июня 2017)

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III.

Три громкие коллаборации 2017-го

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Gosha Rubchinskiy x Burberry

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Off-White x IKEA

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Louis Vuitton x Supreme

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IV.

Изменения в модных медиа

Индустрия модных СМИ продолжает переживать непростые времена. Печатные издания закрываются, оставляя только диджитал-версии, или меняют целые команды — как это произошло в Vogue UK, причем не без скандала. В диджитал тоже непросто. Сайты все жестче конкурируют с социальными сетями, а Style.com, амбициозный проект Condé Nast, который должен был объединить редакционные материалы и шопинг, потерпел провал: вместо него теперь Farfetch.

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Закрылся российский печатный Women’s Health

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Закрылся печатный Teen Vogue

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Александра Шульман покинула пост главреда Vogue UK после более чем 25 лет работы

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Ее место занял Эдвард Эннинфул

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Condé Nast закрыли несколько итальянских изданий: мужской журнал L’Uomo Vogue, журнал о детской моде Vogue Bambini, свадебный Vogue Sposa и журнал о часах и ювелирных украшениях Vogue Gioiello

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Закрылся Style.com

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и рассказала всю правду об увольнении и работе в Condé Nast независимому журналу Vestoj

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Люсинда Чемберс покинула Vogue UK

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Расцвет Telegram-каналов о моде

Good morning, Karl! • автор — Катя Федорова, бывший редактор The Blueprint, Interview и Vogue.

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it''s so last season • автор – Дарья Косарева, бывший редактор моды «Афиши», Glamour и Vogue

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«Кинокостюм для чайников» • автор – Анна Баштовая, художник по костюмам

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marxism-fashionism • автор – Ксения Обуховская, редактор моды Buro 24/7

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shoes&drinks • автор – Лиза Буйнова, дизайнер обуви и аксессуаров в Ann Demeulemeester

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VI.

Экология и этичное производство становятся все важнее

Yoox Net-a-Porter Group отказываются от продажи изделий из натурального меха

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LVMH увеличат инвестиции в экологические проекты

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Gucci отказываются от использования натурального меха

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КАК МЕХ ПЕРЕСТАЛ БЫТЬ АБСОЛЮТНЫМ ЗЛОМ

VII.

ПЕРЕСТАНОВКИ В КАЛЕНДАРЕ НЕДЕЛЬ МОДЫ

Кто, где, какой сезон, мужской или женский показ? Все запутывается еще больше. Одни, как Versace, покидают кутюрную неделю, другие, как Schiaparelli, наоборот, возвращаются к кутюру. Бренды переносят показы из Лондона в Нью-Йорк (Tom Ford), из Нью-Йорка в Лондон (Tommy Hilfiger), все больше марок совмещают мужской и женский показы, на кутюрной неделе представляют прет-а-порте, а текущий сезон перед нами или следующий, уже не всегда помнят даже профессионалы.

VIII.

Награды 2017-го

Дизайнер Йоджи Ямамото получил награду за вклад в развитие моды

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Дизайнер Дрис ван Нотен стал бароном

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ДОКУМЕНТАЛЬНЫЙ ФИЛЬМ «дрис»

Основатель Business of Fashion Имран Амед стал кавалером ордена Британской империи

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Главред Vogue US Анна Винтур стала дамой-командором ордена Британской империи

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IX.

Жизель Бюндхен впервые за 15 лет лишилась статуса самой высокооплачиваемой в мире модели.

$22 млн

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Кендалл Дженнер

$17,5 млн

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Жизель Бюндхен

$13,5 млн

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Крисси Тейген

$10,5 млн

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Адриана Лима

$9,5 млн

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Джиджи Хадид

Торжество diversity

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Вышел календарь Pirelli с моделями африканского происхождения

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Condé Nast запустили LGBTQ-проект

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LVMH и Kering перестали сотрудничать со «слишком худыми» моделями

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Модель-трансгендер впервые появилась на обложке Vogue Paris

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Модель и ее сын с синдромом Дауна появились на обложке Vogue Netherlands

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Bezgraniz Couture продолжили показы коллекций для людей с ограниченными возможностями

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XI.

Открытия и закрытия магазинов

«КМ 20» открывается на новом месте

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Farfetch обещают открыть Store of the Future

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Podium Market закрывают все магазины, попутно задолжав поставщикам

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Colette закрывается

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XII.

Все учатся или учат

Condé Nast Italia открыли школу инфлюенсеров

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Основатель Off-White Вирджил Абло читает лекцию в Гарварде

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экс-редактора Vogue UK Люсинды Чемберс

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Появились курсы дизайнера Марка Джейкобса,

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{"points":[{"id":61,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":63,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":0,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":62,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

В Москве собственные школы модной журналистики открывают экс-редактор Vogue Ольга Михайловская и журнал Numéro

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XIII.

Обвинения в плагиате

Без обвинений в копировании не проходит и дня — во многом шумихе способствует быстрое распространение информации через инстаграм. Обвиняют дизайнеров — от Рафа Симонса до Вики Газинской, бренды обвиняют друг друга, гиганту Zara достается от нишевых марок и иллюстраторов. Процветает остроумный инстаграм Diet Prada, специализирующийся на сюжетах про плагиат, — Gucci даже отдают анонимному создателю аккаунта свой инстаграм на время показа коллекции весна–лето 2018 в сентябре, и Diet Prada сразу рассказывает об источниках вдохновения креативного директора Алессандро Микеле.

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Рафа Симонса обвинили в плагиате

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Valentino подали в суд на Steve Madden

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Gucci обвинили в плагиате

Американский художник обвинил Vika Gazinskaya в плагиате

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Saint Laurent обвинили в плагиате

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Лидер по обвинению в плагиате Diet Prada обвинил Ким Кардашьян

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XIV.

Новые маркетинговые ходы: котики, мемы и папарацци

Givenchy разыгрывали билеты на свой показ в объявлениях о пропаже кошки

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Vetements сделали фотовыставку на парковке вместо показа

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Тим Бленкс о Vetements

Бренды продолжают менять логотипы

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Yeezy собрали лукбук из фотографий Ким Кардашьян, сделанных папарацци

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Gucci выпустили мемы в качестве рекламной кампании

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XV.

Скандалы с сексуальными домогательствами

5 октября 2017 года Харви Вайнштейна обвинили в сексуальных домогательствах. Все началось с актрисы Эшли Джадд, а затем о приставаниях со стороны продюсера рассказали еще несколько десятков женщин из модельного и шоу-бизнеса, в том числе Гвинет Пэлтроу, Леа Сейду и Кара Делевинь. После скандала продюсер потерял работу — его фактически изгнали из киноиндустрии. Этот пример вдохновил других жертв насилия поделиться своими историями — эффект Вайнштейна оказался сильнее, чем можно было предположить. Обвинениям подверглись почти тридцать человек: от Кевина Спейси и Бретта Рэтнера до Терри Ричардсона и Брюса Вебера.

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Фотографа Брюса Вебера обвинили в домогательствах

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Журнал Time объявил «Человеком года» женщин, которые решились заговорить о сексуальном насилии

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21 января прошел «Женский марш» против мизогинических взглядов Трампа. Журнал The New Yorker посвятил событию обложку

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Condé Nast объявили бойкот фотографу Терри Ричардсону,

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а потом к издательству присоединились марки Valentino и Bulgari,

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журнал The Wall Street Journal и издательский дом Hearst

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За 2017 год изменилось многое. Дизайнеры больше не могут безнаказанно использовать, скажем, традиционный африканский орнамент — их обвинят в культурной апроприации. Или заимствовать идеи у других, ведь за брендами пристально следят аккаунты вроде Diet Prada, а претензии даже малоизвестных авторов быстро оказываются в информационном поле всего мира. Терри Ричардсона и до 2017 года не раз обвиняли в домогательствах, но бойкотировать фотографа решились только сейчас — побочный эффект скандала с участием Вайнштейна. За действия Дональда Трампа до сих пор достается его дочери Иванке Трамп: универмаги отказываются сотрудничать с ее маркой. На ход дел индустрии моды влияет все больше вещей, которые, казалось бы, не имеют к ней прямого отношения, а тайное становится явным быстрее, чем когда-либо еще. Многое меняется к лучшему, многое уходит навсегда — и одно понятно точно: индустрия уже никогда не будет прежней.

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