T

Итоги года: главные события в мире моды

Текст: Варя Баркалова


Громкие перестановки, имиджевые провалы, закат коллабораций и другие модные события 2018-го

I.

Смены дизайнеров



В 2018 году кадровые перестановки в крупных брендах происходили не реже, чем в предыдущем. Для одних новый дизайнер стал глотком свежего воздуха, другие же начали стремительно терять поклонников. Кажется, эпоха прочной ассоциации конкретного имени с названием бренда окончательно уходит в прошлое, и не за горами время, когда модные дома вообще откажутся от долгих контрактов.





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Рикардо Тиши возглавил Burberry

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Серж Руфье ушел из Carven

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Креативным директором Céline стал Эди Слиман,

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сменив Фиби Файло

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Lanvin остались без креативного директора и женской

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и мужской линий

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Крис ван Аш ушел из Dior Homme 

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и пришел в Berluti,

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из которого ушел Хайдер Акерманн

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Из Delpozo ушел Джозеф Фонт,

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а пришел Лутц Уэлле

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Ким Джонс ушел из Louis Vuitton Homme

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и пришел в Dior Homme

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А в Louis Vuitton Homme пришел Вирджил Абло


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II.

Кого не стало в 2018-м




Юбер де Живанши

(21 февраля 1927 – 10 марта 2018)

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Cооснователи Benetton Джилберто Бенеттон
(19 июня 1941 – 22 октября 2018)

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и Карло Бенеттон
(26 декабря 1943 – 10 июля 2018)

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Стилист и редактор Анна Харви
(12 сентября 1944 – 9 октября 2018)

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Дизайнер
Кейт Спейд
(24 декабря 1962 – 5 июня 2018)

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III.

Новые логотипы






В нынешнее время информацию, в том числе визуальную, предпочтительнее оптимизировать, и бренды меняют фирменный стиль в сторону упрощения и лаконичности. Это началось уже давно (подробнее про то, почему бренды меняют логотипы, читайте тут), и в 2018-м мы видим продолжение: Эди Слиман переделывает Celine под себя, Александр Вэнг перезапускает именную марку с внесезонной концепцией и новым лого, а Оливье Рустен «омолаживает» люксовый Balmain — и не только футуристичными коллекциями.






Céline

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Alexander Wang

{"points":[{"id":31,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":33,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":32,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

Balmain

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Jil Sander

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IV.

Изменения в модных медиа







Печатным журналам все предрекают смерть, но они не умирают. Тем не менее Condé Nast идет по пути централизации и закрывает журналов больше, чем открывает. Это чувствуют и бренды: Calvin Klein решили не публиковать печатную рекламу. В российских медиа в этом году происходит примерно то же — об этом мы рассказываем отдельно.






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Закрылся американский Glamour

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Закрылся онлайн-журнал Rookie 

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Закрылся австралийский Cosmopolitan

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Interview сначала закрылся,

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но потом перезапустился

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{"points":[{"id":40,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":42,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":0,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":41,"properties":{"duration":0.5,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

Перезапустился греческий Vogue

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Открылся Vogue Чехии и Словакии

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Открылся Vogue в Польше

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V.

Sustainability






Устойчивое развитие — чуть ли не основной лейтмотив модной индустрии в этом году. Бренды запускают все больше экологичных инициатив, отказываются от использования натурального меха и стараются стать более прозрачными для покупателей. Ведь аудиторию действительно волнует стремительно усугубляющиеся экологические проблемы: словарь Collins выбрал словом года «одноразовый» — его стали использовать в четыре раза чаще. The Blueprint посвятил экологии и моде спецвыпуск.







Отказались от меха:

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Maison
Margiela 

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Burberry

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Furla

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Versace

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 Jean Paul Gaultier

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Diane von Furstenberg

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Coach

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Продажу меха запретят на территориях
Сан-Франциско 

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и Лос-Анджелеса 

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Kering будут отслеживать происхождение хлопка в коллекциях своих брендов

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Chanel отказались от экзотической кожи

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Gucci отказались от ангорской шерсти

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и запустили специальный сайт об устойчивом развитии бренда 

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Стелла Маккартни возглавила инициативу ООН об устойчивом развитии моды

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VI.

Скандалы






Никто не застрахован от ошибок. Но в эпоху расцвета соцсетей провалы становится труднее замалчивать, а пользователи и их реакция превращаются в мощную силу воздействия, с которой приходится считаться и крупным брендам. 








и несмотря на извинения компании, разгромили магазины бренда в ЮАР

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H&M обвинили в расизме

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Глава отдела маркетинга Victoria’s Secret оскорбительно ответил на критику шоу

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и гендиректору компании пришлось уйти в отставку

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Кампания Dolce & Gabbana возмутила Китай, и все зашло очень далеко 

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Главреда Vogue Ukraine Ольгу Сушко поймали на плагиате письма редактора

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после чего она покинула свой пост

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Гошу Рубчинского обвинили в неподобающем поведении в адрес несовершеннолетнего,

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дизайнер считает обвинения необоснованными, adidas начали расследование инцидента. На момент публикации продолжения истории не последовало

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{"points":[{"id":43,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":45,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":0,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":44,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

VII.

Новые медиа: YouTube и подкасты








Чтобы коммуницировать со своей аудиторией, брендам недостаточно съемок и рекламы в журналах, и они ищут новые каналы взаимодействия. Тенденцию отлично уловил новый глава направления моды и красоты в YouTube Дерек Бласберг, поэтому в дальнейшем нас, скорее всего, ждет еще больше фэшн-контента на видеоплатформе.









Chloé запустили серию подкастов

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Chanel перевели свои подкасты на русский язык

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{"points":[{"id":43,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":45,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":0,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":44,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

Свой канал на YouTube запустили Наоми Кэмпбелл

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{"points":[{"id":40,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":42,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":0,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":41,"properties":{"duration":0.5,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}
{"points":[{"id":40,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":42,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":0,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":41,"properties":{"duration":0.5,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

и Виктория Бекхэм

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Журнал Love выпускает на YouTube первый номер, сделанный полностью в видеоформате

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Джон Гальяно запустил подкасты для Maison Margiela

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VIII.

Бренды становятся независимыми и наоборот









Можно долго рассуждать, что для бренда лучше — работать под крылом крупной корпорации или иметь полную свободу (и, возможно, финансовые трудности), эту дилемму каждый решает для себя в меру возможностей. Что получится у тех, кто сменил статус в этом году, пока судить рано: подобные сделки не завершаются за несколько месяцев.



Стелла Маккартни выкупила свой бренд у Kering

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Proenza Schouler тоже стали независимыми – спасибо анонимным инвесторам!

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А вот Дрис ван Нотен, наоборот, продал именную марку компании Puig 

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Гоша Рубчинский и вовсе решил закрыть свой бренд и сосредоточиться на других проектах

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IX.

Коллаборации








…всех бесят! И это, по-видимому, финал одного из главных модных поветрий последних лет. Коллаборации выходят каждый день целыми гроздьями, и вычленить из этого потока что-то стоящее уже невозможно. Единственное, что еще работает, — взаимная любовь брендов: так получилось у Burberry и Vivienne Westwood.




Лучшие материалы The Blueprint
в нашем канале на Яндекс.Дзен

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