T
«Я креативный и продуктивный человек в профессиональной и семейной жизни»
ФОТО:
LAUNCHMETRICS SPOTLIGHT,
АРХИВЫ ПРЕСС-СЛУЖБ
Закончилась последняя из мировых и самая насыщенная за последние годы неделя моды — Парижская. Отдел моды The Blueprint еще не в полной мере осознал, что это было, но уже постарался подвести итоги в этих 37 образах.
Hodakova и сломанные зонты
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В этом сезоне победительница LVMH Prize 2024 Эллен Ходакова впервые показала собственную обувь — из переработанной кожи. Впрочем, куда больше этой пары — массивный мыс, будто позаимствованный у мужских деловых туфель, и высокий каблук — привлекала внимание одежда: по традиции собранная из всего, что попалось Эллен под руку. В случае этого колючего образа речь о зонтах, точнее, их остатках в виде металлических каркасов.
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Saint Laurent и шальные императрицы
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Показ у подножия Эйфелевой башни закрыла серия ярких платьев с буйными оборками и рюшами. Модные критики сравнили их с цветами, развевающимися на ночном ветру, но Энтони Ваккарелло предпочел романтике утилитарность: рассказал, что материал платьев предусматривает, что их можно просто взять и скомкать. Все-таки не зря коллекция названа Louche aristocrat, буквально, если хотите, «Шальная императрица».
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В этом году бренд Zomer, который основали стилист и fashion-директор журнала Dazed Имру Аша и дизайнер Даниэль Айтуганов, вошел в список финалистов премии Andam и LVMH Prize. В статусе уже признанного дуэт решил показать более взрослую, по их словам, коллекцию. В итоге мы увидели увеличенные в сотни раз ремни (на платьях), заколки-крабики цвета Барби (в виде топов) и обручальные кольца (накинутые как спасательные круги)... Что ж, по крайней мере, виральность коллекции точно обеспечена недетская.
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Louis Vuitton в королевских покоях
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Николя Жескьер развернул показ в летних апартаментах Анны Австрийской, жены Людовика XIII и матери Людовика XIV; эту часть Лувра недавно отреставрировали. Уже зная, где проведет шоу, дизайнер придумывал коллекцию с оглядкой на роскошный домашний гардероб. Так появился и этот, нежно-розовый, богато декорированный камнями жилет с поясом. Пушистый, он напоминает халат, хотя выполнен — обманка — не из плюша или меха, а из шелка с начесом.
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Lanvin и возвращение к корням
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Вполне эффектный реверанс Питера Копинга в сторону фирменного силуэта Жанны Ланвен — robe de style: заниженная талия, пышная юбка, но только теперь в духе Марии Антуанетты. Как удачно, что обе любили нежно-голубой цвет.
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Оказалось, что преемник Дриса ван Нотена Джулиан Клаузнер — поклонник серфинга. Не заядлый, но по крайней мере, «общаться с серферами ему всегда приятно». Думая о них, Клаузнер увлекся волнообразными принтами, песочными оттенками и фактурами, напоминающими о пене морской: как, например, оборки этой рубашки.
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Еще один отпускник сезона — Николя Ди Феличе: на новую коллекцию «Ослепленные солнцем» его во многом подбило путешествие в Таиланд. Там он высмотрел подобные вуали для лица — они, мол, не имеют никакого религиозного подтекста, а лишь защищают от ультрафиолетового излучения. В интерпретации дизайнера их следует накидывать на бейсболку, а затем заправлять в мини А-силуэта, — на заметку всем, кого периодически настигает bad hair day.
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Stella McCartney и красноречивый лозунг
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Come together — двусмысленно призвала Стелла Маккартни в газете Stella Times, которую уже по традиции получили гости показа. Так британка (это важно — модные критики c Альбиона признали ее юмор весьма английским) пожелала миру тотальной гармонии: между людьми и природой, мужчинами и женщинами, бунтарями и романтиками. За поддержку романтического настроения отвечали в том числе розовые перья райских птиц, которые на самом деле, конечно, перьями не были: это их растительная альтернатива (буквально — окрашенная перьевидная трава), созданная экостартапом Fevvers.
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Дебют Джонатана Андерсона как креативного директора женского направления дома мы по косточкам разбирали в этом материале. А здесь предлагаем посмотреть на его самую веселую (и вместе с тем неоднозначную) часть — платья с панье. Для тех, кто время на еще один текст тратить не намерен, скажем так: дебют на «пять», но есть нюанс.
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Gabriela Hearst и гадание на таро
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И Габриела Херст туда же! Посвятила свою коллекцию модным нынче картам таро. Например, открывшая показ Лора Дерн в платье из 2400 кожаных цветов символизировала карту «Императрица». Самой Херст, правда, перед показом выпало нечто, сулящее неудачу. И тогда дизайнер придумала мантру-противоядие: «Я креативный и продуктивный человек в профессиональной и семейной жизни». Судя по образам, которые мы в итоге увидели на подиуме, аффирмация вполне рабочая, пользуйтесь.
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Acne Studios в эфире «Мужское и женское»
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Рады были вспомнить, что у Джонни Йоханссона отлично получаются не только все на свете манипуляции с джинсами, но и конвенционально красивые вещи. Например, это корсетное платье, выложенное из мозаики тончайших кружевных лоскутов. Внимание на бедра — платье образует нечто вроде панциря, рыцарской брони. Прочтение извечной темы «мужское и женское», которое нам нравится.
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Tom Ford и полуночный заплыв
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На втором шоу Tom Ford Хайдера Акерманна модели томно бродили по подиуму, встречаясь зазывающими взглядами со зрителями, — так, будто они вышли на ночную охоту где-нибудь в баре. Сам Акерманн, впрочем, настаивает, что темой коллекции стал полуночный заплыв в прямом смысле — «самая опасная и сексуальная вещь на свете». Собственно поэтому пальто из лакированной кожи с крошечными разрезами блестели так, словно в них только что окунулись в океан.
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Оливье Рустен собрал гостей в бальном зале отеля InterContinental — именно здесь он провел свой первый показ Balmain 14 лет назад. Модные критики ностальгировали и констатировали: за это время дизайнер стал крепче, а его одежда — напротив, мягче, о чем свидетельствовало большое количество драпировок и мешковатых форм. Всеобщим фаворитом, впрочем, стало платье из ракушек — в пляжной тематике Рустен (вспомните его песочное платье для Тайлы) хорош всегда.
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Вот и Жюльен Дассен признался в любви к морю — дизайнер вырос на побережье Бретани и «получил сертификат дайвера, и все такое». Яркие маски для подводного плавания и массивные резиновые вьетнамки, лифы русалок и юбки с пайетками, имитирующими чешую, — когда там уже снова лето?
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В этом образе — весь подход нового креативного директора Мигеля Кастро Фрейтаса. Довольно безликие костюмные вещи, с одной стороны, и вспышки былой роскоши (в виде вещей самого Мюглера) — с другой. Почему головной убор из перьев, прямо цитирующий экземпляр Тьерри, не спас дебютную коллекцию, мы рассуждали здесь.
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«Спите спокойно», как бы сказал нам этим образом Марк Томас, сменивший на посту креативного директора Carven всеобщую любимицу Луиз Троттер. Слушаем, повинуемся и оцениваем дебютную коллекцию дизайнера на уверенное «хорошо» в этом материале.
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Rick Owens и полный аншлаг
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На молодую аудиторию шоу Рика Оуэнса производит эффект, аналогичный реакции фанатов корейских айдолов, когда те появляются на показах: полное безумие! Чтобы увидеть это дефиле (оно прошло у Дворца Токио в Париже), подростки взбирались на автобусную остановку, буквально карабкаясь друг по другу. Уверены, холодок по спине от коллекций Оуэнса пробирает даже в таком положении. Чего только стоят эти инопланетные накидки с шипами, ну или бахромой из веганской кожи, которые Рик Оуэнс разработал вместе с молодым лондонским дизайнером Straytukay.
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Schiaparelli, или Кутюр на каждый день
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Золотистая бахрома? Мех? Тысячи маленьких кисточек! Так Дэниел Роузберри продолжает убеждать нас, что в коллекциях ready-to-wear есть и должно быть место кутюрным «приколам». Не поддержать невозможно.
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Loewe и торжество ремесла
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Пожалуй, самый сложный образ из представленных в коллекции Loewe весна-лето 2026: ведь материал, из которого сделано это платье поло, — на самом деле полотно, спресованное из сотни кожаных полосок. Какими еще техниками блеснули новоиспеченные креативные директора бренда Джек Маккалоу и Лазаро Эрнандес — изучила Алена Важенина.
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Giambattista Valli и «спокойствие, только спокойствие»
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По словам Джамбаттисты Валли, успокоение в этом тревожном мире он находит в картинах голландских мастеров — вроде Яна Брейгеля Старшего и Амброзиуса Босхарта. И нам, судя по всему, советует: раз в новой коллекции представил топы и платья, на которые перенес с холстов тех самых художников землянику, тюльпаны и персики.
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Vetements — только (в)перед
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А вот Гурам Гвасалия от ужасов внешнего мира не спасается — он на них «реагирует». Правда, вещами, у которых полноценная — только лицевая часть. Например, у финального бального платья юбка была лишь спереди, а сзади — только колготки. Так дизайнер намекает то ли на экономический кризис, то ли на кризис идей, то ли на то, что при встрече с реальностью спасаться бегством не намерен.
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Nina Ricci на гламурном рейве
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Харрис Рид и второй сезон подряд консультирующая его Карин Ройтфельд в коллекции Nina Ricci весна-лето 2026 смешали гламур, рок и парижский шик. Получившийся микс жаккарда, атласа и тафты, правда, напомнил Dries Van Noten, а точнее его версию для рейва — с такими-то питоновыми сапогами!
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Givenchy как ответственные за чистоту
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Вторую коллекцию для Givenchy Сара Бертон намеренно сделала логичным продолжением первой — чтобы основные коды Юбера де Живанши наверняка отскакивали от наших зубов. Прежде всего — чистота кроя и силуэта. Ну при виде этого кипенно-белого платья (хотя кажется, что модель просто завернулась в отрез ткани) кроме слова «чистота» на ум ничего и не приходит.
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«Создать одежду, которая плачет» — так Питер Мюлье описал свою цель на сезон весна-лето 2026. И попытался добиться ее: водопады слез в интерпретации дизайнера — экстрадлинная бахрома на сапогах.
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Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood в будуаре императрицы
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Не уверены, что Андреас Кронталер когда-либо слышал «Императрицу» Ирины Аллегровой (или подсматривал за серфингистом Джулианом Клаузнером), но, как утверждает сам дизайнер, при создании коллекции он вдохновлялся будуарным и пляжным стилями. «Это то, что вы хотите надеть, чтобы просто повеселиться, когда в мире происходят большие перемены», — объяснил Кронталер, а мы положили глаз на розовую куртку с морскими звездами из пайеток и стекляруса.
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Maison Margiela для жизни
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«Мне нравятся причудливые вещи, которые невозможно носить. Но для них у нас есть линия Artisanal», — обозначил Гленн Мартенс после своего первого Ready-to-Wear шоу для Maison Margiela. Дизайнер постарался сделать вещи, «в которых хочется жить», — но в этом топе, собранном будто из запаянной в пластик винтажной бижутерии, можно и умереть (красиво).
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Ann Demeulemeester в жанре трагедии
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Говорят, на столе Стефано Галичи во время работы были книги «Гордость и предубеждение» Джейн Остин и «Аллея чудес» Дэнни Шугермана (о сложной карьере автора в американском шоу-бизнесе). Благодаря им в коллекции смешались романтика, гламур и, конечно, трагедия — за первый ингредиент отвечает среди прочего куртка, на которой лазером вырезан узор с винтажного ажурного полотенца.
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Balenciaga, или Страху в глаза
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«Было страшно и за дизайнера, и за себя» — так лапидарно Марина Прохорова характеризовала ожидание дебюта Пьерпаоло Пиччоли в Balenciaga. Развеял ли дизайнер наши страхи за будущее бренда — например, скульптурными топами, оперными перчатками и очками-масками, — выясняйте в материале.
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Алессандро Микеле поумерил свой максимализм — ведь в коллекции Valentino весна-лето 2026 непривычно мало декора. Работая над ней, Микеле наткнулся на письмо Пьера Паоло Пазолини времен Второй мировой: в нем кинорежиссер и поэт описывал радость от наблюдения за простыми светлячками. Вот и нам, намекает дизайнер, пора научиться радоваться простой (и красивой) одежде: вроде этого драпированного платья, украшенного лишь одним бантом.
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Как и Сара Бертон, Майкл Райдер просто продолжил начатое — его вторая коллекция мало отличается от первой. Милее всего в ней показалось то, каким повседневным дизайнер сделал «маленькое черное платье» — сочетая его с вместительной сумкой и удобными мюлями.
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Jean Paul Gaultier, но зажмурив глаза
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Дебют Дюрана Лантинка в этом сезоне стал, пожалуй, самым эпатажным. В основном за счет таких кэтсьютов с изображением голых покрытых волосами тел. Пока одни жмурились, а другие ликовали, Нелли Асриян пыталась понять — а что это было?
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Удивила, впрочем, и Чемена Камали — отказом от бохо в новой коллекции Chloé. Вместо летящих блуз с оборками и рюшами — приталенные и драпированные платья с цветочными принтами. Так, по мнению дизайнера, мог бы выглядеть кутюр Chloé. Спойлер ли это?
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Созданные Александром Маккуином брюки с экстранизкой талией стали для Шона Макгира чуть ли не путеводной звездой — все брюки и юбки его новой коллекции именно на низкой посадке. Впрочем, цветочная юбка с нашитыми на нее шнурами (будто с доломана — он же гусарский мундир) еще и экстракороткая.
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Надоели платки на талиях? «Терпите», будто говорят нам Себастьян Мейер и Арно Вайлант, завязывая очередной узел. «Наша задача заключалась в том, чтобы превратить нашу страсть к технологичной одежде во что-то более человечное», — объяснили дизайнеры. Все потому, что платок сочетается с легинсами и майкой из новой линии бренда C+, в рамках которой бренд выпускает спортивную одежду на каждый день из ткани, «вымоченной» в пробиотиках.
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Но не будем лукавить, больше платков Coperni нам понравились фартуки Miu Miu — пестрые, в мелкий цветочек и с завязочками (прямо как у бабушки на кухне). Их Миучча Прада предлагает носить в том числе вместо платьев. «В моде мы всегда говорим о гламуре и богатых людях, но мы должны признать, что жизнь совсем другая, — пояснила она. — Для меня фартук олицетворяет исторически сложную жизнь женщин, от завода до дома».
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Thom Browne, или НЛО существуют
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Том Браун, как и всегда, показал кутюр — чего стоит платье, верх которого расшит стеклярусом так, что имитирует голый женский торс. Оно отвечало за «земную» часть коллекции — в то время как в остальной свои порядки наводили зеленые маски инопланетян, «пришедших с миром».
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Показ Сhanel, да и всю Парижскую неделю моды модель Авар Одианг закрыла самым трогательным из возможных способом — в танце, с широкой улыбкой и в объятиях Матье Блази. Вот и модный критик Ольга Михайловская согласна, что лучшего завершения fashion month не придумаешь — хотя речь в ее тексте совсем не об Одианг.
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