T

2017-й в моде: каким мы его запомним


Текст:
Соня Гома, Варя Баркалова


Расцвет diversity, скандалы с сексуальными домогательствами, проблемы модных медиа, а также плагиат и коллаборации.


I.

Смены дизайнеров



В 2017 году рокировки дизайнеров стали происходить еще чаще, чем раньше, — в Helmut Lang ежесезонная смена дизайнера вообще стала частью концепции. Эмоций перестановки вызывают все меньше. Разве что обидно бывает, когда перемены очевидно к худшему, как это произошло с Lanvin.



{"points":[{"id":22,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":24,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":23,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

Новый креативный директор в Guy Laroche

{"points":[{"id":1,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":3,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":2,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

Кристофер Бейли ушел из Burberry

{"points":[{"id":52,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":54,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":53,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

Бушра Жаррар ушла из Lanvin после 16 месяцев работы, 

{"points":[{"id":4,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":6,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":5,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

а новым креативным директором стал Оливье Лапидус

{"points":[{"id":7,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":9,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":8,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

Новым креативным директором Roberto Cavalli стал Пол Сарридж 

{"points":[{"id":13,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":15,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":14,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

Люк и Люси Мейер стали креативными директорами Jil Sander

{"points":[{"id":10,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":12,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":11,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

Клэр Уэйт Келлер ушла из Chloé 

{"points":[{"id":19,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":21,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":20,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

и стала креативным директором Givenchy,

{"points":[{"id":16,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":18,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":17,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

Знакомьтесь: 

Клэр Уэйт Келлер

после того как оттуда ушел Рикардо Тиши.

{"points":[{"id":25,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":27,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":26,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

Ее место в Chloé заняла Наташа Рамсей-Леви

{"points":[{"id":22,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":24,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":23,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

Helmut Lang перезапустился, креативного директора заменили на редактора-резидента, который приглашает каждый сезон нового дизайнера для работы над коллекцией. Первым редактором стала Изабелла Берли из Dazed & Confused, которая пригласила Оливера Шейна, а вот дебютная коллекция.

{"points":[{"id":28,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":30,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":29,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

Серж Руфье стал креативным директором Carven

{"points":[{"id":31,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":33,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":32,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

II.

Кого не стало в 2017-м




Аззедин Алайя

(26 февраля 1940 — 18 ноября 2017)

{"points":[{"id":1,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":3,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":0.35,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":2,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

Эрве Леру

(30 мая 1957 — 6 октября 2017)

{"points":[{"id":4,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":6,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":0.35,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":5,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

Пьер Берже

(14 ноября 1930 — 8 сентября 2017)

{"points":[{"id":10,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":12,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":0.35,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":11,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

Карла Фенди

(12 июля 1937 — 20 июня 2017)

{"points":[{"id":7,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":9,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":0.35,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":8,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

III.

Три громкие коллаборации 2017-го





{"points":[{"id":13,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":15,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":0,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":14,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":false}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

Gosha Rubchinskiy x Burberry

{"points":[{"id":55,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":57,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":56,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power0.easeNone","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}
{"points":[{"id":19,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":21,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":0.45,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":20,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}
{"points":[{"id":22,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":24,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":0.45,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":23,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

Off-White x IKEA

{"points":[{"id":16,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":18,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":0,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":17,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

Louis Vuitton x Supreme

{"points":[{"id":64,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":66,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":65,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power0.easeNone","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

IV.

Изменения в модных медиа






Индустрия модных СМИ продолжает переживать непростые времена. Печатные издания закрываются, оставляя только диджитал-версии, или меняют целые команды — как это произошло в Vogue UK, причем не без скандала. В диджитал тоже непросто. Сайты все жестче конкурируют с социальными сетями, а Style.com, амбициозный проект Condé Nast, который должен был объединить редакционные материалы и шопинг, потерпел провал: вместо него теперь Farfetch.




{"points":[{"id":43,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":45,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":0,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":44,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}
{"points":[{"id":40,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":42,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":0,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":41,"properties":{"duration":0.5,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

Закрылся российский печатный Women’s Health

{"points":[{"id":187,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":189,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":188,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

Закрылся печатный Teen Vogue 

{"points":[{"id":40,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":42,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":41,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

Александра Шульман покинула пост главреда Vogue UK после более чем 25 лет работы

{"points":[{"id":37,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":39,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":38,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

Ее место занял Эдвард Эннинфул

{"points":[{"id":34,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":36,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":35,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

Condé Nast закрыли несколько итальянских изданий: мужской журнал L’Uomo Vogue, журнал о детской моде Vogue Bambini, свадебный Vogue Sposa и журнал о часах и ювелирных украшениях Vogue Gioiello

{"points":[{"id":40,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":42,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":41,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

Закрылся Style.com

{"points":[{"id":43,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":45,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":44,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

и рассказала всю правду об увольнении и работе в Condé Nast независимому журналу Vestoj

{"points":[{"id":49,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":51,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":50,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

Люсинда Чемберс покинула Vogue UK

{"points":[{"id":46,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":48,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":47,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

V.

Расцвет Telegram-каналов о моде







Good morning, Karl! • автор — Катя Федорова, бывший редактор The Blueprint, Interview и Vogue.

{"points":[{"id":184,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":186,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":185,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}
{"points":[{"id":13,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":15,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":0,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":14,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

it's so last season • автор – Дарья Косарева, бывший редактор моды «Афиши», Glamour и Vogue

{"points":[{"id":187,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":189,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":188,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}
{"points":[{"id":10,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":12,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":0,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":11,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

«Кинокостюм для чайников»  автор – Анна Баштовая, художник по костюмам

{"points":[{"id":190,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":192,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":191,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}
{"points":[{"id":7,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":9,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":0,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":8,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

marxism-fashionism • автор – Ксения Обуховская, редактор моды Buro 24/7

{"points":[{"id":193,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":195,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":194,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}
{"points":[{"id":4,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":6,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":0,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":5,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

shoes&drinks • автор – Лиза Буйнова, дизайнер обуви и аксессуаров в Ann Demeulemeester

{"points":[{"id":196,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":198,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":197,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}
{"points":[{"id":1,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":3,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":0,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":2,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

VI.

Экология и этичное производство становятся все важнее








Yoox Net-a-Porter Group отказываются от продажи изделий из натурального меха 

{"points":[{"id":58,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":60,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":59,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

LVMH увеличат инвестиции в экологические проекты

{"points":[{"id":61,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":63,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":62,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

Gucci отказываются от использования натурального меха

{"points":[{"id":67,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":69,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":68,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

КАК МЕХ ПЕРЕСТАЛ БЫТЬ АБСОЛЮТНЫМ ЗЛОМ

VII.

ПЕРЕСТАНОВКИ В КАЛЕНДАРЕ НЕДЕЛЬ МОДЫ











Кто, где, какой сезон, мужской или женский показ? Все запутывается еще больше. Одни, как Versace, покидают кутюрную неделю, другие, как Schiaparelli, наоборот, возвращаются к кутюру. Бренды переносят показы из Лондона в Нью-Йорк (Tom Ford), из Нью-Йорка в Лондон (Tommy Hilfiger), все больше марок совмещают мужской и женский показы, на кутюрной неделе представляют прет-а-порте, а текущий сезон перед нами или следующий, уже не всегда помнят даже профессионалы.





VIII.

Награды 2017-го










Дизайнер Йоджи Ямамото получил награду за вклад в развитие моды 

{"points":[{"id":70,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":72,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":71,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

Дизайнер Дрис ван Нотен стал бароном

{"points":[{"id":73,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":75,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":74,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

ДОКУМЕНТАЛЬНЫЙ ФИЛЬМ «дрис»

Основатель Business of Fashion Имран Амед стал кавалером ордена Британской империи

{"points":[{"id":79,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":81,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":80,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

Главред Vogue US Анна Винтур стала дамой-командором ордена Британской империи 

{"points":[{"id":76,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":78,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":77,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}
{"points":[{"id":46,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":48,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":0,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":47,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

IX.

Жизель Бюндхен впервые за 15 лет лишилась статуса самой высокооплачиваемой в мире модели.











1










$22 млн

{"points":[{"id":25,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":27,"properties":{"x":-1,"y":54,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":26,"properties":{"duration":0.8,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":false}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

Кендалл Дженнер 

2









$17,5 млн

{"points":[{"id":25,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":27,"properties":{"x":-1,"y":53,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":26,"properties":{"duration":179,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":false}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

Жизель Бюндхен


3








$13,5 млн

{"points":[{"id":25,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":27,"properties":{"x":0,"y":25,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":26,"properties":{"duration":179,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":false}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

Крисси Тейген

4







$10,5 млн

{"points":[{"id":25,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":27,"properties":{"x":0,"y":57,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":26,"properties":{"duration":179,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":false}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

Адриана Лима

5






$9,5 млн

{"points":[{"id":25,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":27,"properties":{"x":0,"y":44,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":26,"properties":{"duration":179,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":false}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

Джиджи Хадид

X.

Торжество diversity









{"points":[{"id":34,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":36,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":0,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":35,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

Вышел календарь Pirelli с моделями африканского происхождения

{"points":[{"id":82,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":84,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":83,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

Condé Nast запустили LGBTQ-проект

{"points":[{"id":85,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":87,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":86,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

LVMH и Kering перестали сотрудничать со «слишком худыми» моделями

{"points":[{"id":88,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":90,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":89,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

Модель-трансгендер впервые появилась на обложке Vogue Paris

{"points":[{"id":91,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":93,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":92,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}
{"points":[{"id":37,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":39,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":0,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":38,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

Модель и ее сын с синдромом Дауна появились на обложке Vogue Netherlands

{"points":[{"id":97,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":99,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":98,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

Bezgraniz Couture продолжили показы коллекций для людей с ограниченными возможностями

{"points":[{"id":94,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":96,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":95,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

XI.

Открытия и закрытия магазинов










«КМ 20» открывается на новом месте

{"points":[{"id":100,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":102,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":101,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

Farfetch обещают открыть Store of the Future

{"points":[{"id":103,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":105,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":104,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}
{"points":[{"id":55,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":57,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":0,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":56,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

Podium Market закрывают все магазины, попутно задолжав поставщикам

{"points":[{"id":109,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":111,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":110,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

Colette закрывается

{"points":[{"id":106,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":108,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":107,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

XII.

Все учатся или учат











Condé Nast Italia открыли школу инфлюенсеров

{"points":[{"id":112,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":114,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":113,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

Основатель Off-White Вирджил Абло читает лекцию в Гарварде

{"points":[{"id":115,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":117,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":116,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}
{"points":[{"id":58,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":60,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":0,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":59,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

экс-редактора Vogue UK Люсинды Чемберс 

{"points":[{"id":118,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":120,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":119,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

Появились курсы дизайнера Марка Джейкобса, 

{"points":[{"id":121,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":123,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":122,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}
{"points":[{"id":61,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":63,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":0,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":62,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

В Москве собственные школы модной журналистики открывают экс-редактор Vogue Ольга Михайловская и журнал Numéro

{"points":[{"id":124,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":126,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":125,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

XIII.

Обвинения в плагиате












Без обвинений в копировании не проходит и дня — во многом шумихе способствует быстрое распространение информации через инстаграм. Обвиняют дизайнеров — от Рафа Симонса до Вики Газинской, бренды обвиняют друг друга, гиганту Zara достается от нишевых марок и иллюстраторов. Процветает остроумный инстаграм Diet Prada, специализирующийся на сюжетах про плагиат, — Gucci даже отдают анонимному создателю аккаунта свой инстаграм на время показа коллекции весна–лето 2018 в сентябре, и Diet Prada сразу рассказывает об источниках вдохновения креативного директора Алессандро Микеле.






{"points":[{"id":49,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":51,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":0,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":50,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

Рафа Симонса обвинили в плагиате

{"points":[{"id":127,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":129,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":128,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

Valentino подали в суд на Steve Madden

{"points":[{"id":130,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":132,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":131,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}
{"points":[{"id":52,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":54,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":0,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":53,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

Gucci обвинили в плагиате

Американский художник обвинил Vika Gazinskaya в плагиате

{"points":[{"id":133,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":135,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":134,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

1

{"points":[{"id":142,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":144,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":143,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

2

{"points":[{"id":139,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":141,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":140,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

3

{"points":[{"id":136,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":138,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":137,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

Saint Laurent обвинили в плагиате

{"points":[{"id":145,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":147,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":146,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

Лидер по обвинению в плагиате Diet Prada обвинил Ким Кардашьян

{"points":[{"id":148,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":150,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":149,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}
{"points":[{"id":64,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":66,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":0,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":65,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

XIV.

Новые маркетинговые ходы: котики, мемы и папарацци













Givenchy разыгрывали билеты на свой показ в объявлениях о пропаже кошки

{"points":[{"id":151,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":153,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":152,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

Vetements сделали фотовыставку на парковке вместо показа

{"points":[{"id":154,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":156,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":155,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}
{"points":[{"id":70,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":72,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":0,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":71,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

Тим Бленкс о Vetements

Бренды продолжают менять логотипы

{"points":[{"id":157,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":159,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":158,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

Yeezy собрали лукбук из фотографий Ким Кардашьян, сделанных папарацци

{"points":[{"id":160,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":162,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":161,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

Gucci выпустили мемы в качестве рекламной кампании 

{"points":[{"id":163,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":165,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":164,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}
{"points":[{"id":67,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":69,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":0,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":68,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

XV.

Скандалы с сексуальными домогательствами













5 октября 2017 года Харви Вайнштейна обвинили в сексуальных домогательствах. Все началось с актрисы Эшли Джадд, а затем о приставаниях со стороны продюсера рассказали еще несколько десятков женщин из модельного и шоу-бизнеса, в том числе Гвинет Пэлтроу, Леа Сейду и Кара Делевинь. После скандала продюсер потерял работу — его фактически изгнали из киноиндустрии. Этот пример вдохновил других жертв насилия поделиться своими историями — эффект Вайнштейна оказался сильнее, чем можно было предположить. Обвинениям подверглись почти тридцать человек: от Кевина Спейси и Бретта Рэтнера до Терри Ричардсона и Брюса Вебера.





{"points":[{"id":31,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":33,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":0,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":32,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

Фотографа Брюса Вебера обвинили в домогательствах

{"points":[{"id":166,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":168,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":167,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

Журнал Time объявил «Человеком года» женщин, которые решились заговорить о сексуальном насилии

{"points":[{"id":169,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":171,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":170,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

21 января прошел «Женский марш» против мизогинических взглядов Трампа. Журнал The New Yorker посвятил событию обложку

{"points":[{"id":172,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":174,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":173,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

Condé Nast объявили бойкот фотографу Терри Ричардсону,

{"points":[{"id":175,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":177,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":176,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

а потом к издательству присоединились марки Valentino и Bulgari,

{"points":[{"id":178,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":180,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":179,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

журнал The Wall Street Journal и издательский дом Hearst

{"points":[{"id":181,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1,"scaleY":1,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}},{"id":183,"properties":{"x":0,"y":0,"z":0,"opacity":1,"scaleX":1.05,"scaleY":1.05,"rotationX":0,"rotationY":0,"rotationZ":0}}],"steps":[{"id":182,"properties":{"duration":0.4,"delay":0,"bezier":[],"ease":"Power2.easeInOut","automatic_duration":true}}],"transform_origin":{"x":0.5,"y":0.5}}

За 2017 год изменилось многое. Дизайнеры больше не могут безнаказанно использовать, скажем, традиционный африканский орнамент — их обвинят в культурной апроприации. Или заимствовать идеи у других, ведь за брендами пристально следят аккаунты вроде Diet Prada, а претензии даже малоизвестных авторов быстро оказываются в информационном поле всего мира. Терри Ричардсона и до 2017 года не раз обвиняли в домогательствах, но бойкотировать фотографа решились только сейчас — побочный эффект скандала с участием Вайнштейна. За действия Дональда Трампа до сих пор достается его дочери Иванке Трамп: универмаги отказываются сотрудничать с ее маркой. На ход дел индустрии моды влияет все больше вещей, которые, казалось бы, не имеют к ней прямого отношения, а тайное становится явным быстрее, чем когда-либо еще. Многое меняется к лучшему, многое уходит навсегда — и одно понятно точно: индустрия уже никогда не будет прежней.



{"width":1200,"column_width":116,"columns_n":6,"gutter":100,"line":20}
false
767
1300
false
{"mode":"page","transition_type":"slide","transition_direction":"horizontal","transition_look":"belt","slides_form":{}}
{"css":".editor {font-family: tautz; font-size: 16px; font-weight: 400; line-height: 21px;}"}